Alternative Fuel/Drive Motorization?

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motorizemyride

New Member
Jan 14, 2013
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Green Bay, WI
Hi all,

I'm looking into building my very first motorized bike, but before I commit to simply slapping a gas engine - kit or otherwise - onto a bicycle I've decided to consider alternate systems. I figure that since I'm going to be putting some DIY effort into this thing I might as well make it interesting so long as performance isn't going to suffer too badly. Obviously I'm not quite at the design stage and am just looking to brainstorm. Basically I'd like to know what my options are within my technical requirements.

First off, I'd like the bike to go a minimum of 30mph. The faster the maximum speed the better up to the point where it causes control issues, but the bike can't be a wimp. I don't mind if it has to warm up before optimal efficiency, but it should be able to reach 30mph within 15 minutes of starting. I am not averse to having to prime a system before or during riding, or changing fuel supplies on-the-fly if the system is designed for it, but weight is a consideration as the bike needs to remain light enough to be a pedaled for practical distances in the event that I run out of fuel. When it comes to range, I'd like to carry no more than 10 pounds of fuel and be able to travel 50 miles with it.

Let's get creative! Something tells me that precious little other than gasoline is going to meet these requirements, but if nothing else some of these ideas may make for good discussion among the chemistry and engineering inclined.

One of my first ideas was to harness a vinegar-baking soda reaction because basically I can get them both for free. The reaction produces CO2 and water, meaning there's a great deal of expansive force much in the same fashion as steam and can thus be used to drive a piston. I'm not aware of the full scope of technical abilities/limitations this system possesses or if it matches up to what I need... there aren't many google results for "vinegar powered engine". I realize I'd have to custom-build something but would like to get some kind of idea what to expect for performance first. I also began to examine steam engine bicycles and saw some interesting stuff, but I don't know if it can be modified to fit my needs. Obviously there are numerous ways to create heat through not only combustion but also chemical reaction.

Sugar is another possible high-energy fuel source I have access to for cheap - the question is how to extract energy from it in a fashion practical for my needs... might I be able to refine usable amounts of alcohol? Hydrogen would be a great fuel but has key drawbacks such as embrittlement of engine parts, storage difficulty, and extreme volatility; a relatively safer thing to work with is methane. On the plus side it can be extracted via the composting process, but on the downside it's not the easiest to get fuel other than what you bring with you.

There are some interesting diesel engines out there, and I like the idea of being able to use vegetable oil for fuel in a pinch, but at small sizes they tend to have considerably short lifespans in relation to price. Unless I'm missing something there's really little reason to choose diesel over gasoline considering the size of the application.

The last of my ideas is a "bow drive" which would operate by storing kinetic energy in a flexible rod and in turn using that to produce rotational force, possibly via a flywheel. There are a whoooole bunch of drawbacks and benefits to this idea, but for the most part I don't believe it capable of practically achieving what I'd like it to.

Anyway, that's all I've got. I'd love to hear some thoughts!
 

RicksRides

Member
Feb 22, 2012
864
6
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osceola IN
modify a gas engine to burn propane or alcohol. Alcochol can be made from just about anything: grass clippings, tree bark, grain, even sugar. It can be distilled easily using a modified pressure cooker.
Rick
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
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Littleton, Colorado
First let me welcome you to the forum. You will probably enjoy it here.

By no means are we making fun of you. You've in fact brought up some very interesting concepts. Nevertheless, when I look at your minimum requirements, such as speed, fuel economy, weight, etc. you'd have to consider that a Chinese 2 stroke engine burning a gasoline/oil mix or one of the many relaible small 4 strokes will easily provide you with what you are trying to achieve.

10 pounds of fuel? That would take you a lot further than 50 miles.

30 MPH: Easily attainable with the right combination of engine/sprockets and weight.

Weight: The average weight of the engine and necessary peripherals is typically in the 25 to 30 pound range. Probably less than most of your proposals.

Ability to still pedal? Yes, and quite easily. There are even options that would allow a total disconnect of the engine to the wheel so there would be no parasitic drag from the drive components; or just take the chain off if your pedal distance was extreme.

