big bore carb and cam from terry blow

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locutus_1

New Member
Oct 31, 2010
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california
questions for you guys.. i wanted to pick up terrys big bore carb and cam gear but not sure if its really worth it..

does anyone know how much power it will give? and how to install the cam gear? like pictures or a tutorial i was thinking this is my next upgrade just not surexct2xct2
 

Tad Bit Tipsy

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Jan 2, 2010
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Pensacola,FL
You will get a noticeable increase in HP, well noticeable for such a small engine. I have done the same thing in a Honda and Kawasaki. I would gut your stock exhaust or get the performance exhaust with the carb and cam. Or just go straight pipe. You can actually see where the cam wheel sets next to the output shaft on that side of your engine, its a little bump just up and to the right of where the shaft/clutch is. You can remove the entire cover on that side to get to it(after you remove gear box/clutch. Remove the wheel and replace, make sure new cam is aligned with TDC, should be an arrow/slit on the wheel to line up. I have only done this on a similar motor, so I cannot give you detailed directions. Call the guys at AGK for best advice. I will be doing this to my HS in the next months also. Definitely worth the extra money.
 

locutus_1

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Oct 31, 2010
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california
i have a straight pipe with flex tubing so thats taken care of.. it seems easy enough a few bolts and not even pulling the engine to do it :) that makes it even better

.5 hp would be nice even some low end torq i think ill go ahead and do it thanks

terry recoments resetting the intake and exhaust valve to 008 or something like that did you do that to yours or just lave it stock and put in the parts?
 

locutus_1

New Member
Oct 31, 2010
196
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california
You will get a noticeable increase in HP, well noticeable for such a small engine. I have done the same thing in a Honda and Kawasaki. I would gut your stock exhaust or get the performance exhaust with the carb and cam. Or just go straight pipe. You can actually see where the cam wheel sets next to the output shaft on that side of your engine, its a little bump just up and to the right of where the shaft/clutch is. You can remove the entire cover on that side to get to it(after you remove gear box/clutch. Remove the wheel and replace, make sure new cam is aligned with TDC, should be an arrow/slit on the wheel to line up. I have only done this on a similar motor, so I cannot give you detailed directions. Call the guys at AGK for best advice. I will be doing this to my HS in the next months also. Definitely worth the extra money.

ok i ordered the big bore carb and cam.. you said contact agk... what does agk stand for? so i can look them up

from what terry says from the stock hp on the hs i should be at 3.25 when im done from 2.1 i asume that they are at...

all im doing this for is alittle more get up and go im 300 lbs i got a 60 toothe rear sproket 4:1 4g tranny and 10 tooth output but i need that little pick me up..

did yours burn a whole lot more fuel after you installed it? terrys going to make a video so i can figure out how to set the timeing etc.. i a feeler guage but never done it on this motor the valves look so tiny.. lol yes ive had the head off to have a look
 

Tad Bit Tipsy

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Jan 2, 2010
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Pensacola,FL
I'm not really sure you can get that much HP out of it. I was thinking more around 2.75 to 3.0 after increase and a little bit more torque, but until someone runs a dyno we won't know for sure, so coming from me its only an slightly educated guess, lol. Yes you will burn more fuel, I would think a drop of 20 to 30 MPG maybe more if you dump the throttle a lot. Any increase in performance is worth the money when you need it.
 

locutus_1

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Oct 31, 2010
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california
I'm not really sure you can get that much HP out of it. I was thinking more around 2.75 to 3.0 after increase and a little bit more torque, but until someone runs a dyno we won't know for sure, so coming from me its only an slightly educated guess, lol. Yes you will burn more fuel, I would think a drop of 20 to 30 MPG maybe more if you dump the throttle a lot. Any increase in performance is worth the money when you need it.
i happen to agree, i see no more than .5 hp over stock... most 3.0 because i belive titan offers a 3.0 hp one says it has beter this and that when i think its just these parts added on... then again who knows.

im pretty conservative 20mph max for me 1/4 throttle.. im more of a weekend harley rider the kind who never pushes the limits the kind that wipes his bike off with a diaper lol really i do... im mainly doing it to get me alittle more ummphh on the take offs thought mid range nothing fancy then again the engine i should be useing is a 6hp with a go kart clutch just not an option now seeing how im in california and i stick out like a sore thumb
 

