Starving for air

I dunno that carby, but it just sounds rich to me - have ya checked the plug?

What year is the NE5 motor? There are several things that can be done. Depending on the year it may need to have the cam timing advanced one tooth. You should also open up the restrictor plate to match the opening of the intake on the cylinder. Don't just remove the restrictor plate because it is also a heat barrier that protects the fuel from boiling in the carb. I would set the needle in the carb in the middle groove and start from there. Also when you have the carb off check and see if the main jet is a #80 or close to it. By the sounds of it you may have a large main jet and this will make it impossible to set up the carb correctly. The large jet was a common problem in some years. Instructions on how to do these items have been posted many times and a simple search in this forum will yield the info you need to make it right.
If you don't find all the info you need just ask. We are here to help.

Jim

The carb is off a 2006. I have run this carb a bunch, and it ran fairly well when the engine was stock. Make sure you have the isolator and restrictor plates assembeled correctly with the gaskets. The gaskets that came with my bike were of too large a bore, and didnt fit the black plastic plate very well. I cut some of the proper size from gasket paper. Sounds like maybe you could have an air leak. Remember I included a new float needle valve, you might want to change it. The main jet was a #90 I believe. It has been soldered and drilled to an 85 as I remember. This carb ran 40+ mph on my modded engine, but always seemed rich on the top end.

Very good info cannonball. An 85 should work. I use an 86 if I remember correctly and it work fine for me. Changing the float and needle will only help. I'm wondering if the cam was ever advanced on that engine. Most NE5's benefited from this adjustment.

Jim

Hi joabthebugman,

Even if the fuel shutoff is defective the carburetor should not drip gasoline. This means you have carburetor issues for sure. The most common problem is the small passages in the carburetor are stopped up. I suggest adding 4 ounces of Gummout carburetor]fuel injection cleaner to approx 1/2 tank of gas. I know the bottle indicates a lot less, just add it as I suggest.

Sadly there were a lot of carburetors sold to fit the Whizzer motor, and about 95% were not correct to the motor. The bogus carburetors often can't be adapted to the motor without major expense [wrong cut in slide, wrong needle taper & length, wrong pilot jet, wrong main jet, etc,].

Please send information from the right side of the carburetor housing to aid in identifying the unit [IE Ken Tse, Kie Han, etc.]. You also need to measure the mouth of the carburetor to determine size, IE... 22MM, 26MM, 19MM, or 17.9MM.

The correct original carburetor normally sells for over $110, whereas the fakes are normally under $60.00.

If it is the correct carburetor the main jet WON'T be marked and can be either a 98, 90. Some of the later Whizzer units had an 88 main jet and some were marked [not many].

If the motor is upgraded the normal main jet should be either a 84, 85, or 86 main jet, the 88 or larger is always too rich. If the motor is basically a stock NE the main jet should be as little as an 80.

You can resize the main jet, however replacements are still available if needed.

As Jim mentioned, you should check the camshaft setting [one tooth advanced], and also check for lifter wear [if not equiped with mushroom lifters] and make sure the clearance is set correctly. Factory clearance settings are .009" on both lifters. On modified motors the setting should be .006" intake and .008" on the exhaust.


Have fun,