Saw test run...

Okay took the 33Saw for a good 10mile test run and it ran great aside from a few gliches. Its a no clutch friction drive with a pivot lift when stopping.

Problems:
I put a heavier spring which helps with the roller bounce off the tire when hitting big bumps but it does add more tension on the pivot lift lever or (aka cable clutch), which is going to put a toll on my hand when hitting the stop lights. I did the additional brake lever for the roller release.

When i hit a big bump, and if the roller bounces off the tire it will release the lift cable off the top pulley. Im thinking of adding a spring at the end of the cable but im afraid the cable might shear from the friction of it sliding through the cable stop hole. I hope that makes sense.

I do notice some considerable wear on the tire due to the stop and go action. Im pretty sure it is mostly from me giving to much gas before lowering the roller when starting from a stop. I'll have to get used to the throttle.

All and all, the Throttle setup works great, the 1.5" peg with tacks gets me up to 32" no prob., and the gas can works great also. I fugure 32oz. should get me about 30miles+.

Any suggestions on the release cable bouncing off the pulley would be greatly appreciated.

Here are some pics of the pulley setup and the roller with tire wear. The roller is pretty knarly so i think im going to sand down the tacks a bit to see if it helps with the wear.

Im running 2 pullies and its pretty tight tension on the lever. I mounted a spring on the end of the cable to pull in the slack so i will give it a try. My top pully might need to be at a lower angle because of my engine mount. the conection to the cable is pretty high. I'll touch base tomorrow. The cable i used for the engine lift was a used cable there might be alot of friction on it because it was pretty old.

I mounted a spring at the end of the cable to pull the slack when i engage the lift, it worked great so far. Im a little concern about shear on the cable while sliding through the little. i might try a pivoting top pulley to catch the slack but with a stop when the roller is engaged. Thats the advantage of having a mig welder, you can just add in tight spots and cut if it doesn't work.

I still think the tension on the lever is too much when i engage, its pretty hard on the hand. I'll have to check with Deac and Shoes on how hard theirs is to engage.

One other problem i had while on my commute home test. It is a 15 mile run home and after about 10min. of riding the 33Saw would lose power slowly until finally just shutting off. I would fiddle with it for about 10min. then it would start up again and 10 min. later same thing? It has a new Plug and i cleaned out the carb. Im thinking it might be running to rich on the H adjuster and its fouling out the plug. Before the test runs I tried tuning with the references on the net and from shoes and it sounded good but while on a longer run it shut down. Im not sure if the knob should be turned in or out to make it leaner.

Well i think its either over heating or getting flooded. As long as it sits for a bit it will restart. I made it back to my shop so i am going to play with the tuning. I let it idle at lights, then do some hard peddling and drop when i get up to speed where i think the roller will catch. Once up to 25-30 i'll go on and off the throttle to keep a god pace.

The cable i used for the lift sheared and was heck for me to mickey mouse just to make it to my shop. There is way too much tension on the lever.

On your bikes is it hard to bring in the lift lever?
Mine feels like a brick. The line is pretty straight but maybe the distance between the 2 pullies is to short or there is to much degree in rise between the 2 pullies. I posted some pics in the previous notes. I had to put the tension on the spring pretty tight to take away the bounce on the roller. My right forarm is going to be soar.