The *BEST* Solution for "THE" tensioner/pulley
- Thread starter longhorn6
- Start date
This is the instructions I read here in a post I am quoting:
If the link is at the top of the chain (going into the motor if you rolled the bike forward) the open end of the clip should face the back of the bike.
If the bike were to roll forward entering the motor on the bottom of the sprocket he had it right. It had not gone completely over the back sprocket yet in the pic.
I think the butler did it with the golf club in the closet.
If the link is at the top of the chain (going into the motor if you rolled the bike forward) the open end of the clip should face the back of the bike.
If the bike were to roll forward entering the motor on the bottom of the sprocket he had it right. It had not gone completely over the back sprocket yet in the pic.
I think the butler did it with the golf club in the closet.
That link has gone over the rear sprocket and is definitely facing the wrong direction. I suspect this is the major cause of complaints of "broken" chains.
Original XP Windoze Picture Viewer allows you to zoom w/o any special software or upgrades:
this photo is what you do not want to do the master link keeper open end is facing the wrong way
Original XP Windoze Picture Viewer allows you to zoom w/o any special software or upgrades:
this photo is what you do not want to do the master link keeper open end is facing the wrong way
Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
Alright, it's my bike in the picture with the master link clip on backwards. I put the clip on backwards just to test everyone on the forum. 2door was the only one who caught that it was on backwards. So 2door passed the test. Everyone else will be required to take an on-line 8 hour training class on how to properly install master link clips. Pay close attention because there will be a written and practical test at the end of the class.
If I decide I want to use my chain to grind a slot in my wheelstay, I will run without a tensioner. I have the original tensioner as a guide and a spring loaded roller to take up the slack. Nice thing about that is it takes less pressure on the chain to keep it from slapping around.
if you sharpen the teeth of the sprocket on a grinder on the faces (think blades not points), it makes it WAAAAAAY easier to adjust. I sharpened mine and my chain tensioner can move back and forth a full inch and the chain wont come off.
Actually, I PhotoShopped SportsCarpat's bike, flipped the master link clip around to see if anyone else would notice it...No, just kidding. Sure glad I don't have to go to that remedial class. I always hated staying after school.
Tom
Dang! I am already flunkin' real estate school! 100K a yr and I am e'flunkin' dang
Just for grins here's a video of a masterlink install:
Install the Master Link on a Street Bike: How to Replace the Sprocket & Chain on a Street Bike | eHow.com
Install the Master Link on a Street Bike: How to Replace the Sprocket & Chain on a Street Bike | eHow.com
Why the sad face 2 door? I was thinking it may be a good idea, since ive noticed how many times my stock chain tensioner let me down...
Tom
i see toms point very clearly.
i welded my tensioner bracket to the frame (go,ahead try and move now you little Pr#@$) was what i said after i welded it.im close to 300 km's and no issue.
did run without but as chain stretches/wears it needs to have slack taken up.
we can debate this issue to the end of time,for some it works with,others without.
not every build is the same. my grubee 66 is on a CCM mountain bike,probably different than most out there.
i welded my tensioner bracket to the frame (go,ahead try and move now you little Pr#@$) was what i said after i welded it.im close to 300 km's and no issue.
did run without but as chain stretches/wears it needs to have slack taken up.
we can debate this issue to the end of time,for some it works with,others without.
not every build is the same. my grubee 66 is on a CCM mountain bike,probably different than most out there.
My experience is welding it works best most of the time for my needs. It's secure and still allows easy adjustment without the hassle of shimming the motor mounts or half links.
I've built several bikes without a tensioner and I like the reduction in drag and noise, but getting the chain just right is a pain sometimes. Overall, the welded tensioner is the most convenient. I try to set them up for the least deflection possible which helps durability and keeps noise and drag to a minimum.
Of course,when you own a welder, everything needs to be tacked!
I've built several bikes without a tensioner and I like the reduction in drag and noise, but getting the chain just right is a pain sometimes. Overall, the welded tensioner is the most convenient. I try to set them up for the least deflection possible which helps durability and keeps noise and drag to a minimum.
Of course,when you own a welder, everything needs to be tacked!
