Vintage Mechanical Horns

GoldenMotor.com

msrfan

Well-Known Member
Sep 17, 2010
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One of the most desirable accessories for a vintage bike is one of the old ooga horns mounted on the handlebars. They have a great look and an obnoxious sound. Some are quite loud. I own a modest selection of the small bicycle/scooter horns I've been collecting for a few years that I would like to share. These are not for sale, just for show.
The top row is the most sought after. You've probably seen them on Whizzers, Cushmans and even Harleys, Indians, Hendersons, etc. They're made by EA Labs, Brooklyn, New York. They're also the most expensive. A few years ago you had to pay as much as $250 to $400 for one of these. Now that people realize they're fairly common, you can find them for under $100 on ebay and swap meets. The toothed flywheel inside sets them apart from the simple quack-quack horns, as they have more of an ooga sound but higher pitched than the larger automobile versions.



The cheaper made style have a segmented gear inside that reciprocates, activated by a plunger or lever and sounding like a duck. Still, some are pretty loud. They can be found for around the same price or less than the EA horns.



The White one in the photo that looks like a spiral horn is actually built like a bicycle pump with a plunger and a leather cup that pushes air through a diaphragm and really honks. Another desirable model found for around $100 on ebay.

There's quite a lot going on inside, with a rack and pinion spinning a flywheel that rubs against an adjusting bolt in the middle of the diaphragm, and then ratcheting back up to be pushed again. The flywheel axle is supported at each end in adjustable brass cups. A strong spring under the plunger resets it.

The air activated horn also has a spring that pushes the cup back up.






These horns have been used since the 1800's and manufactured well into the 40's and 50's. A functional and great looking addition to any motorized bike, no matter what style.
Hope you enjoyed my post. I also have a collection of the larger motorcycle and automobile mechanical ooga horns. Let me know if you would like to see photos of them.
 
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msrfan

Well-Known Member
Sep 17, 2010
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Southern California
OK, I couldn't resist sharing the larger horns, as they're my favorite because they have a true ooga sound. A deep growl just like the electric ones. Manufactured in several different states and used first on horse drawn wagons. Most plunge using your hand or foot, depending on where you mount it, and some twist or crank. I saw my first one in a movie years ago. Fred MacMurray had one on his Model T in "Flubber" mounted on the left door easy to reach.









They sport some great looking brass badges.





 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
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Central Area of Texas
seeing these things is sad for me.

so sad to see things from when America and some othe nations of the world were such awesome manufacturers of really nice things and now look what we are forced to by.... mostly a bunch of junk in comparison....

really nice collection of vintage bike stuff and thank you for sharing msrfan

map
 

msrfan

Well-Known Member
Sep 17, 2010
1,808
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Southern California
Thanks map, I know what you mean about quality then and now. I have a small collection of antique engines to restore and some of them have run for 50-75 years already and are still rebuildable. A modern manufacturing machine doesn't know how to or even care to show pride of workmanship. They're just worried about volume and the bottom line. Hand made things used to be decorated, painted and pinstriped showing a work ethic not too common today.
 

Gbrebes

Well-Known Member
Jul 16, 2010
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Los angeles
Super impressive collection msrfan! Those horns you have are in pristine condition, did you restore/repaint them yourself?

I have one of the ea labs type of horn, but it's missing the plunger and I haven't taken it apart yet. But your pictures of one in pieces helps a lot.

I also have a hand activated car horn, which I love the sound of, but have never figured out a good place to mount it.

Thanks for the informative post,

Gilbert
 

msrfan

Well-Known Member
Sep 17, 2010
1,808
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Southern California
Super impressive collection msrfan! Those horns you have are in pristine condition, did you restore/repaint them yourself?

I have one of the ea labs type of horn, but it's missing the plunger and I haven't taken it apart yet. But your pictures of one in pieces helps a lot.

I also have a hand activated car horn, which I love the sound of, but have never figured out a good place to mount it.

Thanks for the informative post,

Gilbert
Hi Gilbert. I was hoping you would respond to this thread. Your bike is screaming for an ooga horn.
Get that little horn to me and I'll get it working for you. I make several parts for them and can even make you a new plunger with knob.
 

msrfan

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Sep 17, 2010
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Southern California
Okay, I received Gilbert's horn in the mail for repair. It's really in poor condition, but I'll see what I can do with it.



No plunger or knob.



