Also would someone know where I can get a good quality chain breaker for a good price that's not to expensive?
Could someone Please help me with my screws?
- Thread starter El Bandito
- Start date
I think today is the day that I finish my 1st build on my 1st bike! I got all my screws and everything is mounted on. Now I just need to drill the hole for the throttle and put on the clutch cable and I'm done. Thank you all so much for helping me out with my problems and questions and concerns.
Bandit, let us know how things go. If you have any problems we're always here to help.
Good luck, have fun and ride safe.
Tom
Good luck, have fun and ride safe.
Tom
Well as expected a problem arose, the tip of the throttle cable that goes into the carburetor broke somehow even though I hardly turned the handle at all. Thank goodness nothing else seems broken. Anyone know where I can purchase a throttle cable? Would Amazon be a good place? Or could I purchase one from one of these websites one the side this website?
Sounds like you got a faulty cable. You can get a replacement from amazon or any vendor on this site. Benicia sounds like you might be in California so you may be near one of the vendors. Or you could take the cable down to a motorcycle shop near you and get a replacement. Or get a little blob welded on the end which you could file to the right shape. Lots of options, just depends how quick you need the part. good luck
There are 3 covers on these engines, the clutch actuator cover, the mag cover, and the clutch plate or clutch gear cover depending on the shop they may call them one or the other but they usually sell them in 3 piece sets for fairly cheap unless you want to go billet, then they can get a little pricy... some sellers also sell the individual stock covers but most of them won't break the set, but at least they're fairly cheap and it never hurts to have spares.
So it appears that it was the clutch actuator cover was the one that I drilled in at a wrong angle, but my friend says it's OK to still use, Thank you for helping me out on that. Also yesterday I forgot to report but the screw that holds the clutch cable in place was so weak that the head broke off. That was a good and bad thing, good because it won't come off and it is holding the cable tight. Bad, well because now the rest of the screw won't come out. Chaz, thank you very much for helping me with the problem on the throttle cable.
You are most welcome Bandito. Glad to hear you are making progress. You're going to have a blast when you get it going. There will be little bugs to work out as you get riding but lots of help here. Good news you can still use that cover. You've probably already figured out that you can pop a washer under the bolt/screw head to make up for a widened hole.
keep at it and let us know
keep at it and let us know
An easier way to get muffler clearance is to simply drill out the holes a size or two bigger. This allows the pipe to rotate for pedal clearance and is MUCH easier and safer than bending it.
Thank you Chaz and maniac57, In the end I actually did a bit of both of your solutions for the muffler. Now the only issue as far as I can tell is getting a new throttle cable, a new screw for the clutch cable when it is needed, remove 2 or 3 chain links and to solve my gas cap problem.
My gas cap problem is a big problem. For no reason, my gas cap won't turn to close, either because the springs are too tight or the part where I turn the cap on is too tight/ too small. I really have no idea at all and it's frustrating.
My gas cap problem is a big problem. For no reason, my gas cap won't turn to close, either because the springs are too tight or the part where I turn the cap on is too tight/ too small. I really have no idea at all and it's frustrating.
Bandito, Your gas cap probably looks exactly like this
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/...EqSbkfd9tsaPZzL6Akc3wn-Cq0bqjBpt4qs2pVAOTDobA
Maybe you need to file the two tangs down a bit or carefully remove the rubber washer under those tangs and replace it with one that you have cut from an old inner tube. Or a combination of both.
if the tangs look like this https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/...P90moCIBP-57gt2LzmUJBTjIedL1EhcKDl9inBErRV60q
you might be able to open the "U" of the tangs to allow them to engage more smoothly.
keep going, you're almost there
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/...EqSbkfd9tsaPZzL6Akc3wn-Cq0bqjBpt4qs2pVAOTDobA
Maybe you need to file the two tangs down a bit or carefully remove the rubber washer under those tangs and replace it with one that you have cut from an old inner tube. Or a combination of both.
if the tangs look like this https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/...P90moCIBP-57gt2LzmUJBTjIedL1EhcKDl9inBErRV60q
you might be able to open the "U" of the tangs to allow them to engage more smoothly.
keep going, you're almost there
And once striped as I gather try a straight head screw driver file it to a sharp edge.Set it,turn it while striking the opposite end with a hammer.Try not to miss the end of the screw driver.
