No more kits that leave you walking!

GoldenMotor.com

2stroker

New Member
Apr 29, 2012
168
0
0
orlando
I want to share with you how to build an extremely reliable motorized bicycle. If you haven't read any (very bad) experiences with China/Grubee parts, you can do so here:

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=37647

Unfortunately, but expectantly, I got burned by the last few parts from China/Grubee I was still using. The chain finally stretched beyond usability and came apart. Of course I was over 10 miles from home. It amazes me how they can engineer their junk to break when you are furthest from your destination. Soon after replacing it, the tensioner pulled into my spokes breaking several of them, and the crappy throttle they sold me broke while installing it on my new friction kit. The admin here didn't give me the last word on the thread I started (cute closing comment Ilikeabikea) but still, those who listened to my advice were rewarded and those who didn't suffered a similar fate as I did I'm sure. I'm sorry, this is not the cheap option. Cost is around $700+shipping. If I were going for the cheaper option I would probably get the Honda kit from flmotorbikes $490 or a Bumble Bee for $250. A strong tire/tube combination as I point out below would also be needed.

Here's the RELIABLE parts list I use:
($250) Bumblebeebolton probally the most reliable cheapest kit out there.
[$325] One Honda GXH50 or other (not made in China engine)
[$160] One Bumblebeebolton Friction Drive Kit 1 1/8" roller (yes, you heard me right, "friction".
Was going to try out the straton engine.
[$130] One centrifugal clutch adapter (you can get fe from Staton also in the hopes of eliminating a mismatch with the fiction kit bell)
[$$$] Any ole' bike frame (hopefully not made in China. Funny fact though, I'm using a old Huffy mountain bike that oddly enough has USA stickers on it. Maybe Huffy was once made in USA? hmm... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huffy)
[$10] One thorn resistant inner tube for the rear (these are heavy and thick in the $10 range)
[$45] One semi-smooth Armadillo tire for the rear (I can't stress how important this is. This is one tough tire that you will need. I read, Continental Grand Prix's are comparable but my local shop carried Armadillo's)
[$30] One optional larger gas tank to get you further down the road before re-fueling

I am so impressed by this bike that I wanted to share it with you. It is hard to believe how long and how far I've gone without breaking down even one time! It's mind boggling. I'm sadden that my $300 EZM Q-matic transmission is now on the shelf, because that is a very nice part. I also still have my brand new untouched Grubee 66cc replacement engine on the shelf that I like to point at with my finger (figuratively) and laugh at as I go in/out of the shed from another long, dependable and very enjoyable ride. "you can't screw me now @#$%^&*@#$! ahahahahahah" or something like that.

Helpful Tips:
* You can rig up a good throttle cable to the Honda GXH50 easily, using the existing linkage and Staton's throttle that comes with their kit
* Do not try saving money on tires/tubes at Wal-(China)-mart or you void this great advice and we absolutely can not be friends!
* Riding in the rain is no problem but you will need to oil the friction roller bearings periodically. (I found that out when the squeaking got pretty loud)
* You will rack up some serious miles so do not forget to change the oil and clean the air filter regularly
* I use a plastic tire liner and and old flat inner tube inside the tire for extra tube protection
* I always carry tools and an extra inner tube just in case. I have not had a flat since using the Armadillo tire/thorn resistant tube
* I have a large knobby mountain bike tire on the front but don't do anything special to prevent flats on it. The rear takes the major abuse, but if you have the cash and get an Armadillo tire and thorn resistant tube for the font, it sure won't hurt
* You can use any tire/rim in a crunch! (before learning the proper tire/tube combination, I had a tire blow out and a flat. Pushed it to my girlfriends and put her old rear tire/rim on my bike and road it home on the friction drive over 8 miles! no messing around with sprockets and chains!)

For those who are the chain-drive-only types, let me say... I was one of you and really expected the chain drive to be superior. But it simply wasn't. I did not think friction was the way to go, but since I've bolted this on from the beginning, it remains untouched from that moment until now. I have been riding it 35+ miles a day to work and everywhere in between reliably without having to work on it, other than for flats until I got that straightened out. I now know this is currently the best and most reliable kit you can buy... so I'm sharing this with you so you won't suffer like I did and you will be able to reliably go from A to B without having to take the bus or waste your time and money.

I hope this helps someone...
 

BarelyAWake

New Member
Jul 21, 2009
7,194
21
0
Maine
TBH, the conclusion seems a bit flawed.

You seem to be comparing the absolute cheapest of all-stock motorized bicycle engine kits (aprox $200 total) to a completely custom creation that's perilously close to $1000 - then denouncing the cheap kit... for being cheap? Then asserting that "chain drives" are inferior based on your experience with that one stock kit?

Of course the cheap kit is cheap, but that doesn't directly relate to a friction drive being superior or inferior to a chain drive or even that "bumblebee" is the only reliable option. While it's worked for you the forum is filled with viable alternates, both two stroke & four, chain & friction, custom & kit.

