My Schwinn cruiser mount.
- Thread starter Nomad
- Start date
Nice job Nomad. Very clean. I always have trouble keeping the bike chain guard. I was thinking a block of wood or rubber on the rear mount between the engine and the spacer/half moon thing that holds the back str8. Yours looks better. Thanks!
Dan, thanks, I originally had tire tube pieces insulating the mounts but they allowed the engine to move rt/left and "wallow" in the mounts so I removed the rubber and mounted "hard" to the frame.. a little more vibration, but that engine is really solid on there, and NO movement...
Was the front tube narrow enough for the mounting bolts to go around without bending them? I have a Schwinn Jaguar with a wide front tube.
Hi General, yes the front tube is the same as the rear tube and the fit is exact... I looked at the Jaguar also and realized that the front would present a challeng to get a secure fit, I would NOT use a single bolt in a drilled hole in the front tube.... there are other large tube adapters available from BGF on ebay.....
Nomad I am building a Schwinn Point Beach today. How long are your front mounting bolts? How did you secure the back mounts? Pics? Your ride Rocks . Tramp
Thanks Tramp, I got the studs/bolts from Ace Hardware. they are 3 7/8" long. The studs you see in the pic are just straight stud stock, today I was in Ace and picked up some grade 8.8 bolts which are equal to about SAE 5, I believe this is adequate for mounting engine since the SAE 8 are more brittle and may "shear" with less force than the SAE 5.. If there are any engineer types out there please chime in if my info is incorrect of if you have another opinion.. Tramp the pic is also of a "pillow block" stamping I got from Tractor Supply I bet this will come in handy with that Point Beach with some heavy rubber sheet in between the frame and the block.. ... I will cut the heads off the bolts and install them I think the studs are SAE 5 but not sure...the rear studs are the same length and I bolted the rear mount flush with the rear downtube I did not cut them off.. I will post pics tomorrow of rear mount... ride safe... enjoy...
Last edited:
Oh thanks SO much for the advice! Will make a better cleaner looking bike. This is what our forum is about, Bikers helping each other! Thanks again, Mark M&S Cycles
that looks great...how is this holding up...did you retap the mount bolts...also grade 8s going into the casing might not be the answer...chinese metal isnt to good...let me know how things work out...thanks for the pics
thanks...i have one more ???Ha...i'm building a new bike...v frame aluminum...triple butted gary fisher...the large tube is 1.7 radius...the seat tube is 1.375 radius...i seen your pic on the pillow block stamps...great pic...but i need them bigger...checked out grainger, etc., cannt find them...do you have anything in your arsenial that might help me...thank you...dennis
Dennis, I have a Gary Fisher too, it's a Kaitai,,,, I tried this mount for fit on it and it looks good ... haven't built it yet.... Tractor supply also has these "clamp blocks" in larger sizes also.....
For Tramp.. hers is a pic of the rear mount... I have since removed the rubber insert between frame and mount...
Bob
For Tramp.. hers is a pic of the rear mount... I have since removed the rubber insert between frame and mount...
Bob
Last edited:
With all the intrest in the mounts I have asked a friend to help me. He said Tig, Mig, Plasma, And I said No thanks on the Plasma, I gave already, 
We are working on a standard mount for the "Crusiers Everyone" can afford! Please give me a little time. Tramp 
We are working on a standard mount for the "Crusiers Everyone" can afford! Please give me a little time. Tramp
You rock TrampSirWith all the intrest in the mounts I have asked a friend to help me. He said Tig, Mig, Plasma, And I said No thanks on the Plasma, I gave already,