There's a tooth missing from the axle.




The diaphragm looks savable, but the adjusting screw is broken.

 

Gbrebes

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Jul 16, 2010
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Los angeles
Oh man, that axle is F'ed up! Thank you so much msrfan for taking on that basket case horn.

I most likely would have put it back on the shelf to collect dust if I saw the condition of the guts.
 

msrfan

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Sep 17, 2010
1,808
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Southern California
Here are all the pieces cleaned up.








And here's some of the tools I use to restore these parts.
This stamping die forms the bottom handlebar bracket, which is usually missing, and straightens the upper one.



This one cuts a new gasket.



And this punch forms the recess in the top knob, which I make from an ordinary automotive freeze plug.


 

msrfan

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Sep 17, 2010
1,808
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Southern California
This sleeve is slipped over the square plunger shaft after I cut the grooves for the axle gear. Then I can use the 3 jaw lathe chuck to turn one end round to mount the knob onto and then peen it over like a rivet.



Here's a clamp that I use to straighten bent axles from excessive force to the knob, which usually bends the knob over. Just slip it through the holes in the sides and find the high spot. Then apply pressure with the bolt until there's no more high spots.



These are the special thread tap and die used to make new adjusting bolts and nuts.



I also make new diaphragms using the correct thickness of spring steel sheet material and making an insert for the adjuster. The center hole has 4 grooves filed in the edge to prevent the insert from turning. The insert is retained by mushrooming the back side. Gilbert's diaphragm won't need replacing, as it is good condition.




This assortment of parts was accumulated over years of horn repairs and restorations.



I made most of the tools and parts and my friend, Dan, machined some. The decals are reproduced from an original by a local print shop. The plunger springs and diaphragm material come from Mc Master Carr as well as the hardware. The axle supports happen to be the same thread as a tire Shrader valve and can be made from pieces cut from the stem. The nuts from the valve stems make nice chrome replacements for the beat up originals.
 
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msrfan

Well-Known Member
Sep 17, 2010
1,808
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Southern California
I got the upper bracket straight, the lower clamp made and the plunger and knob assembly finished.









Next will be to figure out the axle with the broken tooth.
 

Gbrebes

Well-Known Member
Jul 16, 2010
656
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Los angeles
I am speechless, I do not feel worthy of such fine craftsmanship!

Did you cut the teeth on that plunger? How did you do that?

Thanks for the tutorial, and thanks for using my crusty horn for the example.

Gilbert
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
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northeastern Minnesota
Pretty impressive what you are doing to breathe new life into that old horn... and even more impressive to me is the kindness and friendship extended to Gilbert. You guys are both assets to this forum. Glad you are members!
SB
 

msrfan

Well-Known Member
Sep 17, 2010
1,808
120
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Southern California
Thanks Gilbert. I began with a 9 tooth thread file to start the grooves, then used a hacksaw with a regular blade and finished with a rod saw in the hacksaw frame. The depth of cut was regulated by clamping just the right amount above my vice jaws. Pretty crude but gets the job done.
I was hoping you'd like the polished brass knob. You'll have the only one.


Thanks silverbear, you know as well as I that friendship is worth more than gold. A lot of it comes from this forum.
 
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Gbrebes

Well-Known Member
Jul 16, 2010
656
260
63
Los angeles
The brass knob is awesome. I wondered how the metal freeze plug turned into polished brass. I converted my bike back to a cruiser style with the long crossbar handlebars, to get ready for that cool horn. I thought the horn might look kind of funny on the low-down racer bars set up.

Thanks again
 

msrfan

Well-Known Member
Sep 17, 2010
1,808
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Southern California
Okay, I got a buddy to TIG a new tooth onto the axle.






It warped a little, so I put it in my straightening tool.




The sleeve that the plunger slides into was loose, so I had him tack it in place on the inside so it doesn't show.




Now, a little filing and dremel work, the axle should be fine. I may have to harden it and straighten again.
 

msrfan

Well-Known Member
Sep 17, 2010
1,808
120
63
Southern California
The brass knob is awesome. I wondered how the metal freeze plug turned into polished brass. I converted my bike back to a cruiser style with the long crossbar handlebars, to get ready for that cool horn. I thought the horn might look kind of funny on the low-down racer bars set up.

Thanks again
Let me know what diameter the bar is so I can make sure the horn will clamp onto it tightly. I can always make a bushing to fill a gap.