Schwinn Clairmont Cruiser Bike size question

2door said:

Here's some reading for you > http://motorbicycling.com/f6/motorized-bicycle-oversized-tubing-solved-6427.html
Good luck.
Tom

Click to expand...

Thanks Tom, came across that thread; that's where I found the link to the adapter I ended up ordering. Bummed to have to wait to get the bike built but oh well, better than the motor falling off...

I just finished my build this past weekend. I installed the shift kit from sick bike parts. As this was my first build I'm kind of underwhelmed with the power. Wish I could of gotten the 80 CC kit but Illinoisput the kabosh on that idea. The brakes seem to be the worst part of the bike but I think its the dual lever I got so I may go back to 2 levers.

also another problem I ran into is the throttle seems to be stuck wide open. So when I twist the throttle it has no effect on the engine. Oh well, just needs to do a little more tinkering. I will be posting pics soon.

By any chance does anyone know where I could get the decals that come on these bikes? I want to put that clairmont decal on the tank so it doesn't look so plain.

Got the motor mount (very quickly!) from SBP and it's looking good.

It looks like I'll have to cut out some of the rear fender for the chain to clear though. Looking at LincolnMercury's pictures it looks like he did the same, but, for anyone else considering this bike know you'll have to do some modification there.

I'm a bit curious as to the best way to pull off the brakes/stock shifter/clutch handles.

Stock, the bike has a break lever on each side and a shifter on the right (the handle cover on the right is shorter to accommodate the shifter).

For the kit, I'll need to be able to replace the handle cover on the right with the one from the kit that controls the gas. This handle is full-sized, so I'd have to move the current shifter and brake lever towards the center of the handle bars.

On the left, I'll need to be able to add the clutch lever.

I see some people have gone with a dual-cable brake lever, so I'd be able to get rid of one of the levers that way, but what about the stock shifter? Any good way to pull that off?

What I did was move the shifter to the left side between the clutch lever and the grip. It works fairly well but u gotta watch shifting when u pull on the clutch. Its kind of a handfull so it takes a little getting used to. The numbers are upside down too but it whatever though. Haha. I think a lever would be kinda cool. Kinda like a suicide shifter.

The brakes have waaaaaay too much cord. About 2 feet just from eyeball measuring. I think I want to upgrade to discs soon when I get some spare cash I can throw at it.

The trickiest part of the whole thing I think is that u have to take the stock single piece crank and make it a 3 piece. That involves grinding the tube somewhere in the ballpark of a half inch.

Oh, and just a heads up, you may have to bend the exhaust a Tad to clear the frame.

Thanks for the reply, Hamster. Wanna make sure I get what you're saying so I know what I'm in for:

hamstermobile said:

What I did was move the shifter to the left side between the clutch lever and the grip. It works fairly well but u gotta watch shifting when u pull on the clutch. Its kind of a handfull so it takes a little getting used to. The numbers are upside down too but it whatever though. Haha. I think a lever would be kinda cool. Kinda like a suicide shifter.

Click to expand...

Seems like a good idea to try moving the shifter to the left with the clutch. Did you get rid of the separate left brake lever and use a double lever for both brakes on the right instead?

The brakes have waaaaaay too much cord. About 2 feet just from eyeball measuring. I think I want to upgrade to discs soon when I get some spare cash I can throw at it.

The trickiest part of the whole thing I think is that u have to take the stock single piece crank and make it a 3 piece. That involves grinding the tube somewhere in the ballpark of a half inch.

Click to expand...

Is this only for disc brakes you're talking about?

Oh, and just a heads up, you may have to bend the exhaust a Tad to clear the frame.

Click to expand...

Bummer, haven't tried the exhaust yet to see how it fits, hopefully I get lucky...

Yes I went with a double lever for the brakes. It was the one that was included in the sbp kit. Its the wrong kind of lever though. These bikes have cantilever brakes and have to be pulled farther and the lever is made with a short pull.

Concerning shortening the crank bearing tube and going from one piece crank to 3piece, that was because of the sbp shift kit again. They include a crank bearing with a freewheel on it. That's so that u don't have to move your feet when the engine is doing its thing.

