Incremental Chain Tensioning, Chain Management

HI well, I thought sure that I had written this here, but in case not, here goes.

Other than a true spring-loaded guide, which some I knew in the past had made, the best tension roller LIFTING the chain is NONE.

This is how it came to be that I invented the aluminum T-Shirt.

Remember that when you move the engine forward the chain slack reduction is twice the distance of the movement of the engine. One full link-set is one inch, therefore the MAX that you would ever need to move your engine would be 1/2 inch. Additionally, good is good enuf, and there is no need for perfect, which, actually does not exist.

Now, take your rear sliding motor mount, make a pattern on a piece of extruded aluminum strap, not to exceed the width of the mount or it can hang up in the chain.

Originally I drilled the holes, and slid them on the studs in-between the rear motor mount and the engine case. AFTER pulling the engine in and out several times it occurred to me that when I aligned the front-end on my 55 Chevy, that the shims had a tab-handle, and did not require removing the bolts, just loosen, pry open, slip in and re tighten.

This is where we are now, your shims look like t-shirts, and the "arms" of the t-shirt lay on top of the 2 studs, with the body of the shirt hanging down, full-length to space the engine evenly, and rock-solid.

Next installment, after you-all ask anything you like about this, I'll explain the other section of Chain Management, which we invented (Kevin "evil elvis" Waddle, and Meself), the Upstop Roller.


Mike

Hi, well, ok step two in the conquering of the "chain slappin' blues". After I once started building these bikes, I began to use KMC HD cruiser bike chain instead of whatever was in the kits.

Sadly, on about my 8th or 10th engine SpitFire had changed to the bigger, dumber, heavier chains. I revolted, and returned to the Bicycle Chain. These can be overcome with KMC's BMX chain, tho the pitch is a wee bit different.

Here a dremel, with a diamond bit is your best friend, work out all the burrs, sharp edges, reshape the teeth as needed, AND you should run the chain thru, over and over, refineing your teeth's shape, till the chain does not try to "climb" the sprocket, once this is done we can proceed to improve the rest of the system.

Also know, that the "shoulder" of the sprocket sometimes needs some relieving, AND that your master link too many times does not have the DOGBONE shape, and you either need to relieve that shoulder, or "dogbone" that master link. Taking care of this will stop many unexplained chain derailing, snapping, or blowing the master link episodes, and maybe long walks home?

I NEVER use the kit chain, they must be made of some metal version of silly putty.

Sooo, replace your chain, adjust it with the T-shirts, (With your carb as LEVEL as possible).

AFTER you replace your chains, we will get on with step 3 of the "Chain Slappin Blues".

Are ya with me?

Mike

Step 2:

IF you cannot get your single-speed chain the right lenght to work on your bike at the same point as your engine, have you considered that the drive sprocket on a coaster brake comes in (I think) 17, 18, 19 29, 22, and 24 teeth?

Adjust accordingly, Next I'll try to find a pic of my "Upstop Roller"

Mike