While I'm sure your new setup has proven to be more reliable and you're obviously pleased with it, many of the issues you've raised are in fact easily & cheaply corrected, even to be expected with such an inexpensive kit. Your three primary complaints against "chain drives" seem to be;

"The chain finally stretched beyond usability and came apart"

A $10 replacement/upgrade chain. http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=14163

"the tensioner pulled into my spokes breaking several of them"

A faulty installation, corrected with a 10¢ fastener, a tack weld or a $3 half-link. http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=11815

"the crappy throttle they sold me broke while installing it on my new friction kit"

A faulty installation & a $12 replacement/upgrade (NAPA 7-03921), http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=42035

Chains require periodic maintenance even replacement, however friction drives also take their toll evidenced by your insistent emphasis on a quality rear tire;

"I can't stress how important this is. This is one tough tire that you will need"

Please make no mistake, I'm not advocating or condemning either the cheap chain drive kit or the friction drive, I'm just pointing out that the comparison is flawed, that for the sake of $25 or less the problems you faced could have been corrected - that for the investment you're advocating higher quality is to be expected be it friction or chain.

Which drive method is "better" for our application is tough to say, it's been a hotly contested debate since they were invented lol - but all things being equal (ie quality & investment) I'd say the chain would require slightly more maintenance (lubrication & adjustment) whereas the friction drive more replacement parts (tires)... my conclusion is simply that such would be up to the builder, their wants & needs.


Insofar as the motor itself, well - you didn't mention having any problems with that but again it's all about the investment, you buy cheap you'll get cheap the drive method notwithstanding.

Just for an example - if absolute reliability is of paramount importance and for the money you're suggesting - much as I dearly love internal combustion engines I would have to somewhat grudgingly admit neither of the above methods can compare to the simplicity of an electric hub drive as there is after all only the one moving part... well, two if you count the throttle lol but hey, that too "would be up to the builder, their wants & needs." ;)
 
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abikerider

New Member
Jul 7, 2008
219
0
0
Sacramento, CA
My EZ Motorbike kit is super reliable and considerably cheaper at $600. The only mod it really needs is a better chain tensioner like Phantom Bikes sells for $35 or you can make something similar yourself. I made mine out of some 3/16" x 1-1/2" aluminum bar for around $10. I also like to use a hub mounted sprocket adapter and sprocket so that adds $100. I don't like friction drives because they interfere with having a rack with bags for carrying stuff. The friction drives also the put the weight too far to the rear so handling is compromised. Plus the center mounted engine looks better too. (^)
 
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Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Jan 8, 2008
11,837
252
63
up north now
I have built numerous bikes and all but one were the "cheap Chinese" variety. I have put thousands and thousands of miles on them, one, my dad still rides to this day, and I don't have any idea how many miles are on it, but his "maintenance routine" consists of oiling the chain one a week whether it needs it or not.

I have NEVER BEEN LEFT STRANDED, OR WALKING. (except the time I ran out of gas). I have NEVER spend over 300 dollars on a completed bike.

Don't believe all the "you gotta have " hype.

Just take your time, and build the bike right.
 
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JonnyR

New Member
May 13, 2012
1,203
1
0
37
ronkonkoma, new york
i am feeling that the 2 stroke quality isnt there currently i love my 66cc HT when its running good its fast and powerfull but im going to build a 4 stroke at this point so i dont have as many "down" days when i want to ride but cant unless i have the part i need (have 2 engines for parts replacement)but if i dont have them i need to wait a week for them to come from California and hope to get the right ones from them or its another week
 

Mike B

New Member
Mar 23, 2011
2,256
7
0
Central CA
I built a happy time. It runs good. I'm going to sell it.

Left me stranded twice. I'll never build another.



Gotta love a eighth inch offset in the motor mount. If this is what the outside of the motor looks like...

These things are a joke.

Onward and upward.
 

2stroker

New Member
Apr 29, 2012
168
0
0
orlando
TBH, the conclusion seems a bit flawed.

You seem to be comparing the absolute cheapest of all-stock motorized bicycle engine kits (aprox $200 total) to a completely custom creation that's perilously close to $1000 - then denouncing the cheap kit... for being cheap? Then asserting that "chain drives" are inferior based on your experience with that one stock kit?

Of course the cheap kit is cheap, but that doesn't directly relate to a friction drive being superior or inferior to a chain drive or even that "bumblebee" is the only reliable option. While it's worked for you the forum is filled with viable alternates, both two stroke & four, chain & friction, custom & kit.

