Brake Light?

GoldenMotor.com

Tool Maker

New Member
Oct 28, 2012
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Las Vegas, NV
After reviewing the Nevada statutes it seems I need a brake or "stop" light as they call it.

Apparently a fairly powerful one at that:

NRS 484D.125 Stop lamps
" (b) Display a red, amber or yellow light visible from a distance of not less than 300 feet to the rear in normal sunlight"

So is there something off the shelf you folks are using? Or am I going to have to build something new?

No other lights are required for daytime operation, but 2 mirrors of 7 square inches each are required.

Any suggestions?

B.
 

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
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San Diego, Kaliforgnia
I modified my brake levers to accommodate switches from Radio Shack.
Here is a link to the instructables I roughly followed to convert the levers:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Add-a-brake-light-switch-to-a-bicycle-brake-lever/

For the taillight I used a scrap motorcycle turn signal that uses a dual filament bulb.
I used a 6 volt LED bulb http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ulbs/1157-led-bulb-dual-intensity-19-led/508/

I made a 4 "D" cell battery holder for 6 volt output. It also powers my headlight too.
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
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Lebanon, PA
Similar to gearnut, I also use an old motorcycle turn signal as a brake light, currently with an led bulb and 6v output, but soon upgrading to 7.2v.
 

MitchP

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Oct 6, 2012
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Santa Rosa, CA
Try a kind of circuit placed on the V brake that is complete when the brake is squeezed. it's the principle behind my cheap-tacular Light 2000.
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
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Lebanon, PA
I only had a second to post on this subject before, but I would like to take the time now to explain how my brake light is activated. It is a very simple setup, and didnt cost me very much at all. As I said before, I do have an old motorcycle turn signal. The body of the light is metal, and therefore grounded when bolted to my luggage rack. The light has one wire attached to it, and I connected this wire to the lead wire on my battery. I then attached a longer wire to the battery's ground wire, and ran the longer wire up to my clutch lever (I know this sounds a little strange, but I cant attach the wire to my actual brake lever). When the cheap allen bolt that is supposed to clamp my clutch lever got stripped out, I drilled a hole all the way through and used a quick release skewer with a partially broken release lever to clamp the clutch handle. So I attached the ground wire from the battery to the clutch lever so that when I squeeze the clutch lever all the way in, the end of the wire makes contact with the quick release skewer, grounding the battery to the frame and closing the circuit and thereby activating my brake light. I can still lock the clutch lever in place without the ground wire making contact with the frame. I know this may sound a bit complicated when reading it, but it is actually quite simple, and I hope it gives you an idea you can use.
 

Tool Maker

New Member
Oct 28, 2012
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Las Vegas, NV
Thanks for all the replies guys.

It is clear that there is no single "go to" light for this with the MB crowd. Looks like I am making more parts, this project keep complicating the simple...

I have a few Cree 2w red LED's kicking around, as well as some decent lenses. I guess I need to test a few on the sidewalk for that 300 foot range in the daytime.

Since I would like to ride this unit to work, I need to make sure it will stand up to at least casual inspection - I pass the main yard for the Highway Patrol every day. No sense blowing in to the anthill. At least in NV it is pretty clear what the rules are.

I am planning on a 4 stroke, so no "white wire", and I would rather not be jacking around with a lot of battery that needs a charge. I seem to spend an average of 8 minutes a day stopped according to my GPS, round trip to work.

That means about 15 days worth of brake lights from a single 18650 battery, so I would be swapping a charged battery every two weeks. I can live with that. Hopefully the Cree LED with a 30 degree lens is easy to see from 300 feet.

I will update when I know more.

Thanks.

B.
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
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Lebanon, PA
I dont yet know how long a charge will last with my 7.2v brake light, but when I was running it 6v, I didnt change the batteries for months. In fact, I only changed the batteries once in about 6 months, and the batteries still worked before I changed them. I changed them anyway, because I didnt properly waterproof the battery pack, and it got wet. I knew that corrosion would be an issue eventually, so I took it apart, cleaned it, and installed fresh batteries. LED's do not draw much current to begin with, and a brake light is only on when you are stopping, so the batteries you use may just last you longer than you think. You said you spend 8 minutes a day stopped, but your brake light doesnt need to be on the entire time you are stopped, only WHILE you are coming to a stop. I dont think you will spend 8 minutes a day coming to a stop, unless you drive very far.
 