I have many other thoughts on your ideas but most will align with what I've already mentioned. However, that being said, innovation is always welcome and as you are well aware is why technology is where it is today. Because someone was thinking outside of the constraints of the norm. Good luck and please let us know if you progress on any of your concepts.

Tom
 
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motorizemyride

New Member
Jan 14, 2013
12
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0
Green Bay, WI
modify a gas engine to burn propane or alcohol. Alcochol can be made from just about anything: grass clippings, tree bark, grain, even sugar. It can be distilled easily using a modified pressure cooker.
Rick
What are the advantages/drawbacks to using alcohol as a fuel? I mean, aside from being able to produce it yourself of course. If it measures up performance-wise that's certainly a possibility... otherwise it seems to make little sense to modify a gasoline engine to decrease performance. That said, it might be a viable combustion fuel for systems which operate based on heat, like steam or Stirling engines. Thanks for the input!

First let me welcome you to the forum. You will probably enjoy it here.
Thanks!

By no means are we making fun of you. You've in fact brought up some very interesting concepts. Nevertheless, when I look at your minimum requirements, such as speed, fuel economy, weight, etc. you'd have to consider that a Chinese 2 stroke engine burning a gasoline/oil mix or one of the many relaible small 4 strokes will easily provide you with what you are trying to achieve.
Yeah, I realize that given the constraints of my performance demands I will likely be best off with a gasoline engine. In fact, odds are that I'm just going to buy a used 48cc chainsaw and end up rack mounting it to a cheap bike for a total build cost somewhere around $200... if it's going to be vanilla, it may as well be cheap vanilla that'll easily meet my requirements. However, since this is already a DIY project I wouldn't be averse to spending a little more time/money/effort for something more offbeat which helps me hone my engineering abilities. Not many people in my part of the midwest are familiar with motorized bicycles, and the few who are would have their minds blown to see one powered by something other than a chinagirl kit.

10 pounds of fuel? That would take you a lot further than 50 miles.
That was mostly there to allow for non-gasoline systems since the energy:weight of other fuels is generally nowhere near gasoline.

30 MPH: Easily attainable with the right combination of engine/sprockets and weight.
Do you have links for sprocket/chain calculations, recommendations, etc? I've ruled out a friction drive (for the most part) due to tire wear and the fact that I want to keep the bike as balanced as possible.

I _was_ bouncing around exotic drivetrain ideas and would like any links you've got. I once built a gokart with a friction drive - the vertical shaft of the lawnmower engine had a small tire that actually contacted the rim the drive wheel. It occurs to me that with a bicycle wheel you'd need a counterforce on the other side to prevent warping, which would provide additional drag. Since I was thinking about steam engines OF COURSE my mind went to reciprocating shaft drives... simply put, "bluh."

Ability to still pedal? Yes, and quite easily. There are even options that would allow a total disconnect of the engine to the wheel so there would be no parasitic drag from the drive components; or just take the chain off if your pedal distance was extreme.
Do you have links for engine disconnect options? I would LOVE to remove parasitic drive drag on any build I do... riding my friend's motorized bike was not an enjoyable experience without the engine powering it.

I have many other thoughts on your ideas but most will align with what I've already mentioned. However, that being said, innovation is always welcome and as you are well aware is why technology is where it is today. Because someone was thinking outside of the constraints of the norm. Good luck and please let us know if you progress on any of your concepts.

Tom
Thanks for the supportive tone, Tom :) I realized going in that the scope of my ambition was likely beyond realistic practicality, but without running ideas by others there's no way to know what's absurd or not.
 
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2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
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Littleton, Colorado
Here's a link to some sprocket discussion. http://www.google.com/cse?cx=partne...4j13#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=sprocket size&gsc.page=1 Lots to choose from but the ball park is anywhere from a 32T, high end, to a 56T, low end of the gear scale.

You might benefit from using the 'Search' feature, top of each page, for details on questions you might have. Just type in a keyword/s and you'll have plenty to read on any subject related to motorized bikes.

