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  #11  
Old 03-09-2010, 06:17 PM
Bikeguy Joe Bikeguy Joe is offline
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Default re: How to repaint a bike frame

I will add that I have successfully used chemical stripper, fast, easy, and no dust!
You can strip just the paint and leave the primer if you want.
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  #12  
Old 03-09-2010, 06:19 PM
Bikeguy Joe Bikeguy Joe is offline
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Default re: How to repaint a bike frame

Also, I use automotive spot putty to fill in the boo boo's.
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  #13  
Old 03-09-2010, 06:31 PM
Steve M Steve M is offline
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Default re: How to repaint a bike frame

Great job BarleyAwake!
Steve.
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  #14  
Old 03-09-2010, 08:17 PM
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OrangeBrian OrangeBrian is offline
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Default re: How to repaint a bike frame

thanks BarleyAwake I think Ima do this over the spring break to keep me working not to just stay online the whole day. Alos to answer some of the questions i am doing rattle type spry but i just didnt know what type to use and i dont know how to paint period.

by reading what you said I got this: Sand it down or Use chemicals to strip the paint, and use tools with wire brush attachment.
then spray primer dry it then sand it down to refine it and repeat 3 times.
then spray my Color choice Of rattle cans. Do i sand it?
then spray again.
then clear coat.

Oh yea what type of clear coat do i use and do i have to put a clear coat?
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  #15  
Old 03-10-2010, 07:01 AM
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BarelyAWake BarelyAWake is offline
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Default re: How to repaint a bike frame

If ya've never spray-bombed before, I dunno if ya wanna have a bike as your very first attempt as it's all tubing - the hardest surface to paint uniformly. I'm not sayin' "don't do it" but I really think you'd benefit from pickin' up a few cans of the cheap stuff and practice painting... something you don't care too much about lol. Check out youtube's thousands of vids about spray painting for technique - even the graffiti guys. You'll notice their "pifft, pifft, pifft" style - gently "airbrushing" by repeatedly pushing down and releasing the spray nozzle, not just holding it down and coating everythin' in one shot... excepting the last coat where uniformity is key to a nice gloss finish, even then it's long passes off the edges of the project, releasing and doing it again - that's the stage were practice is so needful.

I wish I could describe it better... but it's hard w/o a vid lol


Sand it down or Use chemicals to strip the paint, and use tools with wire brush attachment.

I never recommended chemical strippers or even sanding to strip ALL paint - that's the side-handle grinder w/a wire wheel attachment's job. I've used chemical strippers a bunch (was my job for quite a while) and there's no way in heck it's worth the toxic mess and pain in the butt cleanup for something like a bike. The better the stuff it is - the nastier it is... and trust me, it's freakin' NASTY business. Still, if anyone is interested for w/e reason, some of the best stuff I've used is the rather oddly named Aircraft Paint Remover - but again, it's bad, bad, BAD stuff, stay away from it unless you've no other choice... It certainly isn't any easier in the long run than a high-speed wire brush, which you'd prolly need to use even with paint stripper lol

(sorry Joe - I jus' noticed it was you that recoed chemical strippers... to each their own lol, there's defo more than one "right" way to do things and that's a fact, but I still try and avoid the toxic death heh)

then spray primer dry it then sand it down to refine it and repeat 3 times.

Sanding the primer coat is only "as needed" - you may get lucky and get it perfect the first try, or ya might need a buncha coats with fine grit sanding wherever needed... if you've skillz, it tends to be three coats or less - but it's totally job-specific and depends entirely on your standards... Ima picky SOB heh

then spray my Color choice Of rattle cans. Do i sand it?

Sanding between color coats is... tricky with spray paint is it's far softer and thus more "gummy" than say yer standard auto paint. Drying time is critical because of this. Spray a coat in the cool shade - out of direct sunlight (or you'll get wild variations 'cause the paint is drying bfore you've finished the coat) then move it into the sun to "bake" the finish, or ya can use strong halogen worklights focused on the project to get the same effect (no closer than say two feet) - and/or just be patient and let it cure overnight (at least 60 degrees F w/o a lot of humidity). Then you can wetsand with 320gt or finer as needed. Remember - if the paper develops "gumballs" stop - it's not ready to sand yet.

Still - sanding between color coats is the same as "needing" to sand between primer coats, while it will provide a superior finish, it's only "necessary" if you wanna do it - or you've got drips and runs to fix.

then spray again.

*shrug* again - it's project specific and depends on whatcha want. I'd not be happy with less than three coats as I tend to use the first color coat as a "base" to spot imperfections and sand as needed, then a "filler" coat to build up the paint to help w/scratch resistance (this coat is not any thicker/heavier, remember - multiple thin coats better than one thick) and sand only if needed, then my shiny "topcoat" the one that's supposed to be "perfect" heh

then clear coat. & Oh yea what type of clear coat do i use and do i have to put a clear coat?

