Is this a good centrifugal clutch to get?

99% of my centrifugal clutch kits come from there.
They are all the same no matter who the vendor is.
It is cheaper here:
Motorized BIKE GAS ENGINE parts - centrifugal clutches

stupid question but you still use the clutch lever? im guessing to start it
because I like to pull in the clutch going down fast hills to coast

what is a dis advantage to using the cen clutch



also ive read about a special tool needed to remove the clutch
I have that small puller but I think a longer one was needed
can someone clarify

never mind found another thread that answered all my questions
im going to get one along with wider pedals
right now they are 1/2 inch away and from the pics it looks like the clutch sticks out further then that

trancy211 said:

the one is not that great actually.

Click to expand...

whats a good one
from what I understand they all come from the same place?
I just put on in and its okay
from a dead stop I get shaking but I think one of the three clutch arms engages earlier even though they are all held together with the same spring

Im hoping once it wears in more it will be smoother
but if your barely rolling its smooth
also its a little noisy but I put dynamat in the new covers, helped alot

the bell is out of round at idle but engaged its level
I used a file and ran the engine and sanded it down some, to help keep it from hitting the cover
I had to hand make 2 gaskets to also keep the final cover from hitting the clutch
but so far its acceptable
I would love it if they make an adjustable one that can fit in so I can change when they engage if one is available let me know

I find I pedal more to get started but not as hard
where with the clutch only I had to pedal hard and try to pop the clutch, with a beach cruiser its harder the way my hands are layed out

I have a Zoombicycles 66cc 2-stroke that I purchased about 1-1/2 years ago and I just purchased a centrifugal clutch kit from Pirate cycles and the clutch pack included with the kit does not match up to my motor. I used the puller to remove the gear and was able to get the housing attached and mount flush after grinding down the studs from the clutch pad cover. Then installed the cover and went to attached the clutch pack. First I noticed that the key on my motor shaft is not removable and is machined in as part of the shaft then I noticed that when I put the new gear/clutch pack assembly on there is no way to secure it. It seems to have a notch made into it and then just a bolt that would screw into the motor shaft. My motor shaft did not have a bolt, it only has a the gear and a screw in cover made of the same material as the original gear which is flush when installed. Any ideas? In the mean time I'll send a note to Zoom to see if they have any advise.

Ok after reading further maybe I need to do what Rohmell did and cut a space into the clutch pack for the shaft key and then maybe things will slide on further and the bolt that came with the kit will screw in far enough to secure the new clutch pack and align things properly.

mine just press fit on, i used a mallet and red loctite too but 5 days later when I pulled it off it came off easy so I dont think loctite was needed
did you try to remove the key I had to use needle nose pliers it was in tight
im pretty sure yours is not machined on its easier to make a round shaft then cut the key into it, rather then machining a shaft with a perm key
even my expensive scooters use a woodruff key on the shaft for the flywheels



im really close to buying another clutch because my bell is loose so at idle it clanks and makes alot of noise, because I had finally got the bike super quiet by removing parts that vibrated
now it sounds like a train at idle

can you see if the black bell wobbles big time even off the bike, mine is very loose
if you can make it rattle in your hand its going to rattle on the bike

I even added that dyna mat inside the new tranny covers to cut down on the noise
but once I slightly rev the bike the noise goes away because the clutch is in the bell

Thanks Sd I'll check out the key again. Though I might just go ahead and notch the bell internally so I can just leave the key in place. The clutch parts don't seem to move too much inside the bell housing when I have it out.

Ok so good news on the key, it came out easily with only a little help from a screwdriver tip.

Next up I put the clutch bell on and to my surprise it slips on, in actual fact, too far and ends up bottoming out and grinding on the new casing and is very loose. My shaft isn't tapered and the supplied bolt isn't shaped to align anything. I could offset with a washer but it's still loose and moves due to the over sized clutch bell hole. The hole in the clutch bell has a rectangle shape to it. So I took it back off and reinstalled the shaft key and reinstalled the original gear which actually has some wearing on it but still works well. Ugh!

sdcruizer
if you used the loctite correctly as in on CLEAN metal no oil residue to would have taken 400F to get it apart. Would not have come apart easy.

Measured and the i.d. of the original motor gear and the i.d. of the clutch bell are way off. My motor gear i.d. is like 13.75mm and the i.d. of the clutch bell is like 18mm.