As for the releasable sprocket, I do not currently have a link but maybe another member will chime in. Essentially it is a free rotating driven sprocket on the rear wheel that relies on removable pins to engage or disengage the sprocket from the hub. Hopefully someone will be able to provide a link soon. As I mentioned above the alternative, and much less expensive would be to use a master link on the chain which could be removed in the event you needed to pedal for long distances.

Tom
 
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RicksRides

Member
Feb 22, 2012
864
6
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osceola IN
What are the advantages/drawbacks to using alcohol as a fuel? I mean, aside from being able to produce it yourself of course. If it measures up performance-wise that's certainly a possibility... otherwise it seems to make little sense to modify a gasoline engine to decrease performance.

Advantages: better fuel economy,more power, burns cleaner and you dont build a whiskey burner to have less performance.
Built with a MB in mind a mildly built 4 stroke alcohol burner would provide real good preformance 10hp makes for a peppy bike
 

motorizemyride

New Member
Jan 14, 2013
12
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0
Green Bay, WI
Here's a link to some sprocket discussion. http://www.google.com/cse?cx=partne...4j13#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=sprocket size&gsc.page=1 Lots to choose from but the ball park is anywhere from a 32T, high end, to a 56T, low end of the gear scale.
Thanks for the link!

You might benefit from using the 'Search' feature, top of each page, for details on questions you might have. Just type in a keyword/s and you'll have plenty to read on any subject related to motorized bikes.
I've been using search already :) The links are just extra helpful.

As for the releasable sprocket, I do not currently have a link but maybe another member will chime in. Essentially it is a free rotating driven sprocket on the rear wheel that relies on removable pins to engage or disengage the sprocket from the hub. Hopefully someone will be able to provide a link soon. As I mentioned above the alternative, and much less expensive would be to use a master link on the chain which could be removed in the event you needed to pedal for long distances.

Tom
Well that's a cool idea, thanks again. While I intend to pedal a fair bit I'd like to change to power-on-demand mode without having to get off the bike. Removing the chain is a fine idea for riding when I specifically intend not to use the engine but I can't really forsee that happening.

Advantages: better fuel economy,more power, burns cleaner and you dont build a whiskey burner to have less performance.
Built with a MB in mind a mildly built 4 stroke alcohol burner would provide real good preformance 10hp makes for a peppy bike
Any helpful links for converting an engine? Ideally I was looking at two-stroke motors... would that be a possibility or is this strictly for four stroke designs? I'm also curious about the size and input requirements of a refining system which could create alcohol fuel in amounts which would be equivalent mileage-wise to three gallons of gasoline over the course of a week. Maintaining a small reserve supply would be aces for those weeks when I'd use more than I produce. Finally, how would converting/running on alcohol impact the life of the engine?
 

RicksRides

Member
Feb 22, 2012
864
6
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osceola IN
Any helpful links for converting an engine? Ideally I was looking at two-stroke motors... would that be a possibility or is this strictly for four stroke designs? I'm also curious about the size and input requirements of a refining system which could create alcohol fuel in amounts which would be equivalent mileage-wise to three gallons of gasoline over the course of a week. Maintaining a small reserve supply would be aces for those weeks when I'd use more than I produce. Finally, how would converting/running on alcohol impact the life of the engine?[/QUOTE]

2 smokers love whiskey too. well converting a engine to alcohol isnt that difficult. Convert ( replace all parts with alcohol resistant parts and increase jet sizes I start @ 30% larger) or just buy a carb,fuel pump, advance the timing (start at 5 degrees), I'd replace the rod (billet) and piston (high compression) flywheel etc... Simply converting a stock engine to alcohol will give you a boost in horsepower could be 20% or better take a stock 6.5 hp clone convert it and youll have 7.8hp or so. add rod,piston, flywheel, etc... heck the flat head briggs 5hp is capable of 25hp+ when built right.

If you build an engine to turn say 7500rpm but never take it past 6000rpm chances are the engine will last a long while.

I have a 16 quart pressure cooker I use for mine and I could make 3 gallons in a afternoon. a 20 gallon barrell with 15 gallons of mash in it should do that if distilled properly.
 
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motorizemyride

New Member
Jan 14, 2013
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Green Bay, WI
Wow, that sounds great.