Tad Bit Tipsy

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Jan 2, 2010
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Pensacola,FL
I think you'll be happy then. I've seen the Titan S and its a great engine, then carb is the same but they change the needle in it as well as the cam, that's what gives it more power. Maybe with the big bore carb, you will get more HP. I just noticed AGK has different size needles for the big bore carb, so now you can dial in your carb to perfection!
 

locutus_1

New Member
Oct 31, 2010
196
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california
I think you'll be happy then. I've seen the Titan S and its a great engine, then carb is the same but they change the needle in it as well as the cam, that's what gives it more power. Maybe with the big bore carb, you will get more HP. I just noticed AGK has different size needles for the big bore carb, so now you can dial in your carb to perfection!
yes i just got an email from akg seems they are the ones that made the cam and he even said they have the jets for it if needed.. also he said it out performed the stock 49 cc in races..

so well see once i get things put on..
 

agk

New Member
Oct 2, 2010
151
4
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Santa Barbara CA
We have not put our 49cc engine on the dyno yet. We have to make an adapter for the 5/8" shaft before we can get it on the dyno. So, the only way we can measure the increase in performance from our products is from the races we have entered. At the last death race and at the willow springs race we were able to finish ahead of all the other 49cc 4-stroke entries. The track is the true test so if there is anyone out there modifying this engine we hope you can put it on the track for a real comparison. We are not super competitive and don't feel like we're better than anyone else, we do however feel like we can improve our products with some competition. We have come up with a cam profile, a big bore carb, a high flow air filter, some jet sizes to choose from and a high flow exhaust for the 49cc engine. We can't give you HP numbers right now, but we can give you race results. We've finished ahead of any other 49 4-stroke at the last two races. These parts work and we look forward to being challenged and forced to come up with some new products to increase the power of the popular 49cc 4-stroke engine.
 

BE-tech

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Sep 14, 2011
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Bozeman
ok i ordered the big bore carb and cam.. you said contact agk... what does agk stand for? so i can look them up

from what terry says from the stock hp on the hs i should be at 3.25 when im done from 2.1 i asume that they are at...

all im doing this for is alittle more get up and go im 300 lbs i got a 60 toothe rear sproket 4:1 4g tranny and 10 tooth output but i need that little pick me up..

did yours burn a whole lot more fuel after you installed it? terrys going to make a video so i can figure out how to set the timeing etc.. i a feeler guage but never done it on this motor the valves look so tiny.. lol yes ive had the head off to have a look

Hey I noticed that you were looking for some more pick up. If your not worried about sacrificing some more top-speed you could also put a 90T or 100T pulley on to further reduce the gear ratio- I saw you were already running a 60 tooth rear sprocket and this would be the easiest way to further reduce gearing. Keep in mind you will also need a longer belt for the pulley.

Hope this helps- Rob @ Bicycle-Engines.com
 

locutus_1

New Member
Oct 31, 2010
196
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california
tad, or anyone that installed the cam.. i just got mine all done cam and carb.. i set the valves at 008 when its at bottom dead center and the lifters are loose.. but when i ran it i noticed the lifters are alot louder than stock.. is this normal? should i back them off to 009 or 010? or will they eventually wear in?

i set both intake and exhaust at 008 like terry said..

other than the rocker noise it runs great alot more responsive.. im just worried that i have them to tight... btw there is oil back in it lol
 

MotorBicycleRacing

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Jul 28, 2010
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tad, or anyone that installed the cam.. i just got mine all done cam and carb.. i set the valves at 008 when its at bottom dead center and the lifters are loose.. but when i ran it i noticed the lifters are alot louder than stock.. is this normal? should i back them off to 009 or 010? or will they eventually wear in?

i set both intake and exhaust at 008 like terry said..

other than the rocker noise it runs great alot more responsive.. im just worried that i have them to tight... btw there is oil back in it lol
what exhaust are you running on your bike?

Do you have a pic of your bike?
thanks
 

locutus_1

New Member
Oct 31, 2010
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california
i have a free flowing exhaust and what would a pic help with..

im asking if if the rocker noise is normal with this new cam ive installed... or should i widen the gap lash back to stock etc...
 

