Custom Billet Head... I haven't seen this one

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Huffydavidson

Huffydavidson

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Jan 29, 2012
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That has the inside squash Like a Pirate head . And I'm going to take a guess since you said Florida let me put a city on it Clearwater Florida ? It definitely will not cool like a Fred head there's not enough metal to radiate to heat . My pirate ran great but it didn't cool worth a dam . The day I got my Fred head I sold my pirate head as fast I could , it was a cool looking POS.
 
2door

2door

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Just an engineering note: The thicker the cooling fins the less they will dissipate heat. Those fins look much thicker than a stock head.

To compare you'd need to 'CC' the combustion chamber to see how much smaller it is than a stock head. That will take some specialized equipment but you can do a 'ballpark' comparison by just filling them with a measured amount of water/fluid to see which holds the most. Bigger = less compression. Smaller = higher compression.

If that head is out of Clearwater FL, I have a good guess who's making it. Buyer beware!

Tom
 
MotorBicycleRacing

MotorBicycleRacing

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2door said:
If that head is out of Clearwater FL, I have a good guess who's making it. Buyer beware!

Tom
Click to expand...
Come on Tom, Jim who was the manic mechanic is Really out of the machining business.

George, a really nice guy took over the Manic Mechanic sprocket adapter and other parts business.

This head is sold by an guy that makes parts specifically for the Schwinn choppers so there is no link to what you are alluding too.

I don't know who is making the heads for them but it is not Jim.

Here is the site that sells those billet heads.
http://www.pedalchopper.com

PedalChopper
Fort Myers, Florida

They have some interesting parts.

http://www.pedalchopper.com/aftermarket-machined-billet-aluminum-parts/


 
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Huffydavidson

Huffydavidson

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Ya, I went to that site and they look like their on the up and up, even got Paypal that reassuring to buyers .
 
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mapbike

mapbike

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Yep pedalchoppers is the site, and now that I think of it it does seem that I have seen a pic or two somewhere with that head on an engine, maybe a youtube vid or something.

Its funny that you would mention the thickness of the cooling fins Tom, I had thought the same thing when I saw it, I wouldnt want something to cool any less than a stock head does, somethng that does seem odd to me is how I keep reading posts about overheating issues with the stock head and as was mentioned earlier in this thread an issue with the pirate head causing engine overheating.
I guess I'm not sure how hot is to hot on these engines.....?

I live in central Texas and this time of year for at least 3 or so months we have triple digit heat almost every single day and riding my bikes here with the stock heads I always shave down and make thinner head gaskets for, Ive yet to have a single issue/failure with an overheated engine, I ride my bikes into town many times throughout the summer months and those are trips made for 8-10 miles at close to WOT the entire time, I have not had any major engine failures since switching to Opti2 oil either so maybe that has something to do with it, not sure about that one and not intending to open the Opti2 can of worms here, just my personal experience and it has been a good one for four years now.

Tom, the way you described to cc the head doesn't seem crude to me at all, back in the old hot rod days we could buy a kit made of clear plastic that would go over the combustion chamber and we added water from syringe to check how many cc the chamber was if we didn't already know by another way to identify, we knew the double hump or as some said camel hump small block Chevy heads were 64cc and the old 265 and 283 power pack heads were around 57cc chambers, I knew most of these just by sight, markings or casting numbers.

Anyway so much for all that ........LOL!

Thanks for all the input and opinions here fellas, personally since I have never had any overheating issues I wouldn't be afraid of running one of these pedalchopper heads just to see how it works, I like its look better than any I've seen so far, I will contact pedalchoppers and ask what the combustion chamber size is, maybe I can get some info right from the horses mouth to help me decide if it's a road Ill go down or not, if I dont like the reply I get I'll just go with another head, maybe the "Fred Head" which is also a good looking head, I never liked the looks of the manic/pirate head, reminds me of an ash tray...... no offense intended to anyone who may run one or like them, just my thoughts here.

Peace and Happy Riding, map
 
mapbike

mapbike

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Went over to CR machines web site again just to see the design difference in his heads, I can easily see why the CR head will run cooler, I had forgot how it was made, I'm now thinking about a CR machine piston and the 6.0cc head for the lower I bought form Dax, I have a jug I plan to deck and clean the ports up in and then Ill use the shorty pirate/manic intake with the adjustable Dellorto Style carb pedal choppers is selling or maybe just another of the RT carbs Dax has, I've had good success with the RT carb from DAX, zero issues and it runs nice on one of my bikes, no performace increase noticed over the old NT carb but I like the choke set up on it better than the NT carb.



.bf.
 
16v4nrbrgr

16v4nrbrgr

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That looks a lot like the cheap high comp heads for the big bore Cagllari pocket bike engines. Is somebody remachining them for the HT or is it a different part?