Okay, here's what happened recently, 2 days ago I had my friend Captain Zeldacoon (he's my friend who also got me introduced in to motorized bikes), and he had his bike over. We both worked on my bike managing to not only break the chain, give me a new CDI but we also solved the problem of my gas cap; it was pretty funny. What happened was that because my gas cap wouldn't turn to close, he thought why not try my gas cap on his fuel tank. Lo and behold it fit perfectly so, we decided to try his gas capon my tank and surprisingly it did! So now I have a working gas cap and a chain that isn't loose
Also, yesterday I tried out the welding solution to my throttle cable in attempt to save some money but, it didn't work out as I though it would. I'm a welder(still learning but I am an expert at TIG welding, especially aluminum) and I tried multiple times to get one bead on the cable with TIG. The cable would just literally disintegrate before I could get a bead on because of the voltage and heat. So in the end I was left with a cable much shorter that it was before. To sum it up, essentially I will need to buy a new throttle cable and maybe a new screw to hold the clutch cable if needed. Thank you all so much for helping me through this long journey, it wasn't easy for me I admit but thanks to you all I managed through. Hopefully everything will come together. I will post pics of the finished product
Bandit,
You can use a standard bicycle brake cable. Get one long enough to reach between the twist grip and the carburetor. You do not want stainless steel cable.
There's no need to 'weld' an end on it where it goes in the carb. Soldering works just fine. Try this:
Hobby shops and hardware stores sell brass and copper tubing in small diameter. Use 1/16" I.D. Cut a short length, about 1/8" and using a soldering iron, or gun, the brass/copper can be attached to the cable after you've determined the correct length.
There is no need to use high temperature solder or a torch. An electric soldering iron or gun will suffice. I use 50/50 or 95/5 solder and solder paste. Nocorode is the best flux paste I've found.
Good luck.
Tom
You can use a standard bicycle brake cable. Get one long enough to reach between the twist grip and the carburetor. You do not want stainless steel cable.
There's no need to 'weld' an end on it where it goes in the carb. Soldering works just fine. Try this:
Hobby shops and hardware stores sell brass and copper tubing in small diameter. Use 1/16" I.D. Cut a short length, about 1/8" and using a soldering iron, or gun, the brass/copper can be attached to the cable after you've determined the correct length.
There is no need to use high temperature solder or a torch. An electric soldering iron or gun will suffice. I use 50/50 or 95/5 solder and solder paste. Nocorode is the best flux paste I've found.
Good luck.
Tom
I have purchased bicycle cables -brake or shifter and soldered as 2Door mentioned. I have mig welded to them as well. One quick tap with the mig. Any more and it burns cable.
For the screw problem-mine were too tight too. Very sharp punch and a solid rap on edge of screw and it usually moves.
Impact driver is a must for any screws that are flush countersunk type. I also have put a screwdriver bit in my air impact and rattled them out.
For the screw problem-mine were too tight too. Very sharp punch and a solid rap on edge of screw and it usually moves.
Impact driver is a must for any screws that are flush countersunk type. I also have put a screwdriver bit in my air impact and rattled them out.
Today is the Day folks, I received my throttle cable yesterday and Captain Zeldacoon and I shall finish the assembly of the project. Thank you all so much for my problems I encountered along the way of the assembly. I will show pictures of it and still continue to post online any problems I may encounter.
I present to you Big Bertha:
The reason why I call her Big Bertha is quite simple, she is too big for me. My feet don't even touch the ground.
There are 3 problem as of now.