Cursory google searches seem to indicate that running alcohol fuel isn't good for small engines. There seems to be a lot of people offering information who don't exactly know what they're talking about, though, so it's difficult for me to nail down what is and isn't true. Also, it seems that temperature is something to consider when using alcohol as a fuel. This is a factor I didn't consider when writing up my technical requirements. Being in Wisconsin and something of a nightowl I will certainly be riding in temperatures that dip down into the 40's and below which would make igniting alcohol difficult as far as I understand.
 

BarelyAWake

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Jul 21, 2009
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There's a strong anti-ethanol sentiment when searching for information & concerning the gasoline & ethanol "blends" I can't really blame them as motors intended for gasoline only use do tend to suffer, both in preformance & longevity, most particularly the smaller ones for a number of reasons (tendency for long storage, diaphragm carburetors, etc)... but that's not really the fault of alcohol as a fuel, rather using it as a fuel in an engine not designed or modified to account for alcohol's characteristics, or what I consider the abomination of gasoline/ethanol blends... a poor mix at best.

So yea, there's a strong bias, lots of misinformation and an incredible amount of mis-diagnosis concerning the topic, but insofar as I'm aware, RicksRides is pretty much spot-on in his recommendations... except there are these two minor aspects as well - straight alcohol "increase(s) the conductivity of the fuel. Increased electrical conductivity promotes electrical, galvanic and ordinary corrosion in the fuel system" yet there's little evidence demonstrating this is a rapid enough effect to be concerned with. Also as it's hygroscopic, there's the tendency for water build up in the fuel - but that's easily remedied by topping off the fuel tank after use (less surface area for condensation) & as water is denser than alcohol, a gravity auxiliary drain is simple enough to make, removing accumulated water from the fuel source is nothing more complicated than draining a bit out from time to time;


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alcohol_fuel

Best of luck in your experimentation (^)
 
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ferball

New Member
Apr 8, 2010
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Being a wimpy old guy I just thought I might point out that 30 mph is more than enough speed on a motorized bike. Once you get beyond that you need to consider the integrity of the bike the engine is on, not just the engine.

That being said one of the build I have always kept in the back of my mind is a trailer generator. The thought would be to power the bike with an electric motor, then power the motor with a generator attached to a trailer. This has the advantage of providing electricity if you plan on camping or what not, but you could make the generator be any type fuel you want and even attach a few solar panels for increased "greenness"

http://www.harborfreight.com/800-rated-watts-900-max-watts-portable-generator-66619.html

Motor drag would be minimal with right set up, the only down side would be a little extra weight for the trailer, but up side is the trailer could be used for hauling stuff as well.
 

RicksRides

Member
Feb 22, 2012
864
6
18
osceola IN
Ive run alcohol in my racing karts for years my youngest used an engine this year that i ran as a teen 30+ years ago it still runs. cold air does affect whiskey burners more then gas ones cold air is denser air this requires adjusting fuel/air mixture.
 
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RicksRides

Member
Feb 22, 2012
864
6
18
osceola IN
There's a strong anti-ethanol sentiment when searching for information & concerning the gasoline & ethanol "blends" I can't really blame them as motors intended for gasoline only use do tend to suffer, both in preformance & longevity, most particularly the smaller ones for a number of reasons (tendency for long storage, diaphragm carburetors, etc)... but that's not really the fault of alcohol as a fuel, rather using it as a fuel in an engine not designed or modified to account for alcohol's characteristics, or what I consider the abomination of gasoline/ethanol blends... a poor mix at best.

