New engine gets put-put, only sometimes :/

GoldenMotor.com

thatguyjay

New Member
Nov 27, 2012
31
0
0
Sacramento
hey gang, I'm sure this ground has been covered a few times but I'm hoping to get some direction.

I finally got my kit together and now I'm tackling the engine actually running.

The problem is that at best I've gotten the bike to start maybe 5 times, after getting it up to a speed, 10-12 MPH and then pedaling hard and it will sputter on and run for maybe half a block or about a minute at a low speed then it starts to sputter out.

All the other-hundred times I'm just exhausting myself pedaling with this engine making a "waahhhhhhrrrrr" sound and doesn't kick over.

It never continues to run with the clutch disengaged either.

What I've tried so far:

*The pin in the carb slide, I started at the top and moved it down one by one to the last setting, no real change.

*I tightened the spark plug in, funny it may have actually started better when the spark plug was a little loose but not too loose.

*I played with the idle screw on the side of the carb, similarly, no effect.

*Not sure if the choke should be up/closed/on or if it should be down/open/off or but I've tried both and it didn't seem to matter.

*I've bypassed the kill switch and tried switching the wires, in fact it only starts when black is wired to blue and blue is wired to black (wtf??)

My engine is a standard china girl as you guys call them. The break in fuel is mixed at 16:1 because that's what the chinese instructions say to do.

Cold and wet for the last two days when I've been trying to start it, but it's CA so, mid 40s.

I really hope I can get some guidance on this, I am so close and when it DOES work it feels like magic!
 
Last edited:

rustycase

Gutter Rider
May 26, 2011
2,746
5
0
Left coast
Too much oil in the fuel, for starters. switch to thirty to one or forty to one.
drop the factory plug in the trash can and get an NGK.

try those first before all the other fiddlin' around! :)

might as well pick up a fuel filter when you are buying the new plug.

do not use/disconnect kill switch 'til everything else is perfect.

Best
rc
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
158
63
USA
I always use 16:1 for a new motor. If you're right about wiring backwards to get it to start, I'd suspect a problem with the CDI, but could just be a bad spot in a wire somewhere.

You'll need to go over everything though to rule out air leaks, compression problems, throttle problems and suchlike.
 

thatguyjay

New Member
Nov 27, 2012
31
0
0
Sacramento
Thanks for the replies,

so to clarify, I did get the NGK plug and new sparkplug wire (resistance wire but lots of people on the forums have said that's OK) and I also added a little fuel filter, 2 bucks from spooky tooth also I cut all new gaskets from paper at the auto store. This was all during the build phase.

I realize people have lots of opinons on breaking ratios but I know a guy and he ran his motor at 16:1 to break in and that's what the Chinese instructions recommend.

Now, about "going over everything...and suchlike" haha I'm a noob but I've learned a lot on this forum. I've checked all the things I said in my post and I've made sure it's all tight.

The engine starts if you pedal hard, but it after it gets a little warmed up it starts crapping out.
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
158
63
USA
I've seen this when a guy mixed his fuel in one can & poured into his tank from another, getting straight gas. I've seen 2 red bat motors that were shipped with over-sized pistons that bound up as soon as they warmed.

In this case, I suspect the CDI. Rewire correctly again, and if it does nothing get a new one (if it isn't the problem, at least you'll have a spare).
 

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
22
0
memphis Tn
Try taking the gas cap loose. It can vapor lock due to not venting when tight. As soon as the cap is tight, the fuel flowing out causes a vacuum that eventually stops flow. I poke a tiny hole in all my caps after getting four kits in a row with this problem. Hope it helps!
 
Last edited:

thatguyjay

New Member
Nov 27, 2012
31
0
0
Sacramento
UPDATE: sorry it took so long but when I get home from work it's dark and has been raining, so I only have the weekends to work on this.

I'm about ready to put this thing in the box "return to sender"!

I loosened the cap and tried to get it to start, today it's being a bigger ***** than it was the other day!

I'm out of breath from the process (not that I'm in peak physical condition anyway).

The only way it ever started was getting up to over 10MPH and letting in the clutch, peddling HARD with WOT until it puttered.

