Ghost Racer 7G Transmission lock

I'm going to guess it's the centrifugal clutch.
Just open it up & have a look... the problem should be easy to find.

Ya, unless the bushing for the bell is already toast just loosen you belt a bit and it should roll free.

The 7G kit doesn't have a one way bearing. I've got less than 50 miles on my 7G bike, but judging from the youtube videos (which there are only 2), the other 99.6% of videos and information on the net (including spare the parts) are for the 4G kits and motors . We are in new territory with these 7G kits. I'm not using my 2 stroke as much because of these headaches. The 4 stroke motor is so nice, but the transmissions seem to act up on all these kits. Just take the transmission off and take a look at whats going on. My 2 stroke locked the back wheel up and it was clutch and chain related. Just breaking in my 4 stroke motor and its real smooth and quiet at 20-23mph and took a quick sampling of the gas mileage with 8.5 ounces of gas which equated to 135 MPG. Far better than the 80 MPG with the 2 stroke money drain. I still carry my needle nose pliers to remove the master link and chain when I have to pedal the bike home.

My experience with the 7g transmission is that the clutch springs might be a bit too weak and so they engage at too low an RPM. I bought some very thin washers and added one to each of the three clutch arms and it produced good results. The clutch engages at a higher engine RPM now and so I don't experience any skipping of the clutch and it doesn't lock up like you've described. (I had it happen once previously). Also, it disengages more quickly after I let off the throttle. Best of luck to you.

This might not be your problem, but the 7G transmission may have another problem. Since the 7G Ghost Racer kit doesn't have applicable directions and this kit has only 2 sets (of 4) black allen bolts that could be used to attach the transmission to the HS 142f's engine. The 1st set of black allen bolts are used to attach the motor to the mounting plate (bottom or side) and they have approx. 3/4 inch of thread to them. The other set of 4 have approx 1 inch of thread and seem much easier to thread into the transmission mounting holes. I threaded one of the (1 inch) transmission bolts all the way in on the naked engine and counted 13 turns till they bottomed out. I then placed the bolt through the transmission and counted the exposed threads and it was between 12-13 threads; it is difficult to judge threads since the end is tapered (easy threading bolts and the taper makes them longer). Again, since the kit had no detailed instructions and it couldnt show a lock washer with that bolt, I installed that bolt without one and bolt bottoms out (When new, it tightened just as it bottomed out and I didn't notice it till later); which causes the transmission to become noticeably loose after just 50 to 60 miles. The bolts themselves remained tight, but since they have bottomed out, they have caused the whole transmission to become loose with time. I don't think the only other set of bolts could have worked in the transmission. I also believe the transmission bolts are supposed to be recessed, but using the 1 inch threaded bolts and lock washers help keep that bolt from bottoming out; it also causes the allen bolts not to be flush in their recessed holes (I saw no clearance problems with anything nearby). Now I know why the chain was experiencing more problems then the typical chain stretch. I have a bicycle computer on the bike and the transmission hasn't even gone 60 miles. The only other option is to buy shorter allen bolts, otherwise this transmission will come loose at some point.

Loctite is a must.

WERA/CCS and the FAA: Loctite is not a viable visible means for visual inspection and maintenance. Safety wire is used on the outside of the engine and other areas. Loctite doesn't prevent bolts from loosening up if the bolts have bottomed out. In 13 years of motorcycle racing I cannot think of one thing I used Loctite on the outside of an engine or exterior of the race bike. Safety wire can break as well. A super rubbery glue (like shoe goo) and safety wire is almost fool proof. Even if the safety wire breaks the adhesive will keep the bolt from turning. In fact, if shoe goo is not removed it will wind the bolt almost back in. Milkcrate82 did a video in which the Loctite failed in one of his applications. Loctite will prevent proper torquing and re-torquing. Again, Loctite cannot prevent bolts from moving/stretching.... Clean bolt threads will allow the bolts to perform as they are supposed too. Only when security and catastrophic risk dictate Loctite's use such as connecting rod bolts.

mctylermore said:

Ok thanks for all the replies. I finally got around to taking the transmission apart and @KCvale hit the nail on the head, the bushings for the clutch bell cover are toast.

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I can't find the bushing, hence why the efforts to replace it with bearings, I can't find oil seals for the HS 142F either, that's the sucky part.

Get yourself an NGK 7544 (CR7HIX) Iridium spark plug.
Just like the Iridium's for the 2-strokes you feel the difference.

Can you give us a link to the replacement bushing. I ordered a 7g kit ( could not pass up the 199.99 price) and wanted to have spares on hand.

On another note what bearing mod was being refered to in an earlier post, I thought that was only for the 4g transmition.

