How do I fix this?!

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SubieGuy

New Member
Sep 3, 2012
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Canada
Hello,

I've had my build finished for about 2 months now, but it still needs some small things worked out. Which brings my to my question:

How do I fix this gap between the front motor mount and the frame?
Only about a third of the mount is contacting the frame (around the piece of rubber inner tube)

The bike has a sbp shift kit installed as well
It hasn't been an issue yet, but probably will be in the future!
 

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maniac57

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
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memphis Tn
SubieGuy said:
Hello,

I've had my build finished for about 2 months now, but it still needs some small things worked out. Which brings my to my question:

How do I fix this gap between the front motor mount and the frame?
Only about a third of the mount is contacting the frame (around the piece of rubber inner tube)

The bike has a sbp shift kit installed as well
It hasn't been an issue yet, but probably will be in the future!
Click to expand...
As long as it's tight you shouldn't have a problem. If it bothers you, it can be fixed by adjusting the angle of the engine with the rear mount. I cannot say how this would affect your shift kit since it does affect chain length on a non-shift kit installation.
I'd leave it alone if it were mine unless there is some sort of issue from it. Just my opinion...
 
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SubieGuy

New Member
Sep 3, 2012
39
0
0
Canada
Maybe I will leave it as is. I've played around with it, moving it around, and this is the best I can get it.

It's got the other 2 mounts on the seatpost that make 100% contact.

I was wondering if the sbp universal engine mount for oversized tubes would help - I can't see how it would make a difference though.
 
maniac57

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
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Maybe you might make a new plate for it that is bent to conform to the tube shape? It would increase surface contact.
I still don't think it's an issue though...
 
BarelyAWake

BarelyAWake

New Member
Jul 21, 2009
7,194
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Maine
maniac57 said:
Maybe you might make a new plate for it that is bent to conform to the tube shape? It would increase surface contact.
I still don't think it's an issue though...
Click to expand...
As the SBP shiftkit needs be raised/lowered to adjust the secondary chain tension (jackshaft to pedal chainrings), this repositions both the rear clamps and the front mount somewhat frequently, which can lead to long-term wear, even inadvertent crimping of the frame tubing in the attempt to insure no further movement.

While it isn't particularly necessary if caution is used, I've found this minor modification alleviates any concern of over-torquing/crimping the tubing and even reduces the cosmetic paint damage on a build that's used frequently due to the maintenance entailed.

The clamps need to be one size over (minor as they're commonly available pipe clamps), but just taking a section of pipe or thick wall tubing and cutting sections in half to fit, then inserting them between the clamp and the bike's frame pretty much resolves the issue for good (tack welding them to the clamps is optional);

 
george_n_texas

george_n_texas

Member
Sep 4, 2009
980
4
18
62
Texas
I use black RTV on my mounts even when they fit tight kinda takes the vibration out...loosen it up so as to make slightly bigger gap let er almost comepletely dry then samitch it together. RTV seems to have about the same hardness as most motor mounts I've seen.
 
S

SubieGuy

New Member
Sep 3, 2012
39
0
0
Canada
BarelyAWake said:
As the SBP shiftkit needs be raised/lowered to adjust the secondary chain tension (jackshaft to pedal chainrings), this repositions both the rear clamps and the front mount somewhat frequently, which can lead to long-term wear, even inadvertent crimping of the frame tubing in the attempt to insure no further movement.

While it isn't particularly necessary if caution is used, I've found this minor modification alleviates any concern of over-torquing/crimping the tubing and even reduces the cosmetic paint damage on a build that's used frequently due to the maintenance entailed.

The clamps need to be one size over (minor as they're commonly available pipe clamps), but just taking a section of pipe or thick wall tubing and cutting sections in half to fit, then inserting them between the clamp and the bike's frame pretty much resolves the issue for good (tack welding them to the clamps is optional);

Click to expand...
This is a good idea, I think I'll do this in the near future!

George, that's an alternative I had not thought about before, thanks.
 
maniac57

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
22
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memphis Tn
Great tip BarelyAwake. I'm doing an Onyx 29'er this weekend and will use your tip with great relief on it's aluminum frame to prvent wear. Kudos!
 
maniac57

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
22
0
memphis Tn
BarelyAWake said:
As the SBP shiftkit needs be raised/lowered to adjust the secondary chain tension (jackshaft to pedal chainrings), this repositions both the rear clamps and the front mount somewhat frequently, which can lead to long-term wear, even inadvertent crimping of the frame tubing in the attempt to insure no further movement.

While it isn't particularly necessary if caution is used, I've found this minor modification alleviates any concern of over-torquing/crimping the tubing and even reduces the cosmetic paint damage on a build that's used frequently due to the maintenance entailed.

The clamps need to be one size over (minor as they're commonly available pipe clamps), but just taking a section of pipe or thick wall tubing and cutting sections in half to fit, then inserting them between the clamp and the bike's frame pretty much resolves the issue for good (tack welding them to the clamps is optional);

Click to expand...
Great tip! I'll use this on my current build, an Onyx 29'er. I like the way your idea will spread out the loads on the aluminum tubing. Thanks!
 
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