THIS time, I got maybe one or two puts out of the thing the rest of the time I'm just pushing hard and it's not going.

I don't know if anyone can help me at this point. I don't mind learning as I go but with this blasted thing I never GO!
 

Venice Motor Bikes

Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
Mar 20, 2008
7,271
1,810
113
Los Angeles, CA.
Try setting the choke lever about 3/4 of the way up to start it, (not all the way up).
After it starts, then slowly move the choke down as it heats up.

Also... Use 24:1 gas & oil mix. 16:1 is a little too heavy on the oil.
 

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
22
0
memphis Tn
Thanks for the replies,

so to clarify, I did get the NGK plug and new sparkplug wire (resistance wire but lots of people on the forums have said that's OK) and I also added a little fuel filter, 2 bucks from spooky tooth also I cut all new gaskets from paper at the auto store. This was all during the build phase.

I realize people have lots of opinons on breaking ratios but I know a guy and he ran his motor at 16:1 to break in and that's what the Chinese instructions recommend.

Now, about "going over everything...and suchlike" haha I'm a noob but I've learned a lot on this forum. I've checked all the things I said in my post and I've made sure it's all tight.

The engine starts if you pedal hard, but it after it gets a little warmed up it starts crapping out.
32:1 is plenty rich for any engine break-in. 16:1 is too much 40+years of two-stroke engine experience backs me up on this.
It does sound like you have some sort of problem. If you have spark, it has to be air or fuel. Leaks? too rich? Clogged jet? I once saw a chinagirl with no hole in the exhaust gasket for the gas to flow, only bolt holes. Luckily, I pulled the pipe early on to check for clogging and discovered it.
 

thatguyjay

New Member
Nov 27, 2012
31
0
0
Sacramento
UPDATE as of TODAY (10 minutes ago in fact)

I got the little girl running!

Here are the adjustments I made:

moved the pin back to the second detent from the last one, so I don't flood the engine when it doesn't start the first couple times.

I didn't see gas flowing into the fule line so I cut a bunch of slack off of it so is wasn't so "S" curved and I took out the filter that was screwed to the fule valve inside the tank.

When I unscrewed it a bunch of little black "dirt" or "pebbles" came out mixed in the gas.

Now it starts up every time!

Woot!

Time to break this sucker in!
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
6,631
409
83
Dallas
It sounds like it wants to start. You problem is probably operator error, which is common until you get the hang of it.

When the motor is cold use the choke. Since you haven't got it to run much you can count on your idle adjustment to be way off, so you'll have to make it idle by hand till you can warm it up some to adjustment it. Expect to have to screw the adjustment screw in at least a couple turns.

Pedal it up to about 8-10 mph. When you let the clutch out, keep pedaling hard. Start out with throttle about 1/4 open, and as you pedal osolate the the throttle between 1/4, to 3/4 open. At some point it will fire, probably somewhere around 1/2 throttle. Soom you'll learn where the throttle needs to be for fast starts.

Also several people mentioned about the gas cap vent. If you get it started and running good, and it dies after about a 1/2 mile, your vent in the cap might be blocked. You can tell if that's the problem if you can restart after loosening the cap to relieve the pressure.

When the weather turns warmer you probably won't need the choke.
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
UPDATE as of TODAY (10 minutes ago in fact)

I got the little girl running!

Here are the adjustments I made:

moved the pin back to the second detent from the last one, so I don't flood the engine when it doesn't start the first couple times.

I didn't see gas flowing into the fule line so I cut a bunch of slack off of it so is wasn't so "S" curved and I took out the filter that was screwed to the fule valve inside the tank.

When I unscrewed it a bunch of little black "dirt" or "pebbles" came out mixed in the gas.

Now it starts up every time!

Woot!

Time to break this sucker in!
This is the reason we always suggest you clean out a new tank before installing it. They come with rust and dirt in them that will quickly clog the in-tank filter. If they aren't cleaned they will also clog an in-line filter eventually.

You should have confirmed that you had good fuel flow before you ever tried starting the bike for the first time.
I'm glad you have it running and ask if you have further problems.

Tom