They seem to work fine on 11k rpm Cags, 2 stroke heads are pretty hard to screw up.
 
mapbike

mapbike

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it is a custom made head specifically for the HT engine, I know they've been around for a good while just dont know anyone who had one so figured I'd ask about results from someone who has.
 
mew905

mew905

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I dont know why anyone's remotely worried about heat issues. Even in the heat of summer my motor cant even boil water on direct contact, I got a peak reading of 202F on the head and 226F on the hottest part of the exhaust, 350 seems to be the upper limit and that usually only happens if you're really, really giving it... even though I'll hit 202 after WOT @ around 7300 RPM.

If you're really worried about temps, get a head with a squish band, like the Puch heads. While it does up compression it does also "protect" part of the gas mix from detonating with the rest of the mix. This means you'll lose some power (and is often made up for by the extra compression in the chamber itself) but it'll also keep the cylinder and piston cooler by containing the blast for a bit. for ridiculous cooling, lots of aluminum fins (to almost resemble a CPU heatsink) and a combustion chamber angled to the intake side of the motor (like the stock angle-fire head, but with a squish band over the whole exhaust half) will keep temperatures relatively even across the chamber and piston, allow better cooling from the squish band effect, and with good spark timing (retarding, the jag CDI [or similar] really does work in terms of reliability, performance is another, untested issue) you can probably keep temps under 200F. But... heat atomization boosts power (smaller gas molecules burn easier) so you're looking at losing power in favor of temperatures.

In short, while its hard to screw up a 2-stroke head, it's also really hard to make one thats actually good.
 
Huffydavidson

Huffydavidson

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That's a RSE Head and JNM sell them . Got freind who got one runs just hot as that pirate head. I tellin ya it can be 95 degrees out and I cruise at 290 and run flat-out for mile I may kiss 360 with the RCMACHINE 6.0 . You keep the others. I run TTO gauges so I know my temp&rpms
 
mew905

mew905

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Huffydavidson said:
That's a RSE Head and JNM sell them . Got freind who got one runs just hot as that pirate head. I tellin ya it can be 95 degrees out and I cruise at 290 and run flat-out for mile I may kiss 360 with the RCMACHINE 6.0 . You keep the others. I run TTO gauges so I know my temp&rpms
Click to expand...
what are yours temps of the head within 10 seconds of shutting off the motor? I realize the motor would probably get hotter as it runs hard but without a vapor gauge I cant check (I'm using an IR temperature gun), however if your temps are close to mine immediately after shutting down, I'll retract my statement :)
 
Huffydavidson

Huffydavidson

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My TTO takes its sensor readings from the spark plug. The center core of the heat of the engine. Trail Tech industries the manufacture of the gauges stated that they are accurate within 3 to 5 degrees . And your exhaust temperature should be the same as your head temperature . Good luck.
 
maniac57

maniac57

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This is only an issue if you are trying to jet for max power.
Got an overheating problem?
Richen the mixture to fix it.
You can get more out of a good head than a stocker because it can dissipate more heat, but it still needs richer than optimum jetting for cooling and lubrication.
ALL two-strokes are this way compared to a four stroke.
Leave a little bit of power on the table for reliability.
 
I

ivan H

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Hi, as a few have said, that is a Rock Solid Engines head, designed & developed by "Brains" who has posted on here a few years back while developing it. I've used 1 for a couple of years on my reeded motor. Pretty hi comp with squish set at 0.030" (yes it has a squish band, around 30% of bore I think), tho it can be set as low as 0.020". I've heard people describe the comp at that clearance as radical & I imagine it would be. The chamber is a Pentworth design. I live in Queensland, Australia so summer temprratures can be freakin hot & I've had no heat issues, & I'm running a home made Jag type CDI modified for a slight advance of initial firing (tho it also has a steeper retard curve to keep it on the pipe, which has extended header length). One thing, the plug has to either be side gapped or indexing shims used to avoid plug/piston crown contact. Rock Solid Engines recommends a small end bearing upgrade (at least) when using this head & definitely no brass bush for the small end as it will fail. Another thing I just thought of,,, the chamber will be just a smidge larger diameter than ur bore as these are designed for the RSE engine which are slightly overbored to be a true 70cc. It doesnt seem to really matter tho, mine is a 66cc & I know several others using them on 66's. They also make the for 48cc. U can also get the complete top end kit, jug/piston/head (70cc & 48cc) with or without ceramic coated piston. Hope this helps. Cheers
 
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L

lenny9651

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i can see from the picture that the head in question has a fin design flaw. the fins should run paralell when mounted to take advantage of maximum air flow, but the 90 degree bend in the fins means only the leading half of the head will get proper air flow. i'm no engineer but i'm pretty sure that an alminium head that is half cool and half hot is going to cause a problem at some point.
 
maniac57

maniac57

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Aluminum transfers heat well enough that it evens out. There is still enough airflow to keep hotspots from being a problem just from fin orientation. I've owned lots of dirt bikes over the years with weird cooling fin layouts and never had any kind of problem with uneven cooling.
It's more a matter of fin area than fin placement.
Two-strokes simply don't overheat that often if you jet them properly.
 
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