This has happened to me before. I solved this buy losing the clutch pads then re tightening them to their orginal state. The cltuch pads are built in the right side of the engine. Note you will have to remove 4 or 5 screws to access the clutch
Sorry, this is not good advice.
Do not start messing with the clutch unless you have a thorough understanding of how it works. The clutch has nothing to do with the chain binding.
#415 chain is what comes with most kits. We always suggest replacing it with #41 industrial chain. If you had taken my advice and read through some of the previous threads devoted to chain and tensioner problems you will see that almost without exception that the kit supplied tensioner brackets need to be bent (twisted) to allow the tensioner wheel to align with the chain. This is due to the taper of the chain stay when compared with the line the chain must follow from engine drive sprocket to the rear wheel, driven sprocket.
Roller chain must be aligned between these two sprockets with little to no lateral deviation. Also the tensioner must guide the chain straight into the rear sprocket teeth and not pull it off to either side.
Chain tension should be set so you have 1/2 to 3/4" of slack, no more no less. A too loose or too tight chain will cause you problems.
Please do some reading and see what others have done to keep the tensioner bracket from loosening and rotating into the rear spokes. Do not rely solely on the clamping action of the bracket or you'll soon be buying a new rear wheel and applying some bandaids to your injuries if you don't.
Tom
