hi guys i have pkjet80 slanthead from zoom, i just notice this cold season i have a hardtime to start the engine, i have a pullstart. i dunno weather my carb is always empty ,coz everytime i run the engine i need to push the tickler button several times until the gas come out on the tickler it means its full and i start it its ok , but i never had this problem when its summer time i dont use tickler button that much. i always lock the petlock after use . i dont see bubbles on the tube so it means its ok
carburator always empty
- Thread starter gian
- Start date
Cold weather starts on almost any internal combustion engine, especially one using a carburetor, is a little more difficult than during warmer temperature days. If you have to use the primer (tickler) that's not uncommon. It sinks the float and provides a slighly righer mixture which ignites better when cool. Have you tried using your choke? It will also richen up the mix but can easily cause an over rich condition that might make starting even harder if overused. Don't be too concerned with visible bubbles in the fuel line. That is not an indication that the carb is empty. The siphoning effect and vaporization is responsible for the bubbles you see. It will clear up when the engine starts and begins using fuel. If your float is adjusted correctly it will control carburetor fuel level and your petcock will prevent siphoning fuel from the tank and flooding the engine and carb when the engine is not running.
Tom
Tom
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You could always just hop on it and bump start it down a big hill!
(pull starting is much harder than bump starting!!!!)
(pull starting is much harder than bump starting!!!!)
the best mothod to me is to use a hair dryer. honestly it works tickle your tickler a few times then turn the hair dryer on its hottest. heat ur cylinder up for no longer than 2 minuits. 1 pull start. yay. my dad has an old aussie muscle car and he does everyday in winter i do on my whipper snippers
A properly tuned engine will only need the tickler and/or choke to start.
No heat should be needed.
No heat should be needed.
You could always just hop on it and bump start it down a big hill!
(pull starting is much harder than bump starting!!!!)
That is an understatement. I tried a pullstart for awhile but gave up on that REAL quick! Can't imagine why anyone would prefer that over pedal and let clutch out.
the tickler DOES NOT change the mixture. it only adds more gas to the bowl
on mornings in the fourties i have had to hold down the tickler till gas ran out the bottom for it to start in a few pedels. several guys here do this.
stay dry
gubba
on mornings in the fourties i have had to hold down the tickler till gas ran out the bottom for it to start in a few pedels. several guys here do this.
stay dry
gubba
Excuse me but the tickler DOES change the mixture. When you allow more fuel to air to mix in the carburetor you enrichen the charge being introduced into the combustion chamber. Hence, a RICHER mixture. Because when released, the float, supposedly, returns to a properly adjusted position the mix then reverts to normal. Or whatever it was before you depressed the tickler (primer) button. What would be the advantage to "adding more gas to the bowl" if it wasn't to enrichen/change the mixture?
Tom
when you push the tickler dow the fuel needs to go somewhere so it squeezes its way past the needle and mainjet and right down your intake into the motor hence definately richining the mixture but yes when you press the tickler it does let more fuel in to the bowl... it's verry cold here and I havent had any problems starting cold yet no prime no choke just a few pedals and it fires.
the ONLY way to change the mixture is the brass slide pib clip setting and the choke . read some books on the subject, or have someone read them to you...
stay dre
gubba
stay dre
gubba
I'll see if I can find someone who can read. I typically just look at the pictures.
Tom
Tom
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LOL! No doubt SOMEBODY needs to do a little reading.
The needle clip only effects mixture near idle and has no effect at WOT where most of these motors are run. The choke does richen to help with starting but only at the cost of air flow which reduces power.Changing the jet or the float level are the only ways to alter mixture at all throttle settings.
Moving the needle clip up or down will change the mid range mixture (because the needle is tapered as it slides up.)
Idle is set with the screw on the side of the carb (but it doesn't change the mixture.) WOT mixture is changed by re-jetting.
Idle is set with the screw on the side of the carb (but it doesn't change the mixture.) WOT mixture is changed by re-jetting.
I'll stir the pot a little more....I like to change the taper of the needle to change the midrange.
If you get the top end right, then change the taper of the needle, and get the mid range right, then do Egor's carb mod to get them to pull right off the bottom, you have acheived the same thing as just using a carb off of another 50cc engine.
P.S. gubba, I genuinely hope you were kidding and not trying to offend anyone with that nugget.
If you get the top end right, then change the taper of the needle, and get the mid range right, then do Egor's carb mod to get them to pull right off the bottom, you have acheived the same thing as just using a carb off of another 50cc engine.
P.S. gubba, I genuinely hope you were kidding and not trying to offend anyone with that nugget.
