I need a damaged bolt remover.... REMOVER?

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Farthom

New Member
May 16, 2010
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Canada
I am in a bit of a sticky situation, having sheared off my motor mount studs.... I went to the store, and dropped 80 bucks on a damaged bolt remover kit. Using said kit, I drilled into the bolt, successfully, then switched over to the other "grippy" bit. It gripped, as it was designed to do, but then the damaged bolt remover, sheared off inside the sheared off bolt!

F**K!

Those things are made of the hardest metal ever.... no hacksaw, drill bit, or dremel seems to be able to even dent it. So here I am, 80 bucks poorer and in a stickier situation than before....

So, I seek advice. Aside from scrapping this engine (I would rather not, since this is my best performing engine) how can I fix this situation....
 
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Ciro

New Member
Jun 18, 2012
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Hot Springs, Arkansas
Drill it out and tap it, the grippy thing you were using was trying to back the bolt out, since that isn't working drill it out far enough to hit the threads then use the next size up to make a smooth bore and use a tap and die set to re thread the hole to use a thicker bolt, I was at lowes today and saw lots of bolts that look just like the stock motor mount bolts but thicker, considered drilling the holes bigger and tapping the holes out on mine before I shear the stock ones off.
 
wayne z

wayne z

Active Member
Dec 5, 2010
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louisiana
I have seen an experienced welder fuse an arc weld rod onto the end of a mess like this, and used the rod to unscrew it. The heat from doing this will also help loosten things.
 
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Farthom

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May 16, 2010
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Canada
No loc-tite. I never removed the stud. It actually broke off while riding. I suspect it was either cross threaded from factory, or the stress somehow seized it in there. (Cold Weld?) I dont think I have any workable options here as I am not willing to drop more money on tools when I could have bought two brand new engines for the amount I have spent trying to repair this one. To the scrap box I think......
 
Goat Herder

Goat Herder

Gutter Rider
Apr 28, 2008
6,237
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N.M.
Broken easy outs like the OP's here can be carefully and patiently chiseled out. With a sharpen punch and a careful aim.. The hardened steel of the remover tool is actually brittle enough to do this. What this means is it can be broken into crumbs and simply fall out leaving you with just the bolt and the hole you previously drilled in it open again.
 
headtrama

headtrama

Member
Jul 8, 2010
886
2
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california
good advice on trying to chisel it out , You can also use a small punch to break it up . Sears has a bolt extractor set that's pretty good and not to expensive . It is very easy to brake small easy outs you need to drill the hole in the bolt pretty deep so you are using the thicker part of the tool. Also you need to be careful not to put side pressure on it while trying to turn it .
 
Al.Fisherman

Al.Fisherman

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Sep 9, 2009
1,966
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Calera, Alabama
Farthom said:
Those things are made of the hardest metal ever.... no hacksaw, drill bit, or dremel seems to be able to even dent it. So here I am, 80 bucks poorer and in a stickier situation than before....
Click to expand...

headtrama said:
good advice on trying to chisel it out , You can also use a small punch to break it up . Sears has a bolt extractor set that's pretty good and not to expensive . It is very easy to brake small easy outs you need to drill the hole in the bolt pretty deep so you are using the thicker part of the tool. Also you need to be careful not to put side pressure on it while trying to turn it .
Click to expand...
Where is the broken stud in, front or rear mount? Post a picture....
 
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nightcruiser

New Member
Mar 25, 2011
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USA
I'm not trying to divert you from your quest to remove this bolt, but after reading about the $$ you're spending on the tools only to break them off in the broken bolt I thought I might add...
A new crankcase body is only $22 bucks, the complete bottom end is $74. I think you can still get free shipping on the bottom end (it's parts and over $50) Working from a new bottom end should be pretty easy, you just need to move the piston and jug over. Splitting the crank case can be a lot of work, if the motor is well broken in it might split easier. If you go with case only you will probably learn a lot about your motor in the process of rebuilding it (if you haven't done so before). Personally, if I was you and could afford the $74 bucks I would probably just get rolling on a new bottom end, then take my time and poke at this old one. After all, summer is short! Hopefully you'll get that stud out eventually, worst case scenario you have a bunch of spare parts...
 
donphantasmo

donphantasmo

Member
Oct 3, 2010
372
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Middleburg, FL
Wayne Z is right. I work on Airplanes, and somethime when we have to change the tires, and the flathead (yeah, they still make flat head screws) screws are so stripped. I'd get a welder, and weld a large enough bead on it to get a good set of vice grips and just turn and turn. Don't drill any more. You can probably save the threads...
 
Ibedayank

Ibedayank

New Member
Oct 29, 2011
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Columbia Tennessee
donphantasmo said:
Wayne Z is right. I work on Airplanes, and somethime when we have to change the tires, and the flathead (yeah, they still make flat head screws) screws are so stripped. I'd get a welder, and weld a large enough bead on it to get a good set of vice grips and just turn and turn. Don't drill any more. You can probably save the threads...
Click to expand...
weld washer to the stud...weld nut to the washer and turn out the broken stud.weld
 
Al.Fisherman

Al.Fisherman

New Member
Sep 9, 2009
1,966
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Calera, Alabama
birdmannn101 said:
Farthom,

"Been there and Done that" A friend of mine brought down his Sears Craftsman damaged bolt remover kit (he bought for $20), tapped one on and used a impact wrench to remove it. Been meaning to pick one up for myself...Dan
Click to expand...
Nice tool, but the bolt has to protrude about 1/2" so it can be griped. If the bolt is sheared off below the mount surface, trying to removing it at this point will be fruitless. I believe the OP stared that the bolt sheared off inside, but hard to say as he doesn't really explain in the original post.

Farthom said:
Using said kit, I drilled into the bolt, successfully, then switched over to the other "grippy" bit. It gripped, as it was designed to do, but then the damaged bolt remover, sheared off inside the sheared off bolt!
Click to expand...
 
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