So yea, there's a strong bias, lots of misinformation and an incredible amount of mis-diagnosis concerning the topic, but insofar as I'm aware, RicksRides is pretty much spot-on in his recommendations... except there are these two minor aspects as well - straight alcohol "increase(s) the conductivity of the fuel. Increased electrical conductivity promotes electrical, galvanic and ordinary corrosion in the fuel system" yet there's little evidence demonstrating this is a rapid enough effect to be concerned with. Also as it's hygroscopic, there's the tendency for water build up in the fuel - but that's easily remedied by topping off the fuel tank after use (less surface area for condensation) & as water is denser than alcohol, a gravity auxiliary drain is simple enough to make, removing accumulated water from the fuel source is nothing more complicated than draining a bit out from time to time;


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alcohol_fuel

Best of luck in your experimentation (^)
BA, I wouldnt use a gasohol mix myself, one ore the other. Running alcohol will build up water in the tank as 190 proof (95%) alcohol is still 5% water. It is easy to drain off. For long term storage simply drain fuel and fog system with wd-40. gas and alcohol are such different fuel that when running alcohol your carb will cover with frost and will spit water/steam out the exhaust. these whiskey burners arent for a novice and one should be prepared to tinker/adjust things.
 

RicksRides

Member
Feb 22, 2012
864
6
18
osceola IN
ya could always build a wood gasifier. They were very popular during WW11 due to a short gas supply. Grandad liked his so much he drove that old ford till it died in the 60's
 

RicksRides

Member
Feb 22, 2012
864
6
18
osceola IN
Being from a family of so called "Bootleggers".( I'm the first in many generations not to be busted for bootleggin)I tend to be a fan of running alcohol. My first car ( AMC Javelin) had a 200 gallon tank in the roof and ran on our own shine. I had to replace the carb as well as do a few other things so I could take it to a gas station.Oh, it still only cost me 1.25$ or so to make a gallon of fuel from non-food grade sugar. I converted my 1970 Ford truck 1 ton 4x4 w/300 6cyl. It gets 22mpg now and was 117hp stock now shes a little over 140hp. No internal changes were made to the engine. We call her Home Brew, it pulls the trailer for my daughters race carts. To produce fuel on a large scale contact your local BATF for a fuel still permit.
 

motorizemyride

New Member
Jan 14, 2013
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Green Bay, WI
Thanks again for the info, Ricks. I'm certainly interested in refining/running alcohol fuel at some point and will be looking into it more in-depth as time goes on. You mentioned needing a different air/fuel mixture in colder climates, but from what I understand the issue is with the flashpoint of the fuel itself... it seems anything under 62 degrees ambient creates difficulties igniting alcohol fuel at the "normal" compression found in a small engine. Roughly half of my riding takes place in conditions below 62 degrees. The majority of people online suggest denaturing alcohol fuel with roughly 5% gasoline for both legality sake and the fact that it'll lower the temperature requirement - but only by about 5 degrees. I'd need closer to 20. An alcohol engine would be great to swap-in during a month or two in the summer though and I absolutely adore the DIY fuel creation.

I actually just learned of gasifiers myself about 6 months ago via some survivalist thing on TV. Thanks for reminding me of this! While I don't think it would be practical in this particular instance (as it tends to greatly reduce engine life) it's outside-the-box thinking in this fashion that this thread was meant for! Keep 'em coming!

I was reading up on electric drives and saw an interesting kit mentioned. Rather than the axle being used to drive a wheel, the idea was that the axle was stationary and the rotating motor casing itself was implemented as a friction drive. There's a few reasons I'm not interested in traditional electric drives (mainly the super heavy weight), but this seemed like a rather innovative implementation and got me wondering about the possibility of turning an entire wheel into a motor.
 

Ludwig II

Well-Known Member
Jul 17, 2012
5,071
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UK
This may well be heresy, but what about a small diesel running on cooking oil? 250, never mind 50 miles from 10lbs.
 

motorizemyride

New Member
Jan 14, 2013
12
0
0
Green Bay, WI
This may well be heresy, but what about a small diesel running on cooking oil? 250, never mind 50 miles from 10lbs.
That's certainly not heresy; I mention diesel in my first post. I'd absolutely love to use diesel but finding the correct size engine for less than a ridiculous price seems to be beyond my google-fu. I can salvage a gasoline engine from a $10 chainsaw on Craigslist, but small diesels run in the $300-$3000 range. While I realize that's likely the price range of developing some of the other options mentioned diesel lacks the novelty value as it's similar-enough to gasoline.

That said, if you know of a cheap and compact diesel engine that doesn't weigh twice that of an equivalent-powered gasoline engine I'd certainly be interested!