First, the clutch cable is the one with nothing on one end, which you have probably figured out already. The outer casing of the cable, called the conduit, goes down by the right side of the cylinder and gets the larger of the long springs around it to keep it off the hot motor. The end of the conduit slips into the adjusting screw mounted in the bolt just under the carb. This mount has a nut you can loosen to let the cable sort of point in the direction of least binding. The inner core protrudes from the lower end of the conduit aiming toward and through the clutch lever on the motor and is retained by a little fastener with a set screw. Nothing lines up perfect but works okay. Leave a little adjustment available on the handlebar lever and take all the slack out of the cable and tighten the set screw. When you get it running you will have to fine tune your adjustment to get it working just rught. You can also bend the lower clutch lever into a banana shape so it points toward the lower adjuster better. You take it out of the sprocket cover and bend it in a vise. Don't go too far, a little will do. Then tighten the lock nut on the lower adjuster. Oh, the smaller of the long springs is supposed to go on the lower part of the cable between the clutch arm and adjuster, but I never use that spring because the clutch return spring is strong enough to disengage the clutch without it. It is basically to return the clutch arm to the disengaged position, but I feel it's not necessary.
