Engine stopped - CDI test ???

GoldenMotor.com

kallsop

Member
May 2, 2009
106
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CT US
The bike was running great. Now it won't start. Removed the carb float bowl, all there looks to be working as it should, put it back together. Getting volts at the engine output, not so sure about sparks at the plug. Anyone got a simple test? I removed the plug and put the wire back on, held the plug body against the engine metal, and pushed the bike forwards. I don't see a spark, but it's daylight. There is compression when the plug is installed. Maybe the CDI died? Is there a static test for the CDI e.g. resistance from X to Y is Z?

This is giving me new motivation to build my 4 stroke. I have all the parts except custom Manic Mechanic / Creative Engineering rear hub adapter and sprocket, ordered way back.
 

kallsop

Member
May 2, 2009
106
1
18
CT US
NGK plug, NGK boot. It was running fine, parked it, now it won't start. Plug is medium to dark brown, gap is not measured but looks ok.
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
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Phoenix,AZ
Check the CDI with an ohm meter at 20Kohm setting, ground to the plug cap and hot to the black wire should gibe you around 2.3K.

Other than that I have found no other way to test a CDI out of circuit.

Check you connections, and pay attention to the white wire kill button wire as well, disconnect it if in doubt about the throttle kill button.

Check your spark plug, every auto store sells these keychain disc gapers for like a buck at the counter.

Nothing to them really, just a disc with a varying width and numbers.



Most plugs for these bikes work best between .028 and .032 gap depending on your wiring and the plug



The wider you can go and still spark the better, it is a bigger spark arc, but you set it where it will reliably spark all the time.

A good plug certainly helps with getting a wider gap, I run .032 my Iridium NGK.
Then again I also run all new CDI wiring as well ;-}
(no shameless plug this time)
 

jKellym

New Member
Jul 23, 2010
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Houston
I am having the exact same issue. Duame at DAX said it was more probably my magneto than may CDI so I replaced that. That didn't work so I am getting my new CDI in the mail today. KC, I had read on this site elsewhere to gap it between .24 and .28 so I gapped it at .25. Do I need to go get a gapper ( I used a friends) and bump it up to .30? I have an aftermarket plug and wire.
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
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Phoenix,AZ
For ~$1 a gap tool is just a handy thing to have ya know?
And the gap depends on the plug and wiring.
I'd try .028, that should be wide enough.
It's the really good plugs and wiring that let you open them up some more.
 

ferball

New Member
Apr 8, 2010
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NH
I had the same problem. I replaced the plug wire and it ran fine, the wire was broken internally on the CDI side. Ran so well I crashed it, after I recover I will put it back together again.
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
57
48
Phoenix,AZ
I had the same problem. I replaced the plug wire and it ran fine, the wire was broken internally on the CDI side. Ran so well I crashed it, after I recover I will put it back together again.
Ouch! Crashed it?
You going to be OK?
Best wishes dude.
 

bairdco

a guy who makes cool bikes
Aug 18, 2009
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living the dream in southern california
there's a thread here somewhere about plug gaps, and i did some experiments. factory gap is .030 (depending on your manual) so i started there, then went down in increments of .005 (.025, .020, .015 etc...)

at .005 i couldn't start it anymore. went up to .008 and started it, but it took awhile and ran like crap.

went back up to .030, then went up in .005 increments. crapped out again at .050. still ran at .045.

from .020 to .040 their wasn't much of a difference.

i run my bikes at .020. from racing experience, i know a smaller gap is better for higher RPMs, and i run my bikes at WOT all the time, so if it's a little harder to start, i don't care.
 

kallsop

Member
May 2, 2009
106
1
18
CT US
Update: I tried all sorts of things - different CDI, different plug cap, different magneto, checked all wiring. It just wouldn't start. Got out the DVM and measured the NGK plug, there was no continuity between terminal and center contact. Hmmmm. Put in the original and unused Chinese plug and the engine fires right up. Never had an NGK plug go bad before, but then again, these HT engines have a lot of vibes.