Huffy Alpha Raider

Very very nice. I have built 20+ Cranbrook s and love to motorize them. Keep the pics coming with the shift kit. And please brace or remove that fender, they have seriously hurt some people.

Bummer on the shipping damage, you could get all that out with body mallets I'm sure. It looks like it would be tough not to damage the paint though. I'm anxious to see the shift kit on your Cranbrook and see the chain angles. Keep the pics coming you have an awesome bike coming together.

Could make a mold out of bondo,coat the fender with vaseline, or wrap with saran wrap. Build it up with bondo, let dry and them take it off use it to beat the dents on................Curt

Bike is looking awesome!!! The stock CDI is as good or better than all the aftermarket, look at all the racers and what they use. The stock boot and wire are pretty bad and need to be replaced with good parts though. The factory ignition timing is too advanced and not adjustable, there is power to be had in filing the notch in the magnet to retard the ignition there. Your bike just flat out looks great, truly one of my favorites. The dual brake lever will be amazing with your set up also, I was against them and had to try one and have to eat my words they work great in this application. Do a lot of reading on here for power, every bolt on made won't make half the power as a motor with all stock parts and a ported cylinder and ramped piston. I hit 43mph on the GPS with all stock parts and port and piston work on that identical Cranbrook with a 44 tooth sprocket. If you decide to do it yourself there are a few good write UPS on here and I'll be glad to help.

Do you have pics of the carbs? The member on here with the username Davezilla has found about the only aftermarket carb that will out perform a stock one on these motors. If you can, find him on here and read thru some of his posts and it should be easy to find. If you look in my pics of my old green Caraci that clone carb is the only one that works ok but not great. The reason I worked with it so much is I was able to flow enough thru it to make the nitro/methanol system work with the Briggs fuel pump. I did start to fight it leaking around the bowl with the pump feeding though. I am pulling it out of retirement to use as the secondary carb on my dual carb set up though since it is already set for nitro. I am hoping that in the secondary position as a power adder it won't need to be fed by the pump and the manifold design will pull enough thru to work.
It would be a good idea to pick up an extra magnet if you want to file one. The direction to retard the timing would be filing the notch further to the left as your looking at it with the cover off on the left side of the bike. Picture the magnet being behind where the factory set the notch in the rotation of the motor. Just a tiny bit at a time because in this spot just a tenth of a millimeter is a lot of rotation and we only want around a degree to be safe. You could potentially take a spare magnet and keep filing and testing, you will feel it get better, then worse and then you know how far to take the second magnet for the sweet spot on your motor. I realize this is far less than good science but if we line up ten of the best of these motors they will react differently so it's a bit of trial and error to get the absolute most from them.
I am curios if you really need to re jet the N/T carb, usually they seem quite rich out of the box but once you have some break in and the needle set lower it should be actually close and combined with the VooDoo pipe you should be able to get rid of most of the 4 stroking especially mixing at 32 to 1.
I am shopping for good copper core 7mm wire by the foor and have not found anything I like. Don's hot rod shop and many online vendors have boots that will work well. I have actually been making the most power with the 3 prong kit spark plug and now have at least one or two NGK's that I am not sure what I will do with.
Last thoughts on carbs for now, try to find that carb Davezilla recommends and remember the smaller the bore the better the velocity. Think, small carb= throttle responce and seat of the pants power, larger carb= more flow capacity at high revs but less velocity and less fuel atomization.
Lee

See if this will help....................Curt

http://motoredbikes.com/threads/nt-carb-tuning-basics.24867/

This bike pulls hard from off the line all the way to a top speed of just over 45mph on a 44 tooth sprocket I built it for a 270lb physical trainer. It has the stock NT carb with the filter housing opened up a bit and a port matched but un modified VooDoo pipe just like yours. It does have an extensively ported cylinder and ramped and drilled piston. I don't think the carb/pipe combo is a problem on your motor, one thing is they need miles put on them before they can really be tuned in a lot of cases. You will really be casing your tail swapping carbs and parts around for the first few hundred miles. I have that same aftermarket carb and it can make a touch more top speed but at the cost of throttle response in a lot of cases. It's not a bad little carb at all just a bit more tricky to tune, the moped guys really have that one figured out and is where I learned to tune it.



Very similar set up to yours and the NT carb is great on it.

Maybe check this out, only way to have tunability without all the hassle...........Curt

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=56857

Sorry we got too complex in our answers. These motors have to get a few hundred miles on them to be consistent and it's tough to describe and get thru to a lot of people new to these motors. It's actually worse if your new to this but are an otherwise experienced mechanic because some of the things with these bike kit motors are very counter intuitive. See here I go again ha ha. Awesome to hear that you got it running good! Now go have fun!