#1 Jet 66cc/80cc; Just came in today!

GoldenMotor.com

anothen

New Member
Dec 31, 2010
31
0
0
Austin Texas
Well, I've almost got everything installed.
Brings back old memories.

I like the new choke system, at least now
I don't have to lean over and fumble
around trying to find it.

Only three casualties, one of the mounting
studs was all bent to h*** and the gas
tank has a light gash in it, and the cheap
plastic carb cover was chipped. But I guess
thats the trade off for being thrifty.

I haven't filled the gas tank yet, but if
it does leak, I'll call support.
Don't too much care about the stud.
Don't really care about the carb cover.

I do like the new look. I'll take pics
when I'm finished and post 'em here.

Carb looks bigger and less cheap looking.
Spark plug is in an angle, I guess this
gives it more clearance.

I noticed that the wires have duel
connectors, I just wonder if a light
could be connected to it.

Head bolts are larger and less cheap
looking.

I'm not using that cheap a** chain
that came w/ it.

I was originally just going to install
the engine and leave everything else
but I'm liking all the new stuff.
Except for the sprocket, I already
have a sprocket wheel, I don't need
to mess w/ that (thank god)

well, I'm heading back out to finish
up, I'll finish my review when I get
back.
 

anothen

New Member
Dec 31, 2010
31
0
0
Austin Texas
Well, got it all together, no start.

I have to use the new cheap
puny chain because my heavy
duty won't
fit on the new transmission
sprocket.
I tried my old sprocket but
it won't fit on the shaft.
I saw an article about grinding
down the sprocket, but I'd rather
buy a new sprocket and
grind it first so I don't
FUBAR my new one.

I don't know why it won't start
yet, I'll first check the spark
by removing the plug ground
it and see if it's getting spark.
If it's getting spark, I'll check the carb.
I could put the old carb on
just to make sure it will run.

Turns okay. Seems kinda tight
though. I may pull my rear tire
and check bearings. Might as
well while I have the chain off.

Well, I'm on break, I'll be back later
to check on the thread.
 

anothen

New Member
Dec 31, 2010
31
0
0
Austin Texas
Well still no start.

Pulled the spark plug and taped
it to the head, it is getting
really good spark.

Put my old carb on
still no start, not even
a little.

Couldn't be compression,
I can tell just by popping
the clutch the compression
is good.

It couldn't be timing, there
is none.

Flooded? Well, I don't know.
I could pull the spark plug
and crank it dry and try again.

I'm running out of options.
 

bairdco

a guy who makes cool bikes
Aug 18, 2009
6,537
264
63
living the dream in southern california
well, you got spark, so next is fuel.

check the obvious, like make sure the petcock's on and flowing, then check the float bowl of the carb, make sure it has fuel in it.

if it does, set your idle screw at 3.5 to 4 full turns out.

if it's got fuel and spark, it should start. try pedaling faster?
 

anothen

New Member
Dec 31, 2010
31
0
0
Austin Texas
well, you got spark, so next is fuel.

check the obvious, like make sure the petcock's on and flowing, then check the float bowl of the carb, make sure it has fuel in it.

if it does, set your idle screw at 3.5 to 4 full turns out.

if it's got fuel and spark, it should start. try pedaling faster?
yup, done all that.
Changed spark plug to the old one,
put the old carb on,
I even removed the muffler
and tried, still nothing,

However, I went down and bought
some high grade fuel, mixed
16/1 and it started right up.

YAAAAY!!!

I'm letting it idle for a while to help
break it in. It spudders above
half throttle, probably needs more
break in or a float adj.

But I'm glad to hear it running.

** dances around the forum **
 

bairdco

a guy who makes cool bikes
Aug 18, 2009
6,537
264
63
living the dream in southern california
16:1 is rich. they say that in the directions because these bikes were running on 30w motor oil.

24:1 would be better.

also, don't let it idle too long for break in. the rings will seat better if you run it at different loads, from slow to WOT, mix it up a bit.

glad ya got it running. feels great, no? :)
 

anothen

New Member
Dec 31, 2010
31
0
0
Austin Texas
16:1 is rich. they say that in the directions because these bikes were running on 30w motor oil.

24:1 would be better.

also, don't let it idle too long for break in. the rings will seat better if you run it at different loads, from slow to WOT, mix it up a bit.

glad ya got it running. feels great, no? :)
Well, I'm already at 16/1, I'll change it
next fill up.

Well, I wish I read this before, I've let
it idle for about a half hour.

Still spuddering at half throttle under
a load. I ran it up and down the
street for a while.
Dabbed a little high temp greese
on the clutch side and adjusted
it a little. I like the new clutch
handle.
I also double nut the wire clamp to
minimize slippage.

Kill switch does not work using
ground. However it will work
if I connect directly to one
of the magneto wires, but I just
don't feel good about that.

Readjusted the chain again.

100_0400.JPG

100_0401.JPG

Flash is not working so I'll take more
pics tomorrow.

I'm tired, closing shop for the eve'
 

Goat Herder

Gutter Rider
Apr 28, 2008
6,237
20
38
N.M.
The over all Idea about break in is the piston rings need the back pressure of a motor under a load. Some folks say run the motor hella hard I say run it at verying stages but under a load and sometimes hard. Some folks say just to get after it and drive it like ya stole it. The bottom line is the piston rings have to see the motor under load or they chatter and seat in wrong when breaking in.

Which is deemed as a weaker running motor in the long run. Once its broke in it is what it is.

Pulling a all nighter on the new beast aye:)(^)
 
Last edited:

anothen

New Member
Dec 31, 2010
31
0
0
Austin Texas
Well, it seems to running a little better.

I ran it under a load, that is uphill
full throttle and brakes full throttle.
It seems to do well under a load.
Ran it for about a half hour.

It still spudders, but it's getting
less.

The instructions said that the
carb adj screw was expoxy'd
during assemble because of
EPA. (essentually pathetic a**holes)

I was wondering if it's worth trying to
mess w/it.

During full throttle, it gives me
lights bursts of its potential.
I can tell that it should be performing
much better. It acts as if the
carb need just a light adj.
 

bairdco

a guy who makes cool bikes
Aug 18, 2009
6,537
264
63
living the dream in southern california
you gotta remember it's still in it's beak-in period. it might take 2-3 tanks of fuel before it's running better.

my advice is to basically leave it alone, as long as it runs ok, and wait. you'll now when it's ready. a lot of bikes seem to just magically smooth out and accelerate suddenly when they're broken in.
 

anothen

New Member
Dec 31, 2010
31
0
0
Austin Texas
you gotta remember it's still in it's beak-in period. it might take 2-3 tanks of fuel before it's running better.

my advice is to basically leave it alone, as long as it runs ok, and wait. you'll now when it's ready. a lot of bikes seem to just magically smooth out and accelerate suddenly when they're broken in.
Yeah, I remember my first one,
it did the same thing, but
without the spuddering.

I'm almost ready for a refill,
I'll increase mix to 24/1.

My fuel line just barely fits
and I'm using a small
piece of bailing wire to keep
it secure. I'll see if the parts
store has some clamps.
 

anothen

New Member
Dec 31, 2010
31
0
0
Austin Texas
Spuddering fixed.

Out of curiosity I pulled the plug
and gave it a closer inspection.
It has three electrodes instead
of the standard one. One of the
electrodes had a much smaller
gap than the other two.

I replaced the plug with my old
one and started it up and
VAARRROOOOM!
No spuddering at all.

However, it seemed to trade
out a little bit of power,
I'll try to re-gap the original
and see what happens.