Wheel Master Rims ?
- Thread starter TANGO
- Start date
The huskys are nice ,if a little pricey . The heavy gage is the way to go however ,gota link to the page or dealer info?
Wheel Master wheels are basically the exact same as Husky's... I sell (& use) Wheel Masters on all of my bikes.
Thanks for the info Venice . I will be ordering them . One of my main concerns was if the rear Wheel Master Rim would work with a Hub Sprocket adapter I was told it will with the Large type . I can order them now Because BikeBerry E-Mailed me tonight with some B.S about canceling My Back ordered Super Rat Engine Kit . I am Going with a 4 Stroke Engine now that kind of B.S ticks me off . Well if anything now I might even have the Bike built sooner .
I have had these wheels for a couple years now with no problems.Just figure out if you want a coaster break or a freewheel which is what I use.If you go with the freewheel let me know I have a thread on sigle speed for it...cheap.Stay away from Bikeberry...they stole a photo of my bike and used it in there banner.
Thank's Motomagz hate to talk down any Vendors I am new to this Bike Building but not new at Building things . Just Looking for a few Places that are on the up and up . It's good to buy at more then just one Place . I did make an order just the other day for about $130.00 of Part Springer Forks and Bearings set and some other needed parts . If that Place works out I will order the Wheels from them as well . Later on when My Bike gets dialed in I am sure I will have to upgrade to a Front Wheel with Internal Brakes . I plan to start out with the coaster Brake Wheel . I know you can't count on the coaster brakes alone to slow Down a 30+ MPH 3-4 H.P Motorized Bike . And I am not sure if I can mount hand Brakes on the Springer Fork set up that I bought .
Yes... they have a 'Histop' rear coaster hub (Shimano CB-110 clone)... so they will work with those hub adapters.
Tango
Sound like you are getting good parts for your build. what are you using for a tranny/gear reduction.
Hi Venice, Do you recomend a coaster brake ? Could he buy a strong wheel with left hand thread`s on the left side for a nice freewheel drive sprocket set-up for his 4 stroke?
Ron .
Sound like you are getting good parts for your build. what are you using for a tranny/gear reduction.
Hi Venice, Do you recomend a coaster brake ? Could he buy a strong wheel with left hand thread`s on the left side for a nice freewheel drive sprocket set-up for his 4 stroke?
Ron .
I will be running a Mini Bike Type #41 10 Tooth Centrifugal Torque Clutch and I did not buy it yet but I think a 44 tooth Rear Sprocket on a Hub Adapter . Still kicking the Rear Sprocket size Idea around ?
Tango
are planning on running a chain from the motor clutch sprocket to the rear wheel sprocket ?? If you run a 60 tooth on the rear wheel that will give you a 6:1 final ratio. I`m thinking that will be under powered on a 26" wheel.
Elmo had around 10:1, thinking he was ok with that.
Just trying to help, not to offend or anything like that.
Ron
are planning on running a chain from the motor clutch sprocket to the rear wheel sprocket ?? If you run a 60 tooth on the rear wheel that will give you a 6:1 final ratio. I`m thinking that will be under powered on a 26" wheel.
Elmo had around 10:1, thinking he was ok with that.
Just trying to help, not to offend or anything like that.
Ron
I can go 62 or 66 Teeth . The Mini Bike had a 70 Tooth Gear but with much Shorter Tires . So what Gear you think I should Run ? I want off Line Power and 35 MPH Top End . I can't Find a Gear Larger then 66 Teeth that will bolt right on . If I have to I can Buy the 70 Tooth Mini Bike Sprocket and Drill it to Fit .
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You really need more reduction. The gear ratio calculator says 39.8 mph at 3600 rpm with a 10 to 70 or 7 to 1 reduction. You could use this affordablegokarts: 79cc Parts for the first stage and with a 56 tooth on the wheel will give you a 12.44 to one and 34.2 mph at 5500 rpm. anything under 11 to one will be hard on your clutch unless you pedal a lot.
hi elmo
Was hoping you would post what has worked on the `Flying Dutchman` for you.
My next build wil have the `Torque Converter` cvt on it or them. I thought "agk" was selling the comet cvt to members for $159. or somewhere near that price. A real bargain when you consider it all. That is what "Thumper" has, an aw-sum set-up, no doubt about that!! The comet cvt can be transfered to several different size motors.
Waiting for video`s of `Thumper` and of `Cobrafreak`s build.
Ron
Was hoping you would post what has worked on the `Flying Dutchman` for you.
My next build wil have the `Torque Converter` cvt on it or them. I thought "agk" was selling the comet cvt to members for $159. or somewhere near that price. A real bargain when you consider it all. That is what "Thumper" has, an aw-sum set-up, no doubt about that!! The comet cvt can be transfered to several different size motors.
Waiting for video`s of `Thumper` and of `Cobrafreak`s build.
Ron
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about the gears, im running 13 to 1 on my rat racer and that tops out at about 35mph
and it has savage acceleration. so i wuld recomend you to run 12/13 to 1 for best over all preformece
and it has savage acceleration. so i wuld recomend you to run 12/13 to 1 for best over all preformece
Regarding the original question about the wheels. I've used the Wheel Master from bikeworldusa, Husky wheels and Worksman.