While I'm sure your new setup has proven to be more reliable and you're obviously pleased with it, many of the issues you've raised are in fact easily & cheaply corrected, even to be expected with such an inexpensive kit. Your three primary complaints against "chain drives" seem to be;

"The chain finally stretched beyond usability and came apart"

A $10 replacement/upgrade chain. http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=14163

"the tensioner pulled into my spokes breaking several of them"

A faulty installation, corrected with a 10¢ fastener, a tack weld or a $3 half-link. http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=11815

"the crappy throttle they sold me broke while installing it on my new friction kit"

A faulty installation & a $12 replacement/upgrade (NAPA 7-03921), http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=42035

Chains require periodic maintenance even replacement, however friction drives also take their toll evidenced by your insistent emphasis on a quality rear tire;

"I can't stress how important this is. This is one tough tire that you will need"

Please make no mistake, I'm not advocating or condemning either the cheap chain drive kit or the friction drive, I'm just pointing out that the comparison is flawed, that for the sake of $25 or less the problems you faced could have been corrected - that for the investment you're advocating higher quality is to be expected be it friction or chain.

Which drive method is "better" for our application is tough to say, it's been a hotly contested debate since they were invented lol - but all things being equal (ie quality & investment) I'd say the chain would require slightly more maintenance (lubrication & adjustment) whereas the friction drive more replacement parts (tires)... my conclusion is simply that such would be up to the builder, their wants & needs.


Insofar as the motor itself, well - you didn't mention having any problems with that but again it's all about the investment, you buy cheap you'll get cheap the drive method notwithstanding.

Just for an example - if absolute reliability is of paramount importance and for the money you're suggesting - much as I dearly love internal combustion engines I would have to somewhat grudgingly admit neither of the above methods can compare to the simplicity of an electric hub drive as there is after all only the one moving part... well, two if you count the throttle lol but hey, that too "would be up to the builder, their wants & needs." ;)
i personally like to just install my kit in 15min and ride all i want. but some people like to tinker. if thats you then go for it. good feed back thanks!.wee.
 

Huffydavidson

STREETRACER/MANUFACTURER
Jan 29, 2012
1,076
4
38
st.louis,mo.
it's part of the hobby if you break down .would you blame the tire manufacture cause you ran over a nail ? if you can't take the heat step out of the kitchen .who wants cheese to go with their mad dog whining ?what's the baby gonna do if you're doing all the crying ?
 

fatdaddy

New Member
May 4, 2011
1,516
4
0
San Jose, Ca.
Try rebuilding a F'uped 4 stroke in one afternoon for $40. I rode my first 2 stroke for 2 years untill I sold it to a friend, no problems. My current bike, a 2 stroke of course, has been doing fine for almost a year. Only one flat and one wreck, my fault on both. I ride pretty much WOT everywhere I go. When it blows, if ever, I'll just put another $40 or so into it and ride it for another several years. Maintenance is the key on ANYTHING.
fatdaddy.
 

2stroker

New Member
Apr 29, 2012
168
0
0
orlando
Since they're just re-selling the Staton kit so why not save more and get it from Staton for $80 less?

Friction drives have their merits but they all slip on wet pavement.
That sounds better $80 less..My bumblebeebolton has the urethane drive wheel and it works ok in the rain its not to bad..it does slip alittle but all i have to do is tighten my bungee takes about 1min and its good to go..it rides around 20mph in the rain instead of 30..not to bad for a friction. i like it because you can easily adjust the tension on the drive wheel..its only $250 kit so they are in a good price range..i think they are one of the only kits that can compete with the china kts going for $179. If the china kits were a more reliable they would be excellent kits. i have had a few myself i just didnt really care for em..i dont tinkering that much..atleast not on my ride to work! I build slot cars and boat motors stuff like that..
 

2stroker

New Member
Apr 29, 2012
168
0
0
orlando
it's part of the hobby if you break down .would you blame the tire manufacture cause you ran over a nail ? if you can't take the heat step out of the kitchen .who wants cheese to go with their mad dog whining ?what's the baby gonna do if you're doing all the crying ?
Lol..It doesn't have to be part of the hobbie..breaking down all the time..you could be out riding having a blast like me!! But to each his own..I just see alot of people pedaling there bikes with center mounted chain kits on em.. it seems kinda pointless when you could be actually enjoying yourself on your motorized bike..

If im gonna have a chain drive bike im gonna get something made for it..Its called a motorcycle..bicycles shouldn't be going over 30mph thats just dangerous..your wally bikes aren't made to hold up to that.
 

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Jan 8, 2008
11,837
252
63
up north now
If you'd build the bike the right way, and do basic maintenance, "breaking down all the time" is not part of the hobby.
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
3
38
Lebanon, PA
If you'd build the bike the right way, and do basic maintenance, "breaking down all the time" is not part of the hobby.
People keep telling him that, Joe, but have you noticed he never acknowledges it? He just keeps repeating how unreliable the china kits are, and cockily talking about how reliable his bike/kit is. The truth is that he did not want to bother replacing the parts in his kit that broke, research/learn how to put a china kit together properly, or come here asking for advice. He just wanted to b!tch and moan about how junky the china kits are. The actual truth of the matter is that any machine is only as good as its mechanic, but he doesn't want to hear that. He wants to live in his own little world in his mind where he is right and anyone who doesnt agree with him is wrong, so much so that he doesnt even think it necessary to acknowledge any opinion that differs from his own.