Cranbrook Pre-Build Mockup and Advice

GoldenMotor.com

EliCash

New Member
Feb 21, 2011
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USA
Not sure if this should be here, or in the classic/board tracker forum, but...

Hi everyone. I'm new here, and very new to this motor bicycle scene. Just starting to learn about motor bicycling and how popular it is among home-builders. I had seen the Derringer cycles and the Imperial Cycles that were being sold for ridiculous prices years ago, but never thought to go and make my own. Then I just yesterday stumbled across this forum which is an amazing resource.

So I'm thinking of building my first motor bicycle. I love the classic look of the old style motor bicycles and would like to go with that style. I also want to build this thing on a budget as it's my first and I just want a taste for it.

Seeing that the Huffy Cranbrook is such a cheap complete bike, I figured I'd use that one as my base. I've been messing around in photoshop and have come up with this (colors will be different):


What do you think?

Some questions I have that I hope you may be able to answer:

The engine kit I'd like to use is the BGF engine kit. I've read varying reviews that people have posted regarding mounting this kit to this frame. Is it a relatively easy mounting process? And since the Huffy is a coaster brake bike, will there be any issues with installation on the rear wheel?

The tank is an Imperial Cycles tank, so I'm assuming it should install pretty easily, no? What kind of hardware is required to mount a tank like this to the frame of the bicycle?

And finally, the setback seatpost.... Can't figure out where to get one of these that will take a saddle with standard rails on the bottom. And I don't know how I could make one myself. Any tips?

Again, I'm new to all of this so it's all a learning process, and I appreciate any advice you might be able to share.

Thanks!
 
Last edited:

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Jan 8, 2008
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up north now
Hi. These engine kits are relatively easy to mount up...especially on a Cranboob. The rear coaster brake will require some mods, like bending the arm slightly and you may also possibly have to grind down the dust cap a bit- see "Dust cap mods" in the Classic posts forum here.

BGF has mixed reviews as to their service and "warranty" but other than that, they are the same as just about any in-frame kit.

Someone else will have to help with the seatpost question, I've never used one like that.

Welocme to the forum
 

EliCash

New Member
Feb 21, 2011
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USA
Thanks so much for the information. I've read that some people remove the dust cap entirely? Is that not wise?
 

walander

New Member
Aug 27, 2010
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I have done alot of crapbrooks, I use the grubee kits, but they are all pretty much the same, motor is not to hard to mount, have to make a custome motor mount for the front mount because the down tube on the cranboob is to fat, I make my mounts out of exaustpipe clamps, pretty simple, but please, dont do the old "drill through the frame" mounting bit, you will die, trust me. Rear wheel can be a bit tricky, Instead of sanding down the dust cap, I milled out the sprocket a bit to fit over the cap, but be careful doing that, if you dont get it exactly round again, it will wobble. wobble= death, remember that. I didnt have to do any mods to my brake arm after fitting the sprocket over the cap.
Also, make sure to regrease the wheel bearings, I have got some crapboobs that have little to no grease on the bearings, remember greese= good, no grease = Death, remember that.
two more things you will have issues with over time.
1: Use lock tight on the peddles, unlike "real" bikes, the crannys peddles just screw into the crank arm, this will wiggle wout over time untill you put your big foot down to peddle it and SNAP, it comes out, ripping the threads out with it and sending you into a ditch, broken peddle= death.
2: the seat will fail, realy, within less then 10 miles, you will bust the seat, I dont care how tiny your butt is, it will break the springs, or the bolts holding the springs, getting a spring enima while going 30mph is no fun, you will also crash and die, spring enima= death, remember that.
 

EliCash

New Member
Feb 21, 2011
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USA
Okay..... so obviously the bike needs a bit of cleaning up before it won't kill me. I'm pretty familiar with working on bicycles so that should be okay.

I wasn't planning on drilling into the frame. I read on some kits that they require you to drill into the frame.... and I thought, that cannot be good for the integrity of the frame. The kit I'm looking at comes with this though:


and it states in broken english that the engine comes with: "U-Clamp bigger frame adapter ( no drill hole on the bike frame needed) (if bigger mount do not need U-clamp)"

So will I not have to drill the frame if it comes with that? I guess it doesn't seem too hard to make my own mount either. Is the exhaust pipe clamp a pretty simple modification?

Not sure really what you mean when you say the pedals just screw into the crank arms though.... On any "real" bike I've been on, the pedals screw onto the cranks... just with reverse threading on one side.

So the issue with the dust cap is that it sticks out too much for the wheel sprocket to mount onto the hub? Is that right? So by making the dust cap thinner, it sets it in more and the sprocket can rest flush?

Thanks for the info.
 

darkhawk22

New Member
Aug 17, 2010
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Acworth, GA
I have the tank from Imperial Cycles and they ship it with the cap, petcock, and mounting adapter. The adapter snaps over your top bar and is secured with a small screw. Then you put the tank over it and put the bolts through. I added in some rubber gasket material on the back to help prevent vibration. It's a great little tank and holds a little over 3/4 gallon. I have an older AMF frame so i'm not sure about the one you are talking about. My engine came from zoom bicycles. Good luck with the build!