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Motorized Mountain Bikes and Road Bikes Motorize a full suspension mountain bike to get a smother ride or for a little more speed try motorized road bicycles. This section is for sharing ideas on motorizing your mountain and road bikes.

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  #1  
Old 05-30-2016, 03:36 PM
jeffyh jeffyh is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Madison, NJ
Posts: 53
Default Finally "done" with my build :)

It's been a long journey building a motorized bike from a Fixie/single speed flip-flop hub frame but for all intents and purposes I'm done. I gotta give thanks to the people on this forum; You people are awesome and helped me a lot! It started as a manged mess First Build: issues, but it got there. I can see why there are recommended bikes to use as a build...

Things I had to do to make this "work" and look pretty...
  • Sproket welded to a fixie gear and held on with a lock ring (hub spoke number wasn't compatible with pineapple rag joint and hub wasn't shaped to take the clamp type)
  • Throttle cable kit to get rid of excess length
  • All cables/wires run along frame in heat shrink tubing
  • Magneto and CDI connections using bullet quickdisconnects (went through 2 each in the time it took to build)
  • Soldered the spark plug boot connector to the wire core
  • Back brake (NEED MORE BRAKING)
  • Dual brake handle with ~60/40% distribution
  • Better brake pads (NEED MORE BRAKING)
  • Painted random parts flat black
  • Short filter (had longer angled filter before)
  • Intake offset to fit filter (smoother power over stock)
  • Velocity stack for carb
  • Headlight
  • Rear brake light
  • Rear fender (rooster tail is ridic in the rain at speeds)
  • Wider BB for crankarm clearance past engine casing
  • Crank sproket mounted on inside to keep proper chain line
  • Bent muffler to follow downtube angle
  • Bent chain guide so the pulley was parallel to the chain

To Do's:
  • Still can't tune carb to idle properly or have smooth power throughout throttle range.
  • Better chain guide that sits in line with the chain
  • Less consipicuous fuel tank

CONSIDERATIONS:
  • Down/seat tube angle is horrible for mounting. You will need to bend an aftermarket front mount to get it to sit right.
  • Above issue causes chainline issues. You NEED a chain guide, because the chain on the lower side of the engine sproket will hit the casing
  • Make sure your hub is compatible!!!
  • Wider tires would be nicer... Things are kindof sketchy at top speed on 23mm.
  • Keep tires properly inflated if running skinnies. Sidewall flex is no joke and can get you into some scary situations in turns.

Just wanted to share some pics of my build. If you're running into issues trying to build up a single speed/fixie, feel free to shoot a message my way and hopefully I can help.

All in all, super fun to build and even more to ride!

IMG_20160530_145920.jpg
IMG_20160530_150030.jpg

Last edited by jeffyh; 10-15-2016 at 12:33 AM.
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  #2  
Old 05-30-2016, 04:20 PM
Alpha Centauri Alpha Centauri is offline
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 27
Default Re: Finally "done" with my build :)

Looks bada$$! Now all you need is an expansion chamber and either a Walbro or an NT speed carb.
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Old 05-30-2016, 04:26 PM
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Chaz Chaz is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
Posts: 718
Default Re: Finally "done" with my build :)

I remember this build. Quite a complicated endevour. Glad to see you got it going and it looks nice. I think the tank looks fine.
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  #4  
Old 05-30-2016, 07:41 PM
jeffyh jeffyh is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Madison, NJ
Posts: 53
Default Re: Finally "done" with my build :)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaz View Post
I remember this build. Quite a complicated endevour. Glad to see you got it going and it looks nice. I think the tank looks fine.
Haha, yup. "Running". Thanks for the help, man. Advice from you and 2door were paramount. I'm still trying to figure out how to clean the chain line. Totally get why you said to get rid of the tensioner. I think it's just a futile effort cause of the bike choice.

Tank looks fine, but I want less conspicuous and less spilly. I barely keep it a 1/4 full and fuel always manages to find a way out on the turns. Was trying to figure out something to mount on the underside of the top tube that would withstand fuel and tapping for the valve and a screw on breather cap.
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Old 05-31-2016, 05:47 AM
bluck bluck is offline
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: California
Posts: 58
Default Re: Finally "done" with my build :)

Awesome bike I always thought that building on a fixie would be pretty simple only cuz it has a V frame, small frame tubes, and cuz its a simple bike. I guess I was mistaken.
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Old 05-31-2016, 11:09 AM
jeffyh jeffyh is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Madison, NJ
Posts: 53
Default Re: Finally "done" with my build :)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluck View Post
Awesome bike I always thought that building on a fixie would be pretty simple only cuz it has a V frame, small frame tubes, and cuz its a simple bike. I guess I was mistaken.
It probably could be so don't let that discourage you. I just bought any random bike not paying attention to geometry or hub pattern. Those really were the only source of the blockers. The rest is just added value.
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Old 05-31-2016, 11:25 AM
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Kioshk Kioshk is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,105
Default Re: Finally "done" with my build :)

Good to see you solved your sprocket issues. I would recommend that you lower the tenstioner-wheel to its lowest-setting and move the assembly back on the chain-stay. This will lower the chances of the assembly being pulled into the spokes, and will provide a little extra "bite" on the sprocket. It'll also give you the ability to take up slack by raising the tensioner-wheel as the sprocket wears.
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  #8  
Old 05-31-2016, 12:31 PM
jeffyh jeffyh is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Madison, NJ
Posts: 53
Default Re: Finally "done" with my build :)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kioshk View Post
Good to see you solved your sprocket issues. I would recommend that you lower the tenstioner-wheel to its lowest-setting and move the assembly back on the chain-stay. This will lower the chances of the assembly being pulled into the spokes, and will provide a little extra "bite" on the sprocket. It'll also give you the ability to take up slack by raising the tensioner-wheel as the sprocket wears.
Thanks, it's on the list of to-do's as it's once again a problem cause of the frame, lol. The chain stay is so radically angled from the seat tube to the hub that to get anything close to a proper chain/pulley alignment that's where it has to be currently. There's a piece of bike tube around the chainstay that keeps it from moving. I started bending the chainguide, but I can't figure out an easy way to adjust it in a way that it angles to compensate for the chainstay angle and a S-bend to have it closer to the wheel. I've played with mounting it backwards, spacers, etc. Essentially, it all comes down to being able to properly manipulate that tough piece of metal. Been looking into better chain guide solutions. If you have any recs, I'd be grateful.

Last edited by jeffyh; 05-31-2016 at 12:34 PM.
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  #9  
Old 07-11-2016, 11:36 AM
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totalnewb totalnewb is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Flemingsburg, Kentucky
Posts: 104
Default Re: Finally "done" with my build :)

Better get a new fuel line asap, that looks like one that comes with the kit. Mine has fallen off twice, it hardens as it ages. I'm going to get a new one this week.

Is your clutch handle on your throttle hand? I can't tell but that might not work out so well.

The bike looks nice!
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  #10  
Old 07-11-2016, 11:38 AM
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totalnewb totalnewb is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Flemingsburg, Kentucky
Posts: 104
Default Re: Finally "done" with my build :)

OK, no on the clutch so sorry about that.

That looks like a dual front/rear brake, cool concept, I'm unfamiliar with these and would like to know more.
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