Rear sprocket/rag joint position.

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Eric2.0

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Sep 22, 2010
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Cranbrook with Stinger 66cc, engine mounted and solid. We are now fitting the rear sprocket to the spokes and fitting chain. Problem is.... The sprocket is chrome on one side and unfinished on other, but instructions appear to say have the chrome side toward the spokes. It makes no sense like that. Seems the chrome was meant to be looked at from the outside.

So we are stuck and I am going to cheat... Which way do I put it?

Thanks, buds.
 
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Eric2.0

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Sep 22, 2010
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Another thing.

The rag joint I assume fits like this?

From the inside of the wheel to outer..

#1 metal retainer plates

#2 rubber isolator

#3 spokes

#4 another rubber isolator

#5 sprocket/bolts.
 
Goat Herder

Goat Herder

Gutter Rider
Apr 28, 2008
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That would be correct. Slowly tighten your hard ware in a star pattern observing keeping the sprocket straight.

Most folks find that they want the dished side out. If you don't get the sprocket straight the chain will give you problems.
 
2door

2door

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Sep 15, 2008
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It doesn't make any difference about which side is shiny (chrome). Your concern should be if the sprocket is dished or not. By "dished" I mean on some sprockets the teeth are offset to one side. You'll want the teeth offset to the outside of the wheel. This will give you better chain to tire clearance and will probably align with the engine sprocket better. If the shiny side is the dished out side, so much the better but if not a few minutes on a buffing wheel will bring out the shine on the unbuffed side. Just get the teeth outboard from the center of the rear hub.
Tom
 
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Eric2.0

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Sep 22, 2010
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Well looks like the dished side is best on the outside.

New problem!

I got the sprocket on well and then went to put the axle and bearings back in the hub. Everything was smooth, but the bearing cap(on the left side is to big to go through the hole in the sprocket therefor I cannot get the bearing seated properly. Looks like I have to hone out the hole in the sprocket so the bearing cap will fit through it.

I could put the hub in first then the sprocket on top of it, but I don't think it will work and would make bearing maintenance a little harder.
 
2door

2door

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Eric2.0 said:
I guess so. It's the brakes where you kick the pedals back to stop.
Click to expand...
That's 'Coaster Brakes' and yes you'll probably have to do a little modification to the dust cap which is covered in the thread offered above. Another problem you could encounter is the brake arm might require a slight 'Z' bend to clear the sprocket bolt heads. This can be done easily in a bench vice. Good luck.
Tom
 
biknut

biknut

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Sep 28, 2010
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Personally I would rather grind the hole in the sprocket bigger than mess with the bearing dust cap.

If you have to bend the coaster brake arm, it's easier if you heat it up with a propane torch first.
 
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Eric2.0

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Sep 22, 2010
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Ha, I know now exactly what you all are saying. I took a Dremel tool with a grind stone and reamed out the sprocket hole just enough. The Dremel worked great. And yes the brake arm hit the sprocket bolt heads after the cap went through. I simply took out the washers under the bolt heads and that did the trick as it gave more clearance. However, I am going to bend it out just a little more for safety sakes so I know the arm won't hit the bolt heads ever.

I have the hub, sprocket all together and mounted back on the bike and I hand pedaled it around and it seems ok. Just a little wobble on the sprocket I'll have to mess with to get perfect. At least now I know what's going on.

Thanks, buds.
 
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Eric2.0

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Sep 22, 2010
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Hammond Egger said:
Just curious, did you use the three piece or the two piece retainer plates and why?
Click to expand...

If yo umean the backer plate on the backside of the rag-joint, I used the two piece plates, because that is what I got in my kit. I never saw a three piece.
 
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