Clutch problems

for the nut, make sure the threads are all good, replace the lockwasher if needed, and either put it on with an impact gun or crank that mother down with something wedged in the gear so it won't turn.

if you use an impact, don't go crazy on it. it's cheap chinese stuff and you don't want to murder it.

clanking sound? not sure, could be the chain hitting, or could be adjusted wrong so it's engaging.

take out the bucking bar (the rod that'll fall out when the cover's off) and there's a ball bearing behind it. usually that will roll out too. if not...

i use carb cleaner spray to clean all the old grease out. then stick a screwdriver with a magnet on one end to grab that ball and pull it out.

then take a gob of grease on one finger, and push it into the hole. about a third of what you'd use if it was toothpaste is enough.

push the bearing and the bar back in and wipe off the excess.

that should make your clutch pull a little smoother, and take care of the squeak, also.

the cable adjustment is probably too tight, and that's messing up your idle and making your wheel spin.

the cable should be adjusted so there's no slack, and just enough tension that your lever doesn't flop around. when the lever's released, the bike should roll easily, with only the chain giving resistance.

i like to sit on the bike with the engine off, adjust the cable, then, with the lever released, push myself forward. the wheel should skid, or go "thup thup thup" if it rolls.

if you can't get the lever to still have tension and all the other stuff above working together, you need to adjust your flower nut.

take off the teardrop cover, take out the little set screw, and turn the flower nut counter clockwise two grooves. then try the push method again.

if it's good, replace the set screw, the cover, and go riding. if not, turn the nut a groove or two either way till you find the sweet spot.

you might have to re-adjust cable tension a little after messing with the flower nut.

no, that's not normal. i mean, i've never seen one like that. i can't even think of how it would wear like that. all it's supposed to do is push in and out. there shouldn't be anything inside that hole that would grind it away like that.

i've got no answers for that one.

On the nut on the small sprocket, there have been good suggestions so far. I would like to add that you should go get yourself a socket that is the size of that nut and use a real socket to tighten that nut instead of the spark plug tool they give you. You just can't apply pressure properly with that plug tool IMHO. On my first build I had this problem too, the nut spun out, sprocket came loose, chain busted, bummer! Also, I found that the entire clutch had creeped over toward the gear side of the motor which could cause it to rub on the gear side cover (possible cause of squeak?) Any how, if you tighten that nut properly with a socket you may be surprised how many more turns you get out of it, and it may actually pull the entire clutch mechanism toward the sprocket side a bit when you do it. Also, I used blue loctite on the threads to make sure that nut didn't come loose again, and it didn't, until I wanted to remove it at which time I had no problem getting it off with the socket.
On the bucking bar, don't know why one side would be so worn, kinda wondering if someone did that with a grinder cause they thought it would make the clutch pull easier?
Speaking of a tough pulling clutch, the cables that come with the kits can cause a lot of drag, the drag on the clutch cable can make the clutch bite a little bit when its locked in if you turn your handlebars, the throttle cable can drag and make the idle go up and down. The combo of more/less drag and more/less throttle can give you erratic idle and make your bike stall. First thing you need to do is shoot some light weight oil down your cables to lubricate them. If you continue to have drag then make sure your cables are routed in long sweeping bends, no sharp corners. If you must have sharp bends then consider using a "noodle" on the cable to round the bend. If all that doesn't get things smooth then check out a better cable (from a good bike store) that has a lining in the housing which will reduce the friction in the cable a lot. Finally, a lot of people fabricate some sort of roller on their clutch cable because the angle the cable takes in the stock setup is pretty sharp and causes a lot of drag.

M.P. the nut on the 10 tooth drive wheel gear is a 19 millimeter nut .you need a 19 millimeter socket not that cheap spark plug socket that came with your kit. I'll send you a link to a guy that sells just bucking bar and 2 ball bearings . Take your door jamb hinge pin bucking bar and throw it away . That steel is too soft . if you have a shop vac and roll of duct tape,before you leave work grab a soda straw take the soda straw and put it on the end of the vacuum hose and duct tape the hose to the soda straw turn on the vacuum stick the straw in the hole and suck out the ball bearing. but like I told you last night on the phone , pull the gear and make sure the wooduff key is still there if its not call me and I will mail you one. Also that ratal all you hear is because you have a few screws loose of upstairs. LOL

MitchP said:

I made a clutch roller out of a door jam! The bar definetely wore down, I've seen it from the beginning. It might be spinning with the clutch unit.

Click to expand...

The bucking bar pushes a ball bearing, the ball bearing pushes another rod that actuates the pressure plate on the clutch, the wear you usually see on the inside of the bucking bar is a dimple from the bearing.

Take a look at this thread below to see nice pictures of a clutch shaft disassembled with parts laid in place so you can visualize what is going on there...

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=8392