Never run either in thousands of miles. Never threw a chain, or broke a spoke.
The rag joint actually make lining up the sprockets pretty easy.
The rag joint actually make lining up the sprockets pretty easy.
It solved 90% of YOUR build problems, thanks for sharing your solution.If you want to eliminate 90% of your build problems these two items are a must
Hub adapter with sprocket
Kip Springer chain tensioner
Yes these two items cost nearly as much as the entire kit but the amount of headaches it will save you in the end will greatly out weigh the cost.
I will not divulge the maker of the adapter. This isn't a product review.I think your wrong on several points.
Getting the sprockets lined up with the rag adapter is a real
problem and furthermore driving the bike by the spokes is flinstone technology. Using the hub adapter allows for lateral adjustment to get perfect alignment between the the sprockets. Even if your able to get perfect alignment initially with the rag, its just a matter of before everything goes haywire.
The Kip Springer tensioner with the optional 10 tooth sprocket is absolutely trouble free after 2000 miles.
After Handlebars and Brakes I say Sprocket Adapter also. I don't use tensioners so Il'd say adapter and #41 machine chain @ tractor supply.I'm with maniac57 on this - wouldn't bother with either of those. If after several tries, one can't put the chain on right, then perhaps it isn't work one is suited for; take it to a mechanic.
There's the key to it all right there... #41 chain enough to do 2 bikes for $20.If you take your time and assemble a rag joint well you can get thousands of trouble free miles from them, I am at the 2,500 mark right now with mine (that beats you by 500 miles, with no sign of trouble in the future, I have to assume the rag joint and #41 chain will outlast my motor by far) . Also, if you can get away with running without a chain tensioner all together that is your best bet IHMO. It's been over 2,000 miles since I installed a #41 chain and ditched the tensioner, haven't had a single problem, haven't had to adjust anything, my chain drive has been rock solid (without the two expensive upgrades you mention).
A rag joint is a natural 'Cush' buffer between the motor and the wheel. It takes out a little bit of the 2-stroke motor pulse and jolts from sudden power changes like dropping the clutch from a fast coast with wide open throttle.I have two identical bikes. One has a rag joint, the other a hub adapter. The adapter equipped bike has a 'roughness' to the ride that I couldn't account for.
Tom
That is why the instructions call for 12 ga spokes. 14 will work, but will tear you to hel1 when they go out.Yeah all makes sense. Don't ya think it could be troublesome with small older spokes. I been thru 3 wheels in th very beginning due to spoke breakage at the nipple with rag joint on tht side-- I see the continual reversing of the torque ACC/DECC twinking them little 14G spokes til one gives feels like a dog tug under your ass then another then another then It's dangerous.
I think you need to calm down. you are creating a massive amount of fuss over nothing. The chances are hes not going to die because of the choice to run a rag joint over a hub adapter, your being stupid and it would be great if you would leave.Is that what you value your life?
"I used nylon lock nuts on my rag joint, so I don't understand why it came out of alignment. I replaced the rag and the mounting bolts, and got a new chain and it reduced the wobble. "