Aceinthesky said:

Can you give us a link to the replacement bushing.

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http://www.gasbike.net/scart/public...product_preview&id=4097&uid_temp=3&detailed=1
$10 so use the 25% Black Friday off code.

On another note what bearing mod was being refered to in an earlier post, I thought that was only for the 4g transmition.

Click to expand...

I couldn't make it work, you just have to remove to much material to real bearings in.

I bought 4 bushings for the HS142F based on those earlier posts (McMaster Carr) and they dont fit at all. I understand those posts were for the 4G engines but they are based on the same engine. The so called replacement bushings (McMaster Carr) are real small looking (overall length) and dont even match the OEM picture for the stock 4G transmission. I bought a digital caliper and measurements are close (for the so called replacement bushings) but the 5/8 inch straight shaft is NOT 15 or 16mm. The OD of the McMaster Carr bushing is 20mm (plus or minus) which is too big. I still need to double check my measurements, but I might order some FF-703 bushings and I will post if these fit.

I've only gone 110 miles on the new engine and its getting too cold to ride much. I have not noticed much wear at all on the original bushing. I have even looked at plastic bushings (high speed and temp) from Igus and they have failed to respond to emails.

Amazon FF-703 bushings:
http://www.amazon.com/Oilite®-Sinte...ie=UTF8&qid=1417123338&sr=1-8&keywords=FF-703

For comparison purposes the OEM 4g replacement bushing:

http://www.bicycle-engines.com/Oillite-Bushing-for-58-CC-33.html

radaracer285 said:

I bought 4 bushings for the HS142F based on those earlier posts (McMaster Carr) and they dont fit at all. I understand those posts were for the 4G engines but they are based on the same engine.

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The HS 142 engine comes in 2 types.

Short shaft with clutch installed:



That is for the 4G trannies, the clutch bell is mounted in the 4G case on a bearing so all the load is on a bearing in the case.
For the 20T-80T the 80T is a freewheel so even a 9T sprocket can used on the output.
In both the 80T and 100T 4G's have a self contained belt drive you bolt on.

Long shaft with no clutch installed:



That is for the 7G.
You put a clutch on, then the bell on a busing and a bolt to hold both on.
The case just has a hole for them, and the bell on that bushing carries all the load and the only freewheel.

In short, the motor is the front 20T belt mount, the 1000T case the back.

Gasbike.net now has the bushing 10$ each. They also have the carb and clutch parts... sold seperatly for a high price.

A thought for you guys that are unaware. This motor is cheap knock off of a honda GXH50. So once in a while you can find an over priced honda part that will directly translate.

I will say this about gasbike.net. Once in a while they will answer their phone. At no point will the guy that runs it help you out, or provide any customer service that is customer service. The guy has the mentality of , I have your money your problems are no longer mine,.

Example I called him he actually answered... happens on rare occasion. Told him that the bolt that holds the chain tensioner pulley was made of inferior metal and the threads pulled off on a ride... due to vibration and 4 stroke torque. I told him I had the kit for about 2-3 weeks at that point. I think it was my fourth ride. I asked him if he could get replacement bolts. I wanted to buy around 20 bolts since nothing else failed. He said no. I said well what can you do for such a short life of wear. He replied I can sell you a new tensioner for 10$, ill cut out the shipping. To which I replied no. Not going to buy another 2 week failure part for 10$
(BTW my solution was to make a tensioner are and drill a hole into the tensioner bracket to hold the arm then add a spring. To fix the bolt problem I got a 5/16 grade 8 bolt. then I bought a can of soda. I drak the soda and rinsed it out. After rinsing the soda I cut a piece of the can as wide as the inner bearing face that used to meet the 3/8 bolt diameter. Co cut the can about 1/4 - 3/8 wide and I think I was 1.5 - 2.5 inches long. Wrap your home made shim around your 5/16 bolt to mate the tensioner wheel. Assemble and ride.(This bolt is not avalable anywhere I have checked even with custom manufacturers ((under 100 pieces))

I Can't remember where I learned to use soda cans for shims but I can say it is effective.

Next example of poor customer service at GB.N. I talked to my friend about how great a kit it was. (before issues) He ordered one. The day after it arrived the kit went on sale for 199. He called the guy to see if he would sale the one day difference sale price. To which the guy said piss off. (Different words I am sure.) Now here is what is interesting. The 7g kit is available from a chineses source for 100$. I wish I hadn't lost the link but I did. So you can with effort get a whole kit for 100$ direct from its crappy manufacturer.

So you can get parts you need at GB.n at a premium. Have no expectation of function or customer service though.