The Raven

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16v4nrbrgr

Active Member
Mar 17, 2012
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I'm clumsy and burn myself by grabbing hot exhausts so I think I'm keeping it low, that way if I reinforce the seat to take the weight of me and a passenger the girl wont get a stripe too.

For a racer I'd say up level looks better, but I just know I'll have issues with the hot tailpipe up high near everything.

I might be able to get it up underneath the seat if I can have the seatpost high enough to clear a 5" hole between the top of the tire and the rear fairing. I have a piece of bent conduit to route the pipe up possibly, which would look nice I think.
 
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16v4nrbrgr

Active Member
Mar 17, 2012
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Coffee break

Prolly gonna shorten the canister a couple inches.

I can put some lockwire around the pipe or a spring here if it needs it

A little simple mettalurgy goes very far, this mild steel rod was very soft and I bent it to final shape with my bare hands, to keep it in its shape, I heated the crtitical areas red hot in a carburizing flame slowly and quenched them. Now it's stiff enough to support the pipe.

I can still bolt in a inner fender to keep crap from flinging onto the motor since the mount is a fastener in itself. It holds the allthread inside the pipe so I can quickly change the guts of the muffler with the acorn nut.
 

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16v4nrbrgr

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Mar 17, 2012
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So there's that, put a couple 1/16 holes for a spring to hold the pipe down to the crescent.

Now onto the brake master mounting bracket and then the pedal, then the forks. The brake caliper needs a mount, the drum slot needs an adaptor, and it needs a couple tacks on the steering tube adaptation.

There's still a ton of stuff to do, chipping away at it slowly...
 

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Wickedest1

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Oct 31, 2012
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very very nice craftsmanship...im impressed...i am also now subscribed to this thread 16...keep up the diligent work and u r sure to have one heck of a reliable mode of transport...good job
 

16v4nrbrgr

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Mar 17, 2012
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Thanks Wickedest1

Today I will paint and assemble the frame, and while I'm at it get a kill switch harness together and make the redundant cable brake drum work on the front wheel. Almost getting to a running bike!
 

16v4nrbrgr

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Mar 17, 2012
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Welded a camel toe on on the front hub for the drum brake tab on the forks :p

I welded a reinforcement/bracket on the rear to have a place to bolt a tool box to for the battery, + a shiny coat of paint.

Painted the little nub I had to grind off from the old steering damper bracket which conflicts with the OCC frame. The old steering tube remant used for adapting the fork is tacked in four places, and cn be dremeled off if these re used on a threaded 1" bike later, doubtful though.

Just a sample of the random crap strewn across my place, lol. The hub I painted silver to match the wheel, and random brackets flat black epoxy. My head clamp was starting to corrode so I painted it black, seems the brushed finish causes corrosion. I drilled holes in the ears for the headlight to accept the mirror stalks.
 

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16v4nrbrgr

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Mar 17, 2012
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Thanks Wickedest,

Trying to figure out this Dellorto PHVA clone carb tuning, found this pic, maybe it's helpful to fellow riders using this carburetor.
 
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16v4nrbrgr

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Mar 17, 2012
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I found out that the idle screw is the one with the spring, and the other one inset in the float bowl with no spring is mixture.
 
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16v4nrbrgr

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Mar 17, 2012
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Here's why it's not good to rush, you just end upgoing back and doing it right. Better now than later :)

This makes it so the pedal chain side isn't janky, now there's a real idler instead of a nylon bushing on a bolt.

Here's a sturdy mount for the 3/8 bolt that holds the drive idler from Pirate.
 

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16v4nrbrgr

Active Member
Mar 17, 2012
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North Bay

Wiring, yuckkk! Hoping to finish this pinout nightmare tomorrow.

Today I finished hooking up the drum brake as a e-brake using a happy time clutch handle, so if the bike rocks forward it won't fall off its stand, and it can idle with the wheel spinning. Pics once I download.
 

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