Problem with centrifugal clutch - Newb

GoldenMotor.com

ishman

Member
May 19, 2014
55
0
6
Michigan
(I moved this thread in the appropriate place)
I just bought a 66cc kit from Fast Bike Motors. I researched for a while and finally just jumped in. I ordered a pull start and a centrifugal clutch with it and I went to install the clutch today and found that the new cast alum. cover that came with the kit interferes with the original clutch so bad you cant rotate the clutch/ sprocket shaft. I watched a youtube vid on the subject and the guy uses 5 gaskets between the engine case and the side cover so he can drill a hole for lube access to the centrifugal clutch, he never said that it was necessary for clearance. Anybody have a similar experience? I did a search, no luck.

Thx Ishman
 

Davezilla

New Member
Mar 15, 2014
2,705
10
0
San Antonio Texas
I ordered a centrifugal clutch a while back and it's the type that can be pedal started or pull started and it doesn't use any oil in the case, the pull start only type does need to be sealed off so you can put oil in that part of the case.
I ran into a similar problem where the bolt holes didn't line up perfectly with my case so I had to dremel a few of the holes to get them to line up properly. This is probably normal for most builds since these engines are slightly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Mine didn't need extra gaskets for clearance tho, but I've heard of it being a problem for others. I think I saw that same youtube and the guy drilled the holes to make it easier to lube the bevel gear so he wouldn't havve to remove the cover and the clutch assembly to access the area that needs to be lubed regularly.
The other problem I found with the one I got was that the one way clutch bearings are very cheaply made and they would bind up instead of freewheel in one direction so I had to lathe off a few thousandths from the shaft extension so it would work properly
Hope that answers your question.
 

ishman

Member
May 19, 2014
55
0
6
Michigan
Good info, its appreciated. When you say "take off a few thousandth's", do you mean from the ID of the one way, or the OD of the shaft?

Ishman
 

Davezilla

New Member
Mar 15, 2014
2,705
10
0
San Antonio Texas
I had to take off about 2 thousandths ffrom the OD of the shaft extension then polish it before the bearings would roll smoothly one way and lock up like they're supposed to the other way. Most the ones sold on ebay have the one way clutch built in and these are supposed to be run dry, just gotta grease the one way bearing and the shaft extension regularly. I know Grubee sells one that don't have the one way clutch and the case needs to be sealed off so it can hold about 3 ounces of oil, these are better because the gears never run the risk of running dry but they can only be used with a pull start.
The ones with the one way clutch don't have the right friction material to run in an oil bath so they need to be greased often and that's why the guy on youtube added more gaskets and drilled the hole to make the routing lubing much much easier to do.
 

ishman

Member
May 19, 2014
55
0
6
Michigan
Interesting, my one way seems to be working as is, but polishing the shaft sounds like a good idea. As far as lubing the shaft goes, my clutch has three small holes in the shaft extension, I was thinking of semi-filling the interior of the shaft with maybe white lithium grease or maybe something a little thicker before installing the screw. Centrifugal force would push the grease out the holes while running adding lubrication.
Again good stuff,thx.

Ishman
 

Davezilla

New Member
Mar 15, 2014
2,705
10
0
San Antonio Texas
If you decide to polish your shaft extension, one word of caution, there's nothing to hold the roller bearings in place when the extension is puled out of the clutch assembly... Mine went flying and I had to find 2 of them, they're kinda small and landed on the carpet so they were well camoflaged... lol... took a while to find those rollers just so I could get it back together after I cleaned it all up...
 

ishman

Member
May 19, 2014
55
0
6
Michigan
Funny how different all these parts are, my one way is held into the clutchbell by a stiff wire. The extension has been out a few times, first time by accident. I will take pics right and post them now while it is on my mind.

Thx

Ish
 
Last edited:

ishman

Member
May 19, 2014
55
0
6
Michigan
OK here the Pics, first is the clutch bell showing the wire that holds in the one way bearing. Second pic shows how the clutch pins are contacting the cover and the third shows how much the pins interfere with the the cover holding it up. The last picture shows one of the holes in the extension shaft. There 3 all together, that is why I was thinking of putting some grease in the hollow extension shaft so centrifugal force would push the grease out the holes and keep the shaft lubed, instead the whole mess of drilling holes from the outside of the case through the gear and using WD-40 as lube.
 

wheelbender6

Well-Known Member
Sep 4, 2008
4,059
221
63
TX
I used a combo of extra gaskets and grinding the inside of the clutch cover with a dremel.
I did not grind down the pins on the manual clutch because I wanted to keep it functional for pedal starting.
 

Davezilla

New Member
Mar 15, 2014
2,705
10
0
San Antonio Texas
I wouldn't recommend WD40 for the lube, it just doesn't stay put nor does it protect the metal good enough. Use a good quality synthetic bearing grease as it'll stay put and keep everything lubed and protected.
 

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
22
0
memphis Tn
I wouldn't recommend WD40 for the lube, it just doesn't stay put nor does it protect the metal good enough. Use a good quality synthetic bearing grease as it'll stay put and keep everything lubed and protected.
^^THIS
WD-40 is NOT meant for long term lubrication. It's fine for flushing and freeing frozen or rusty parts, once you get it working, use grease or oil. WD-40 will dry up quick and leave it dry.
 

Davezilla

New Member
Mar 15, 2014
2,705
10
0
San Antonio Texas
Yeah, that's the same video I saw a while back and that guy Fabian is a good guy and he's very well knowledgeable with these engines and their setups. He hangs out in another forum tho..

For the WD40 issue, I couldn't believe someone would use it as a lube in an area like this, but it does have several good points... I use it for cleaning because it'll leave the part spotless clean if you got nasty greas stains or caked on dirt/grease, let the parts soak in the WD for an hour or so and it'll disolve the grease, burnt oil, road grime etc... Excellent for cleaning parts.
Also takes off decal residue like nothing else, just soak a paper towel with the stuff and put it over the decal residue area and it'll soften it up enough to just wipe off in about 5 minutes... I use this method a lot when taking decals off painted surfaces since it won't harm paint.
It also makes a great starting fluid for diesel engines.

Ok... I better stop because I could easily fill up a whole page or more with what it's good for... lol, but for sure, it's not good for using as a lube
 

ishman

Member
May 19, 2014
55
0
6
Michigan
Finally got a chance to install case gaskets today and it took a total of just 3 to give enough clearance for everything to move smoothly (see pics). Now just have to come up with the correct bracketry to mount my engine in my Townie. I want a nice install, I would like to use one of the billet options if I can make it work. I see a few options, although a bit pricey. I will make it happen somehow.

Ishman
 

Attachments

Davezilla

New Member
Mar 15, 2014
2,705
10
0
San Antonio Texas
There's a member in here who calls himself Massdrive, look him up and see if he can make you a nice set of brackets, his work is top notch and he just recently opened up a store front to sell the stuff he makes, I think he put up a post in the buy/sell/trade section about his new store, but he's pretty easy to find and even easier to talk to... once you see his work you'll know why I'm sending you there..