Playing With Some Designs

Really a nicely laid out bike!

I'm still unsure why two hubs though? Unless you are trying to climb something like a mountain goat/AWD? Doubles the needs/weight of everything with out adding much in the way of speed if that's important.

Of course we all just want to do something to see how it works out, that's the cool part about this hobby! Not trying to dissuade you just asking questions.

You are out of scale for your battery size, you need one much larger for that power.

What voltage/wattage hubs?

Your frame resembles the "Schwinn Heavy Duty" that I see on craigslist occasionally.
The Schwinn Heavy Duty frame with a layback seat post could come very close to duplicating the riding position in your composition.

magwa said:

...Dual 1000W set up with some sturdy lipos in the padded, reinforced and hinged carrier
between the two frame rails. All in a low-seat frame.

Click to expand...

~1KW is a good range for powering an MB on par with a 2-stroke direct drive.

But that dual 1KW must be the controllers max.
Watts= Voltage * Current.
To deliver you need a battery capable of 20 AH of current.

magwa said:

No REAL GOOD logistical reasons for the two hubs. Except I weigh too much.

The next reason for the two is symmetry of design...or maybe that changes places with,
"wonder how it will work out", as you suggest.

Click to expand...

Larger mass takes more force to get it going, but once it's going it doesn't take much keep it going, it's using all the force wisely before you need to exert opposite force (braking) to stop it.

The problem I have with 2 wheel drive systems on an MB come from my 4-wheel days, if your drive wheels grip you don't need it.

Now I can see a front e-hub being a fantastic boost to direct drive 2-strokes to do the pedaling work to start it, but you still have 2 throttles.
That is not as easy as 2 brakes.

magwa said:

I was going with the 100W/48v set up (and same battery set up) have on the other bike now.

Click to expand...

Typo?
1,000 Watts right?
A 48V 100W only draws 4.8 amps, that's barley enough for a good lighting system.

Batteries have 2 Amp numbers.
The amps it can put out consistently for an hour, AH.
And Max sustained Amps it can put out regardless of time.

If a 50V battery has a 25 Amp Max draw ability that = 1250 Watts.

If that battery can only sustain 50V for an hour at 10 Amps in an Hour (10AH) you get a 500W battery that will last an hour.

If you draw the whole 25A @ 50V , the battery Watt rating, the battery only lasts about 20 minutes.

KC, you are correct. Those batteries require 7.5" length along a frame tube.... which allows for wiring,
in the 2.5" height and 3.5 in width.

Once again, logistics trump design.

I think those batteries will stick out too far from the seat rail/front down rail in that frame configuration.

The design is just a writing down of my initial thoughts.
They get lost so easily, you know.

In fact, as you point out, the scale of the first design is way off.

Click to expand...

Yes indeed I know how much it sucks when you draw it all out and have it simply not be possible when you get to 'making it go'.

That is nothing to concern yourself with, invention usually comes with many failed attempts first.

Amp Hours is what you need to pay attention to for the size of the battery you need to sustain the power in Watts above that, bigger batteries.