Of the three I would pick an older Worksman in good condition even over a new one, the reason being that the chrome on the old ones was good quality. The recent Worksman wheels I've worked with are well made, but the chrome is poor for what you are paying. I think the chrome on the Husky is better quality, but the spokes are 12 gauge rather than 11 with the Worksman, still plenty strong for a motored bike.
The wheel master is a bargain for the money. The chrome quality is so so to poor and eventually they are going to rust unless you live somewhere dry like California or Arizona.
I've had the Histop coaster hub apart and they are pretty cheaply made, but only had one actually implode. What would you expect; the price is low? Still, they are much better than a thin spoked wallyworld bike. Especially if you expect to be riding at speed you need a stout wheel.
The absolute best bargain in my opinion requires teaching yourself how to re-lace a wheel, which is not all that hard. There are some very helpful videos on U tube leading you through the process.
Here's how I get a good coaster brake wheel on the cheap. I buy a new wheel master from bikeworldusa, take it apart and paint the rim (best would be to send it off for powder coating). Dump the Histop hub. The bearings are small and internal parts are not of real good quality. Find an older wheel with a Bendix hub. When you open one up you can see great machining, quality metal and big ball bearings. You'll need to drill out the spoke holes in the hub to accept the larger 12 gauge spokes, but this only takes a few minutes. Lace it up and you have a stout wheel that looks great and has good stopping power with a hub you can trust.
A little more trouble, but you can also use original balloon tire wheels from a 50's or earlier cruiser, drill out the spoke holes to accept 12 gauge nipples, lace in 12 gauge spokes (I buy the front wheel master and then lace it 4 cross for either a rear coaster brake hub or a front wheel hub with drum brake. It is as cheap to buy the whole wheel master wheel as it is to locate and purchase the spokes alone. My experience anyway.
So, best bargain is wheel master front wheel... powder coat rim... lace four cross to take up the extra length of the spokes (10 5/8" if I remember right) to a 70mm Husky or salvaged moped front drum brake or a Bendix rear coaster brake. You end up with a stout wheel, no rusting chrome, and good quality hubs at a bargain basement price. More effort is involved, but your end result is right up there in custom quality.
I'm no expert with this stuff and laced my first of many wheels this past spring. Now I'd rather build my own wheel than buy a ready made one, especially since I can build two or three for what a new Husky would cost me (that is if I use old moped hubs or Bendix coaster brake hubs).
SB
Of the three I would pick an older Worksman in good condition even over a new one, the reason being that the chrome on the old ones was good quality. The recent Worksman wheels I've worked with are well made, but the chrome is poor for what you are paying. I think the chrome on the Husky is better quality, but the spokes are 12 gauge rather than 11 with the Worksman, still plenty strong for a motored bike.
The wheel master is a bargain for the money. The chrome quality is so so to poor and eventually they are going to rust unless you live somewhere dry like California or Arizona.
I've had the Histop coaster hub apart and they are pretty cheaply made, but only had one actually implode. What would you expect; the price is low? Still, they are much better than a thin spoked wallyworld bike. Especially if you expect to be riding at speed you need a stout wheel.
The absolute best bargain in my opinion requires teaching yourself how to re-lace a wheel, which is not all that hard. There are some very helpful videos on U tube leading you through the process.
Here's how I get a good coaster brake wheel on the cheap. I buy a new wheel master from bikeworldusa, take it apart and paint the rim (best would be to send it off for powder coating). Dump the Histop hub. The bearings are small and internal parts are not of real good quality. Find an older wheel with a Bendix hub. When you open one up you can see great machining, quality metal and big ball bearings. You'll need to drill out the spoke holes in the hub to accept the larger 12 gauge spokes, but this only takes a few minutes. Lace it up and you have a stout wheel that looks great and has good stopping power with a hub you can trust.
A little more trouble, but you can also use original balloon tire wheels from a 50's or earlier cruiser, drill out the spoke holes to accept 12 gauge nipples, lace in 12 gauge spokes (I buy the front wheel master and then lace it 4 cross for either a rear coaster brake hub or a front wheel hub with drum brake. It is as cheap to buy the whole wheel master wheel as it is to locate and purchase the spokes alone. My experience anyway.
So, best bargain is wheel master front wheel... powder coat rim... lace four cross to take up the extra length of the spokes (10 5/8" if I remember right) to a 70mm Husky or salvaged moped front drum brake or a Bendix rear coaster brake. You end up with a stout wheel, no rusting chrome, and good quality hubs at a bargain basement price. More effort is involved, but your end result is right up there in custom quality.
I'm no expert with this stuff and laced my first of many wheels this past spring. Now I'd rather build my own wheel than buy a ready made one, especially since I can build two or three for what a new Husky would cost me (that is if I use old moped hubs or Bendix coaster brake hubs).
SB
This seems like a pretty good deal to me if you're into building your own wheels...
BICYCLE SPOKES 10-5/8" 11-GAUGE WITH NIPPLES: Husky Bicycle Sports & Recreation
-Kirk
BICYCLE SPOKES 10-5/8" 11-GAUGE WITH NIPPLES: Husky Bicycle Sports & Recreation
-Kirk
