maytag board tracker

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Banjoben

New Member
Aug 12, 2012
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Hello all, just joined up here since I finally scored a donor bike for my build. It looks to be a mid 40s Western flyer. Its got 24" tires, a skip tooth chain, and a Bendix coaster brake. the only identifying mark on the bike was the pedals, that are stamped "Western Flyer". the head badge is gone, and it has been repainted. It's in ride-able condition ( I took it around the block) but very small for me. I hope that my mods will make it a bit more comfortable.
The plan is to make a board track tribute bike using a 2 cylinder Maytag model 72 I have sitting on a shelf. I'm going to extend the frame about 5 inches, and I plan on building some version of the flat belt drive setup with the large hoop in the rear wheel.
I'm just starting my search for parts, including some white or clay colored tires, some sort of jack shaft, some leather belt (cheaper than what I've found so far) a springer fork, or some springs to do my own build.
I work at a fab shop, so I'll be making a lot of my own parts. I have pics, and will be uploading stuff as soon as I can get it on the 'puter.
I'm sure I'll have a lot of questions. This looks like a pretty neat forum.
 
Ludwig II

Ludwig II

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Jul 17, 2012
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You're gong to have fun with that. There are a couple of Maytag bikes already on Youtube, so there's already referece material at hand for you.
 
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Banjoben

New Member
Aug 12, 2012
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Great link, thanks.. Ludwig, yes I've seen at least 2 Maytag bikes on youtube. they are what helped me decide to use that motor. I'm sure mine will wind up being a bit different yet. I don't even know what orientation I'm going to put the engine in. It's a 2-stroke, so just about anything is possible. I might even stand it on end (Fouling of the lower cylinder is a concern I need to investigate first) I think I'll be keeping the original flywheel, but that's yet to be seen as well. Pedal clearance is a big factor there. I don't know how much the extended frame is going to get me yet, or how far I'm going to extend it.
I think I might try for the leaf spring type setup on the forks. as long as I have to build something, it might as well be different.
 
Ludwig II

Ludwig II

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Jul 17, 2012
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The flywheel will really cap your acceleration (think continental drift), but it will be so lazy and long legged once it's rolling.
 
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Banjoben

New Member
Aug 12, 2012
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Ok. running with the longitudinal idea, I'm thinking the flywheel is gonna go. I'm thinking that a smaller flywheel, just enough to keep things smooth, mounted on the output would be better. I gotta make the timing adjustable, and I'm starting the hunt for a 90degree drive box. possibly out of a lawn tractor or a tiller. this is all still in the brainstorming mode and is subject to change, but this is the fun part.
There's so many good ideas to be found hunting around this site and others.
 
motorhedfred

motorhedfred

Member
Jul 31, 2009
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I assume you're familiar with Buddfab's Shelby bicycle on Youtube, if not here's the link.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-oLV9DW_n8

Notice that his doesn't have the large flywheel/cooling fan. You might also notice that his is friction drive. If you don't fancy friction drive the engine's output shaft will have to turn the same direction as the wheels rather than opposite.

This can be accomplished by having the output on the right side of the bike, or by reversing it's rotation. I can't think of a single reason other than possibly the lubrication grooves in the crankshaft main bearings and they might work fine as well.

I have a couple of suggestions that might make the engine breath more efficiently. I have not personally tried these, so I'm not sure how well they might work, so take them for what they're worth.

The intake of the stock engine is a tortuous route through numerous passages that are not needed when not used as a stationary engine with the fuel tank and fuel bowl being the same part. Buddfab worked around this by putting a carburetor on it drawing through from the air inlet tube hole in the block. This obviously works, but is a compromise. I believe the engine would breath better if the intake flow was coming in right at the hole in the crankshaft. That would mean using a small updraft carburetor (hard to find), or flipping the engine over and using a small downdraft (much easier to find).

This would put the exhaust ports on top which isn't neccesarily bad, but could be remedied by porting the engine cases to allow intake flow with the barrels rotated 180 degrees like this guy's engine (if you can stand watching the guy mug for the camera).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I67FI5ABQxE&feature=related

I believe there's room for improvement on intake flow by putting a lead radius and trailing radius on the intake hole in the crankshaft. Better flow and longer intake timing, similar to adding more lift and duration to a 4 stroke camshaft.

BTW, here's a link to some pics of Buddfab's Maytag powered Shelby at a show, all painted and polished. The first pic clearly shows his adjustable ignition timing control.

http://www.pt-photos.com/Maytag.htm

Amazing how much these little buggers sound like a 4 stroke.
 
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motorhedfred

motorhedfred

Member
Jul 31, 2009
421
17
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United States
The bottom drawing illustrates what I was talking about for helping the little guy breath better. I'd remove the governer too. Just be careful you don't over-rev it and break one of those bronze connecting rods.
 
B

Banjoben

New Member
Aug 12, 2012
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N.Y.
Wow! thanks for all the input guys. Lots of great stuff. I've played with maytags for a while. I also have a model 92 and a Model A wringer washer for it to go on. My plan had been from the start to remove the governor, and find a carb that would work. there are 2 ports to choose from at the intake, 90 degrees from one another, to mount a carb. I'm sure something will present it's self. The plan for the ignition is a total loss system, just running a coil off of a battery. The original magneto is no good (Common on 72 maytags). so I will likely be doing a variation on Buddfab's timing adjustment setup.
Whosawhats build looks very close to what I'm going for. I like the leaf spring forks, and large belt hoop final drive.
the Douglas bikes are stunning, but not quit the look I'm aiming for. I'm really liking the longitudinal setup idea. that would give good airflow to the cylinders, and give it an early BMW look (If BMW had ever made board trackers)
I have seen Buddfabs bike, and some of his other projects. He is an amazing builder, and I aspire to be able to create things like he can do.
My latest idea for a transmission is one of the rubber wheel and disc setups off of a lawn tractor. It could be made very compact, and offer selectable speeds (I could have a big ol' suicide shifter!)
Thanks for all
 
silverbear

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
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northeastern Minnesota
Welcome to the forum. It looks like you have a great project going. I love the old Maytags and years before I was playing with motorbikes gave mine away. Not that I need another project. It was just a single cylinder model anyway.

Yes, this is a great forum with some very helpful and knowledgeable members.
SB
 
Ludwig II

Ludwig II

Well-Known Member
Jul 17, 2012
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I found something out that may be of use. Tillers/cultivators use 90 degree reduction boxes to drive the rotors; Ryobi have one at a 6.52: ratio. It's one way to take the longitudinal drive to the back wheel, and echoes the ABC.
 
Ludwig II

Ludwig II

Well-Known Member
Jul 17, 2012
5,071
783
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UK
I had a reply on the Motored Bikes board about this; drive reversal through what is possibly a worm drive is not a Good Idea, unless you put a freewheel or something in the drive train between it and the driven wheel.
 
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