BikeMan2

New Member
May 23, 2016
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IL
Ok I see that this is an old thread but just to try to help this is what I done for brake lights and turn signals I bought 30cm/15LED SMD 3528 Red Flexible Led Strip Light Waterproof DC 12V and then bought a Universal Motorcycle Bike Quad Pit Scooter ATV Tail Rear Brake Stop Light Switch they work great and the best you can make for the money. For my turn signals I bought 4x 30cm 15LED SMD 3528 Yellow Flexible Led Strip Light Waterproof DC12V then I bought Motorcycle triple combination turn signal switch horn headlight switch for 7/8 Bars and a 3 Pin CF13 Car Flasher Relay to Fix LED Light Blink Flash. That made up my blinkers I run them off of 8X AA DIY Battery Holder that and my relay is in a Plastic Electronics Enclosure or Project Box 4x3x1.6 in that is mounted to my Rear rack. All items can be bought on Ebay real cheap
 
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Peejus

New Member
Jul 8, 2016
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Virginia
Im working on a self contained 12v lighting system.

So, a 12v jell cell and off the shelf automotive/motercycle lighting equipment.

Now.. to the purpose of the the thread, im working on a LED brake light that uses a $7 harbor freight submersible trailer indicator lamp.
The circuit is very simple.. two 4005 diodes, and a 550 1/2 watt resistor.
Activating the brake light function is accomplished with a roller blade switch.
So... take banded sides of the diodes and pig tail them. On one side of them, tie in the resistor, and from there the positive side of the battery.
Hook up the negative side and the lamp should light up at half voltage.

Now.. on the other diode, run that through the N.O. side of the switch. And hook up the common side of the switch back to the common hot wire.

When you press the switch, the lamp will get supplied with full voltage and will be fully illuminated.
 

CroMagnum

Member
Sep 2, 2011
148
1
16
Los Angeles
Since we're updating old threads - so old that the aforementioned Radio Shack stores don't exist any more - I just thought I'd add my own solution to the brake light switch problem.

E-bikes use a brake lever that closes a switch to let the controller know you're hitting the brakes so it can cut power to the motor and engage regenerative braking. But they also make dandy brake light switches for gas bikes. And they're surprisingly inexpensive.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-of-Un...levers-quick-shipping-from-Texas/152600097450

For $3.50 each it's not worth trying to fabricate something from scratch. Thereby proving once again that I'm both cheap and lazy. :D
 
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ZipTie

Active Member
Jan 8, 2016
750
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Mpls Mn
Cromagnum , Don't the ebike brake handles break the circuit VS completing it. Just confused on how they would work. Would love more details. Great suggestion and look forward to more details on this method. Electric wiring is not my strongest skill. Thanks in advance
 

CroMagnum

Member
Sep 2, 2011
148
1
16
Los Angeles
Cromagnum , Don't the ebike brake handles break the circuit VS completing it. Just confused on how they would work. Would love more details. Great suggestion and look forward to more details on this method. Electric wiring is not my strongest skill. Thanks in advance

Just to make sure I wasn't confused (it's been known to happen on occasion ;)) I pulled out my meter and one of the brake levers to check. With the lever out, the switch is open (infinite ohms). When you pull the lever in (like you're hitting the brakes) the switch closes and my Fluke 87 goes "beep." So it should work just fine as a brake light switch. Just wire it in series with your brake light and battery and you're good to go.

So don't struggle with trying to fabricate a brake light switch. Someone has already done that for you and is selling them cheap!
 

ZipTie

Active Member
Jan 8, 2016
750
82
28
Mpls Mn
Thanks a ton, This all sounds great. this info should be separate and on a sticky, I have 4 of these ebike handles in my electric junk bin so I am going to install a bright working brake light on one of my builds. Too bad they do not make a long handled - double pull ebike brake handle...now that would be a dream part for the motorized bike industry. Also odd someone doesn't put a proper complete Bright brake light kit using these handles. The little cable activated brake lights are better than nothing, but the 1 LED they have does not do much in sunlight. Thanks again CroMagnum for the idea and info.