As for the exhaust, I had 2 engine kits. One with black EPA approved and one with a chrome version, neither would fit. I'd be interested to see if the poopoo pipe has a different angle on the mounting flange.

hamstermobile said:

I just finished my build this past weekend. I installed the shift kit from sick bike parts. As this was my first build I'm kind of underwhelmed with the power. Wish I could of gotten the 80 CC kit but Illinoisput the kabosh on that idea. The brakes seem to be the worst part of the bike but I think its the dual lever I got so I may go back to 2 levers.

also another problem I ran into is the throttle seems to be stuck wide open. So when I twist the throttle it has no effect on the engine. Oh well, just needs to do a little more tinkering. I will be posting pics soon.

By any chance does anyone know where I could get the decals that come on these bikes? I want to put that clairmont decal on the tank so it doesn't look so plain.

Click to expand...

ok sounds like you need to unscrew your carb cable where it goes into the carb and and turn it 180 degrees and put it back in.or your getting too much air(air leak).or you need to lower the clip on the needle.or,you cable is to tight.go with the duel brake lever(there are several dif ones out there)put your shifter on the left or get a thumb shifter.thats my advice,good luck.that bike looks like a very good choice to me.should make a great ride

I noticed that the kit I ordered has the ring for the front motor mount, but not
the silver spacer. I will have to buy a MUFFLER CLAMP to get that silver
flat, half curved spacer washer. I would not mount the motor without it, as it would, or could bend the studs due to uneven loading. It would keep the bolts and pressure square as you tourqued up.
Just ordered my engine kit from ducativv on EBAY, he was, WAS having .99 cent opening bid auctions. But he seemsto have wound them down a few days ago. Won a black engine kit for 115$!!!

Will update with photos and issues etc as I go!!!


This guy has the brake and clutch set up the way I'm gonna do it. Won't
need the dual brake lever. Look at the handlebars, very well set up!!
GAS BIKE GRUBBE 66cc - YouTube

Issue 1, the mount supplied won't work. Bought a 1 1/2 inch muffler clamp.
That fit around fine, but did not match the mounting plate(too wide).
Bought a 1 1/4 inch muffler clamp. Was tight. Bent it up so it fit around
the downtube, then it would not fit into the muffler clamp washer. Also that
part did not fit around tube and would need alot of filing. SOOO

SICK BIKE PARTS!! TO THE RESCUE

Bought the kit, nice its reversible, they only show it mounted one
way on the site, you have to look at the instruction manual to see
it reversed. Nice!! I would have made my own, but all my stuff is packed away, and hand sawing 1/4 inch steel. Easy if you have metal saw and drill press. I don't

I got bolts to replace the engine mount studs. I have heard differing opinions
about using them. Could not find studs at ACE. But did not ask if they had them. Will have to hunt some more for those. Definitely don't want stock
studs there!!!

More as it happens.....

I just built a Clairmont with an EZ Motorbike kit. I had issues with the 4 stroke motor mount and built my own. One of the first things I noticed was how spongy and difficult to adjust the brakes were. I compared them to regular mountain bike v brakes and noticed the arms were longer. This causes them to need more cable pull to properly activate the brakes which the mountain levers do not have. I replaced them with standard v brakes and they stop much better. In addition, the rims are painted on the sides which caused the brake pads to wear prematurely and degraded the braking performance. These brakes are not designed for painted rims. I strongly advise removing the paint on the braking surface. A wire wheel works well.

I also replaced the fender struts with 1/2" x 1/8" steel bar that I formed by bending around a holesaw blade, way stronger than that thin metal they used. While I was at it I made new longer L brackets out of the same steel bar which brought the fender closer to the rim which allowed me to use the new v brakes.. I also replaced the fender struts with 3/4" x 1/8" steel bar. After these modifications it is a solid bike for motorizing. I love how it turned out. Here's my thread.

http://motorbicycling.com/f41/2nd-build-schwinn-clairmont-ez-motorbike-35873.html

Abikerider. The stock brakes are garbage. Update your brakes to

Kool Stop Eagle 2 threaded cantilever SALMON brake pads (760251001439) | eBay

They do not streak on the rims!!! They are best brake pads for bikes!!
Have fun cleaning off the black grunge!! If you have wire brushed the paint off
sorry I responded so late.

The do not streak on my painted rims, tho I needed to spray some wd40 on them as the brakes sqealed as loud as a trucks air brakes!!! did that and quiet now, no color streaks!!!