I loathe rattlecan clear coats... actually come to think on it - I hate ALL clear coats lol They're a serious pain, overrated and tend to yellow and peel with age. I'm not sure but few (if any) are even fuel resistant. While some can have nice results - I wouldn't bother given the ease of simply waxing to achieve such a desired effect. People often don't realize this but wax is actually far more a protective layer than a simple cosmetic addition or an excuse to hang out by yer car ona weekend.

Containing UV deterrents and being "ablative" it's slick surface helps to prevent damage to the paint itself and it's easily fixed up with just a soft cloth, whereas with a clearcoat yer lookin' at strippin' down the bike to sand and repaint, even if it's just the clearcoat that's messed up.

This stuff is by FAR the most incredible wax I've ever used and with a bicycle - a $12 16oz bottle will last ya a lifetime lol: 3M Marine Liquid Wax part# 09026

Last edited by BarelyAWake; 03-10-2010 at 07:25 AM.
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  #16  
Old 03-10-2010, 08:23 PM
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DonBrouhaha DonBrouhaha is offline
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Default re: How to repaint a bike frame

In the comments on the Instructables page - a fellow posted a pic of his paint job

I have mixed feelings about the color, but I bet it was a fast job

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...7/magic008.jpg


Last edited by DonBrouhaha; 03-10-2010 at 08:37 PM.
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  #17  
Old 03-11-2010, 03:23 AM
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OrangeBrian OrangeBrian is offline
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Default re: How to repaint a bike frame

im ust going to wet sand it
spary with white primer
spray my neon orange
then wax.....
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  #18  
Old 03-11-2010, 03:29 AM
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BarelyAWake BarelyAWake is offline
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Default re: How to repaint a bike frame

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonBrouhaha View Post
In the comments on the Instructables page - a fellow posted a pic of his paint job

I have mixed feelings about the color, but I bet it was a fast job
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...7/magic008.jpg
HA! Talk about a "nice uniform coat"

Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeBrian View Post
im ust going to wet sand it
spary with white primer
spray my neon orange
then wax.....
Sounds lika plan OrangeBrian - and now yer name makes sense ta me heh
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  #19  
Old 03-11-2010, 03:37 AM
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OrangeBrian OrangeBrian is offline
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Default re: How to repaint a bike frame

heheheh orange has been my favorite color since 2nd grade hehehehe ive always wanted something that i can relate to and thats orange hehehe... i started riding a bike since i was 3 so my bike is my life. and i said to myself if my bike aint working i aint going anywhere. so yea

also withe the in between parts of working on repainting the bike
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  #20  
Old 03-11-2010, 04:03 AM
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BarelyAWake BarelyAWake is offline
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Default re: How to repaint a bike frame

Another tip - don't get too attached to any one coat as ya can jus' sand it a bit and do it again... Murphy's Law dictates that the harder ya try for perfection the more likely ya'll mess it up somehow heh

With the wax thing - ya only wanna do that ifn yer 100% convinced it's "perfect" and the last yer gonna paint it as you're contaminating the heck outa the surface with the wax. I only mentioned wax as an alternative to the troublesome clearcoats - I don't use either TBH. Should ya decide the super-shiny is too hard to resist and go ahead and wax yer bike (which is ossum too), if ya wanna re-paint it it could be a nightmare to try and "clean" the wax off by just sanding and/or acetone as both just smear it around and don't clean wax very well - the better the wax the tougher it is... that's it's job after all. If ya hunt around a bit there's some handy & really good de-waxing solvent available, used mostly for prepping boat hulls for paint (gelcoat has wax embedded in it), check any local marinas for the good stuff or include "hull" as a keyword in a google search. There's stuff available for cars too - it just isn't quite as good... it'll work tho.

Although I try and paint my bike as spiffy as I can - I'm well aware that as much as I ride, the paint job is somewhat "disposable" and no matter how careful I am, it's gonna get all messed up pretty quick. With that thought in mind I detail high-wear areas (rear rack, dropouts, chain guard, etc) with a different color semi-gloss which hides imperfections better and is easy to "touch up" as needed. As I use a semi-gloss black to do this on my bike I can cheat even more and use a quality paint marker for those lil touch-ups (fasteners marred frm workin' on the bike etc.), it's a heck of a lot simpler than breakin' out the rattle-can and maskin' off everythin' for one lil spot.

Ifn ya ride a lot then yer prolly lookin' at tearin' the bike down in the winter for a quick repaint, gotta have it lookin' sweet come springtime right?
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