Starting problem-weird

Hi,
I have a BGF engine on my bike and have been through the break in period, switched spark plug due to it fouling out in break in period with a NGK 3 prong and changed my mix to 32:1 but soon will be going to 25:1. The bike was running fine but now it seems to be having a hard time starting. I pedal up to speed and drop the clutch and the back wheel skids for a little ways and then the engine starts but bogs down so i have to quickly pull the clutch back in and rev the engine. After I do that it is fine but I dont think I should have to do that.

Does anyone know what could be causing this and what I need to do to fix it. It also seems to help if I have the choke half way to start it.

Thanks

BarelyAWake said:

Sounds like yer fuel/air mix may be a tiny bit off, have ya checked the plug's coloration?

Still, it sounds close to being fine from what you've described so if yer plug is a nice tan/coffee color or even a dark chocolate I'd leave it be.

Tire skid: keep pedalin' - compression isa good thing.
Oil mix: 32:1 is favored by most that are runnin' a good non-synthetic, 25:1 might be a lil heavy.
NGK: 3 prong? Sweet - but may be overkill, NGK B6HS seems to be the plug of choice tho the iridium one is becoming popular.
Choke: a lil choke to start a cold engine is normal for a well tuned motor, most of these kit carbs run so rich as to need no choke at all... check the plugs color - you may be a lil lean.


What you've described is pretty much the normal starting procedure for my schwinn (stock NT carb), 'cept I use a squirt frm the primer instead of the choke - so if other than that everythin's good and it runs well I'd be happy w/it - these lil engines so sensitive to air density and temp changes you can drive yerself nuts tryin' to get it "perfect" all the time...

don't ask how I know

Click to expand...

Right I understand that the whole compression thing but I dont think that I should have to pull the clutch back in and rev the engine up to keep it running. Once I do that and get it going it does run fine though. I just thought that it was a lil odd that the clutch has to pulled back in like that. It just recently started doing that so i dont know what it could be. I did notice that when the clutch is let out the bike rolls freely for about 2-3 inches and I thought that it was supposed to be completely locked. I tried adjusting the flower nut on the clutch but that did not help.

Ok I knew that it would be adding more oil but a guy i talked to that works on mopeds and 2stroke dirt bikes and stuff like that had told me that 32:1 didnt seem right and he would take back to around 25:1 so thats where that was coming from. As far as the engine having to warm up, that makes perfect sense to me but i just thought it was odd as the bike did not do this up until recently and I have rode the bike quite a bit.

Thank you for the advice! I guess I will just leave it as it is until something messes up lol.

Another question that I have that isnt really related at all is that when I am at WOT the bike seems to fall off on the power for a few seconds and then picks back up. I read on another thread that this could b something to do with the needle in the carb not being tapered enough. Have yall heard of anything like this. And if so what should I do to fix it. That thread mentioned sanding down one end a little but would it be easier to just buy a different needle. What would you recommend?

Below is a link to the other thread about sanding down the carb needle:
http://motorbicycling.com/f34/quick-fix-my-fuel-mix-m-6730.html?highlight=BGF

Thank you in advance for your input

Ok thanks, but the WOT throttle problem has occurred every since the first time I took it to WOT.