If ya've never
spray-bombed before, I dunno if ya wanna have a bike as your very first attempt as it's all tubing - the hardest
surface to paint uniformly. I'm not sayin' "don't do it" but I really think you'd benefit from pickin' up a few cans of the cheap stuff and practice painting... something you don't care too much about lol. Check out youtube's thousands of vids about spray painting for technique - even the graffiti guys. You'll notice their "pifft, pifft, pifft" style - gently "airbrushing" by repeatedly pushing down and releasing the spray nozzle, not
just holding it down and coating everythin' in one shot... excepting the last coat where uniformity is key to a nice gloss finish, even then it's long passes off the edges of the project, releasing and doing it again - that's the stage were practice is so needful.
I wish I could describe it better... but it's hard w/o a vid lol
Sand it down or Use chemicals to strip the paint, and use tools with wire brush attachment.
I never recommended chemical strippers or even sanding to strip ALL paint - that's the side-handle grinder w/a wire wheel attachment's job. I've used chemical strippers a bunch (was my job for quite a while) and there's no way in heck it's worth the toxic mess and pain in the butt cleanup for something like a bike. The better the stuff it is - the nastier
it is... and trust me, it's freakin' NASTY business. Still, if anyone is interested for w/e reason, some of the best stuff I've used is the rather oddly named Aircraft Paint Remover
- but again, it's bad, bad, BAD stuff, stay away from it unless you've no other choice... It certainly isn't any easier in the long run than a high-speed wire brush, which you'd prolly need to use even with paint stripper lol
(sorry Joe - I jus' noticed it was you that recoed chemical strippers... to each their own lol, there's defo more than one "right" way to do things and that's a fact, but I still try and avoid the toxic death heh)
then spray primer dry it then sand it down to refine it and repeat 3 times.
Sanding the primer coat is only "as needed" - you may get lucky and get it perfect the first try, or ya might need a buncha coats with fine grit sanding wherever needed... if you've skillz, it tends to be three coats or less - but it's totally job-specific and depends entirely on your standards... Ima picky SOB heh
then spray my Color choice Of rattle cans. Do i sand it?
Sanding between color coats is... tricky with spray paint is it's far softer and thus more "gummy" than say yer standard auto paint. Drying time is critical
because of this. Spray a coat in the cool shade - out of direct sunlight (or you'll get wild variations 'cause the paint is drying bfore you've finished the coat) then move it into the sun to "bake" the finish, or ya can use strong halogen worklights focused on the project to get the same effect (no closer than say two feet) - and/or just be patient and let it cure overnight (at least 60 degrees F w/o a lot of humidity). Then you can wetsand with 320gt or finer as needed. Remember - if the paper develops "gumballs" stop - it's not ready to sand yet.
Still - sanding between color coats is the same as "needing" to sand between primer coats, while it will provide a superior finish, it's only "necessary" if you wanna do it - or you've got drips and runs to fix.
then spray again.
*shrug* again - it's project specific and depends on whatcha want. I'd not be happy with less than three coats as I tend to use the first color coat as a "base" to spot imperfections and sand as needed, then a "filler" coat to build up the paint to help w/scratch resistance (this coat is not
any thicker/heavier, remember - multiple thin coats better than one thick) and sand only if needed, then my shiny "topcoat" the one that's supposed
to be "perfect" heh
then clear coat.
& Oh yea what type of clear coat do i use and do i have to put a clear coat?
rattlecan clear coats... actually come to think on it - I hate ALL clear coats lol They're a serious pain, overrated and tend to yellow and peel with age. I'm not sure but few (if any) are even fuel resistant. While some can have nice results - I wouldn't bother given the ease of simply waxing to achieve such a desired effect. People often don't realize this but wax is actually far more a protective layer than a simple cosmetic addition or an excuse to hang out by yer car ona weekend.
Containing UV deterrents and being "ablative" it's slick surface helps to prevent damage to the paint itself and it's easily fixed up with just a soft cloth, whereas with a clearcoat yer lookin' at strippin' down the bike to sand and repaint, even if it's just the clearcoat that's messed up.
This stuff is by FAR the most incredible wax I've ever used and with a bicycle - a $12 16oz bottle will last ya a lifetime lol: 3M Marine Liquid Wax part# 09026