Greybeard

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Feb 8, 2011
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Sequim WA
On this motor, the easiest, and most reliable way to set lifters is when the piston reaches the top on the compression stroke. Remove the sparkplug, turn the engine until it is pushing your finger out of the sparkplug hole with compression and turn it untill the piston is all the way up. When the magnet on the flywheel is under the coil on the compression stroke,THEN you can be assured that both valves are closed, and you can adjust the valves. Doing it somewhere else, one valve may be open slightly and you end up with a loose valve.
 

locutus_1

New Member
Oct 31, 2010
196
0
0
california
On this motor, the easiest, and most reliable way to set lifters is when the piston reaches the top on the compression stroke. Remove the sparkplug, turn the engine until it is pushing your finger out of the sparkplug hole with compression and turn it untill the piston is all the way up. When the magnet on the flywheel is under the coil on the compression stroke,THEN you can be assured that both valves are closed, and you can adjust the valves. Doing it somewhere else, one valve may be open slightly and you end up with a loose valve.
yea i did it whe both valves are loose at the sae time per terry's video i found at .008 is to much so i set both to .009 rattling went down, and it reved better without the hiccup i had before

i also noticed the lifters on the pin are terribly loose when tdc seems its built into the motor maybe thats what the rattleing is the lifters hitting the pin and side wall when they are not compressed.. nothing i can do about it other than buy a honda i read on this forum hs are known for rattling lifters... i dunno i thought that the lash has somethign to do with that? also
 

agk

New Member
Oct 2, 2010
151
4
0
Santa Barbara CA
On this motor, the easiest, and most reliable way to set lifters is when the piston reaches the top on the compression stroke. Remove the sparkplug, turn the engine until it is pushing your finger out of the sparkplug hole with compression and turn it untill the piston is all the way up. When the magnet on the flywheel is under the coil on the compression stroke,THEN you can be assured that both valves are closed, and you can adjust the valves. Doing it somewhere else, one valve may be open slightly and you end up with a loose valve.
Locutus 1, I hear you saying you followed Terry's instructions on setting the valves. I'm not sure if you understand what Greybeard is saying. Read Greybeards post and set your valve lash at TDC on the compression stroke. Set it somewhere between .006 and .008. Then turn the engine over a few times, put it back at TDC on the compression stroke and re-check the lash.

Our 49cc engine with the performance cam has 8 hours of run time, most of which is track time. There is no additional valve train noise and this particular bike has been the most reliable in our fleet of bikes.
 

locutus_1

New Member
Oct 31, 2010
196
0
0
california
Locutus 1, I hear you saying you followed Terry's instructions on setting the valves. I'm not sure if you understand what Greybeard is saying. Read Greybeards post and set your valve lash at TDC on the compression stroke. Set it somewhere between .006 and .008. Then turn the engine over a few times, put it back at TDC on the compression stroke and re-check the lash.

Our 49cc engine with the performance cam has 8 hours of run time, most of which is track time. There is no additional valve train noise and this particular bike has been the most reliable in our fleet of bikes.
thats what i did i turned it till both lifters were loose at the same time i didnt look to see where the piston was be it at the bottom of the stroke or tdc either one as long as the lifters are both freed up at the same time which is only one time during the compression stroke at the bottom just before it comes up as you come up theres pressure starting to build on the lifters and they arent loose so bdc from...

then i set them both at 008 put the cover back on ran it the lifters were louder than the hs motors normally are.. and i had a hiccup mid throttle where its fine off the line but hesitates then comes back a dead spot.. then i reset the lash at 009 instead of 008 both sides and dead spot is now gone and lifter noise is now half or back to stock...

now before i put this cam in the lifter noise was minimal since its doubled it i assume because of the more agressive timeing. and the fact these motors use a pin and the lifters slap around...

the tighter i set the lash i went the lifter noise worsend which is odd becuase it should be better not worse


did you notice a increase in lifter noise on your bike or was it the same?


and bdc is just before tdc of the compression stroke i found no where else in the stroke where its loose other than that.. other than that it has much better response i cant wait to get it on the road