1. At first the motor wouldn't even run so, we replaced the magneto a couple of times and after an hour or so, Captain Zeldacoon and I found out that the CDI(He gave me his spare) I was using was bad. We swapped out the CDI with my original CDI(It had a bad connection because way back when we were installing it on for the first time, the ground cable connector that holds the black cable together literally fell out and messed up the wire. We decided not to use it and I instead put on the other CDI). Lo and behold, after we got enough speed I released the Clutch and gave the throttle a little pull and it worked! Which brings me to my next problem
2. When I wanted to slow down to stop and keep the motor running, I let go of the clutch and the motor would instantly turn off like, right away. Also there would be this high pitch screeching sound around the motor. The Captain and I think that sound is either the piston suddenly losing speed and screeching, the screeching maybe from the CDI's bad connection or, the screeching sound is from the chain. That brings me to my next problem
3. This problem is pretty annoying: when we first got the motor working and running(besides the screeching) everything would be working just fine; no problems at all. After 30 minutes or so, the chain got a lot slack so that it would get stuck behind the Sprocket. Seems simple right? Well, the part that hold the chain with the plastic wheel(rag joint?) kept getting pulled forward and loosened up as well. After tightening up the part, we tried again and the chain got stuck, the part would get loose and this process of tightening up and moving it backwards eventually got tiring. We tried giving the chain some slack and the problem went a way for a little bit, before it returned. This time we tried giving the chain some more slack and moved the part forward a bit. As it turns out, if we don't initiate the throttle and just pedal, the there won't be any problems. So the Captain and I pedaled to my place and think that if we can remove 1 chain link, there won't be any more slack and I also think that if we also put some type of rubber inside the part it will give it a better grip and not loosen up because the where it is right now, the tubing is very narrow. Also, we rotated the Sprocket to give the chain more clearance and not be so close to the bike frame which we think is maybe causing the high screeching sound.
The reason why I call her Big Bertha is quite simple, she is too big for me. My feet don't even touch the ground.There are 3 problem as of now.
1. At first the motor wouldn't even run so, we replaced the magneto a couple of times and after an hour or so, Captain Zeldacoon and I found out that the CDI(He gave me his spare) I was using was bad. We swapped out the CDI with my original CDI(It had a bad connection because way back when we were installing it on for the first time, the ground cable connector that holds the black cable together literally fell out and messed up the wire. We decided not to use it and I instead put on the other CDI). Lo and behold, after we got enough speed I released the Clutch and gave the throttle a little pull and it worked! Which brings me to my next problem
2. When I wanted to slow down to stop and keep the motor running, I let go of the clutch and the motor would instantly turn off like, right away. Also there would be this high pitch screeching sound around the motor. The Captain and I think that sound is either the piston suddenly losing speed and screeching, the screeching maybe from the CDI's bad connection or, the screeching sound is from the chain. That brings me to my next problem
3. This problem is pretty annoying: when we first got the motor working and running(besides the screeching) everything would be working just fine; no problems at all. After 30 minutes or so, the chain got a lot slack so that it would get stuck behind the Sprocket. Seems simple right? Well, the part that hold the chain with the plastic wheel(rag joint?) kept getting pulled forward and loosened up as well. After tightening up the part, we tried again and the chain got stuck, the part would get loose and this process of tightening up and moving it backwards eventually got tiring. We tried giving the chain some slack and the problem went a way for a little bit, before it returned. This time we tried giving the chain some more slack and moved the part forward a bit. As it turns out, if we don't initiate the throttle and just pedal, the there won't be any problems. So the Captain and I pedaled to my place and think that if we can remove 1 chain link, there won't be any more slack and I also think that if we also put some type of rubber inside the part it will give it a better grip and not loosen up because the where it is right now, the tubing is very narrow. Also, we rotated the Sprocket to give the chain more clearance and not be so close to the bike frame which we think is maybe causing the high screeching sound.
" the part that hold the chain with the plastic wheel(rag joint?) " That's the chain tensioiner. Chains definitely stretch at first so you need to compensate for that by adjusting that tensioner. You can certainly run without one if your chain is now stable and you can get the proper amount of slack in it. Another thing you can do is tack weld that tensioner in place. Much better than using rubber to fill up some space and add some grip. Very important to make sure your rear wheel sprocket is lined up straight with your engine drive sprocket.
