This carb is tickin me off...

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MoreBloodWine

New Member
Oct 9, 2012
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Meadville, Pa
Not sure if this is where this goes but anyway... I'll be damned if I can get this thing on the engine. Due to the plastic ring it looks like it wants to fit but doesn't. Please, if anyone has any ideas I'm all ears... Ty.

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PAracer

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Sep 14, 2012
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Steelton, PA
Yep. Use a flat blade screwdriver between the clamp halves and twist. That will open it up enough to slide it on.

To keep my carb from backing off, I used a chain of zip ties around the carb, around the crankcase, then attached to the front tube of the bike frame. This prevents the carb seal from backing out and leaking air.
 

MoreBloodWine

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Oct 9, 2012
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Meadville, Pa
You might have to pry it open a bit but very carefully. I'm assuming you unscrewed the tightening screw on the top there.
That's what I was thinkin but wasn't sure because as u said, gotta be uber careful. Oh, and yes to the screw thing.

To keep my carb from backing off, I used a chain of zip ties around the carb, around the crankcase, then attached to the front tube of the bike frame. This prevents the carb seal from backing out and leaking air.
Huh lol... pic please ?

And be sure to rotate the collar 90 degrees from where it is in your picture.
So turn it to where the collar slit sits left or right, gotcha ;-)

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nightcruiser

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Mar 25, 2011
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And be sure to rotate the collar 90 degrees from where it is in your picture.
Why would you need to do that? The white piece is just a spacer, it doesn't make the seal and doesn't matter where the space goes. In the throat of the carb there should be a black rubber gasket that is formed to fit the end of your intake tube, THAT is the seal. Pull that black seal out of the carb and look at it, note how it is form fit to go right over the end of your intake tube, you need to get the intake into that gasket when the carb is mounted to get it to seal properly.... (make sure you put the gasket back before mounting the carb!)

To mount this carb first loosen the mounting screw quite a bit, use a flat blade to carefully spread the gap in the neck of the carb where the screw goes though. The carb should go right on now, if not, you can try it with the white spacer on the intake (rather than in the carb), but be careful with the white spacer cause they can be brittle and break. Once the carb is on the intake work it back until it bottoms out, then wiggle it around a bit while pressing it onto the intake so the intake seats that last little bit inside the gasket. Now, while pressing the carb firmly onto the intake tighten the screw.

I have never had my carb come loose or leak when mounted this way, never had to use any sealer, the rubber gasket in the throat does a real good job if mounted properly.
 

PAracer

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Sep 14, 2012
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Steelton, PA
I know it's a crap excuse, but it said to do so in the instructions that came with my kit. I know it's just a spacer and all, but whatever.
 

PAracer

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Sep 14, 2012
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Steelton, PA
Looks like you're in pretty good shape. The fuel line is good as long as it is not touching the head. Obviously farther away is better. My advice would be to put the line on, then deside where to put the filter. You might find that having the filter at the bottom helps the line lay correctly.

To seal the threads on the petcock, use teflon tape. Any hardware store will have it in the plumbing section. It's cheap too. When you wrap it around the threads, make sure that it doesn't cover the end of the tube. It's easy to end up covering the hole.
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
Why use teflon tape on machine threads? The kit supplied petcock and the fuel tank are 10mm machine thread and they rely on the red gasket to seal. Teflon tape is okay for pipe threads which are tapered and rely on tightness to seal. The teflon tape acts only as a thread lubricant to assist in tightening them, not as a sealer.

If the kit supplied petcock leaks at the threads there are sealers available but teflon tape isn't one of them. It might take up some space and work for a while but is not a permanent fix. Nylon zip ties to hold the carburetor on isn't either.
Do it right the first time and you won't have to do it again. Determine why the carburetor will not stay tight on the intake manifold and fix that problem. Bandaids will come back to bite you.

Tom
 

MoreBloodWine

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Oct 9, 2012
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Meadville, Pa
Looks like you're in pretty good shape. The fuel line is good as long as it is not touching the head. Obviously farther away is better. My advice would be to put the line on, then deside where to put the filter. You might find that having the filter at the bottom helps the line lay correctly.

To seal the threads on the petcock, use teflon tape. Any hardware store will have it in the plumbing section. It's cheap too. When you wrap it around the threads, make sure that it doesn't cover the end of the tube. It's easy to end up covering the hole.
Lol I already got the filter on and I had to soak the line in scalding hot water to expand it so I could push it on pretty far. I think the placement is ok now... slapped the carb on and held the line in place. Will know more tomorrow when I got some light and can play with it more.

As for the petcock, I got the yellow gas line teflon tape... it covered the petcock filter some but I use my finger nail to trim that so for now it all looks good. As for everything else... like I said a second ago. I should know more tomorrow when I got some good light to work in so here's hoping it fits well as is.

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MoreBloodWine

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Oct 9, 2012
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Meadville, Pa
Cool! Sounds like you've got it pretty much covered!
Will know for sure tomorrow heh... I just hope I don't have to tweak the filter ne more than I already have.

Edit: is it normal for the carb to still wana twist a bit ? The things sccrewed on as tight as I could get it and it doesn't turn without some force, so...

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