Ghost racer 7g kit help?

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Aceinthesky

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Nov 9, 2014
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Pearland, TX
KCvale said:
The GT2 4-stroke frame is not the best for the 4-stroke, I think the 2-stroke one with the pedestal would be better as it has an S downtube not a straight one.

You have almost no room in the cavity and the tank output is right at the seat post.





Just something to keep in mind.

As far as dropping $80 on a hub mount direct drive sprocket consider a jackshaft and 3-speed hub.

I got that matching wheelset on-line for ~$140 delivered and that bike just flat rocked as a commuter.

Anyway, you have lots of work ahead of you and I wish you the best luck.
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Hey kc, I have been working in the bike and got most of the shift kit installed. Why do you use a tensioner on the shift kit, the instructions say to Adjust the chain by moving the motor mount and motor around. I'm wondering if I need to buy a tensioner.
 
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Aceinthesky

New Member
Nov 9, 2014
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Pearland, TX
finally got around to installing my 7g kit, and i found that the copper bushing was broken on the outside. it does not seem to affect function, do you guys think its safe to use it like that?

im also including a pic of my build. got most of my ideas from members on here.
 

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KCvale

KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
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I responded to your post about the bushing, it should be OK, just grease the thing well and don't get your belt too tight.

Aceinthesky said:
Why do you use a tensioner on the shift kit?
the instructions say to Adjust the chain by moving the motor mount and motor around.
I'm wondering if I need to buy a tensioner.
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I had the other frame and moving the engine base up was not an option, you have wider S downtube so you can but it's a pain in the butt.

Just moving the engine forward for the left side is easy, moving the whole mount up for the right is another story.

On the right side of the JS U mount there is a slot.
It makes for nice place to put a both through.

I just use what's around, a sprocket from an old derailleur, a piece of stock for an arm, and washers and spacers to get it where it needs to go and either tighten it down to the base for an easy adjustment or let it pivot and attach a spring by making a little grove under the sprocket for a spring to hook on.

Up to you, just keep in mind the forward side is the slack side, don't try to put a tensioner on the rear drive side.
 
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radaracer285

New Member
Oct 13, 2014
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michigan
4 strokes need a small tach. Pushing past the power peak of 6800 rpms doesnt do any good and running this little engine beyond 6800 is not good. The top speed of mine is around 22 MPH @ 6800 RPM, which is plenty fast. Cruising at 19 to 20 MPH is perfect.

A small fun fact is that it only takes 5 HP to run 120 MPH and that is to over come wind resistance.
 
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radaracer285

New Member
Oct 13, 2014
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michigan
I got a real tensioner with an actual spring. The stock one only applies tension until the chain loosens up. If the chain is too tight, the stock tensioner can push the thing down in the slot or worse can turn into the spokes. The new tensioner has a sprocket which also acts as a kind of chain guide. I had to get 1 inch u bolts and cut them... Pain in the @ss, but it works good

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271721612328

A number 41 (2300 tensile strength) chain will work, but the pins are smaller making it move around on the sprockets and increasing sprocket wear. A high quality 415 chain is 3700 tensile strength compared to a stock 415 chain which is 1600 tensile strength.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171189574199
 

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