Stiff Clutch Pin

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panheadrider

New Member
Jun 22, 2010
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Peoria, Illinois
This is my first post about trouble shooting. I have found previous threads that helped me along the way of installing my 66cc skyhawk engine on my schwinn cruiser, but I hit this one snag that has baffled me. The clutch pin behind the cover (left side) is stiff as heck! I adjusted the flower nut on the right side and it didn't soften the clutch pin up. The ball berring is still behind the clutch pin and the clutch is working, but only if I have the cover on and torque on the clutch lever with a wrench. There is no way the cable will be able to pull the lever. The cable would definatly snap or pull through.

I'm wondering if I can lube something or grease somthing up to fix this. I hope that I do not have to pull apart the brand new engine I just ordered. Oh, and I even smacked the pin a few times with a plastic coated hammer to se if it would soften up...no such luck.

Any help would be great!!!
 
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panheadrider

New Member
Jun 22, 2010
6
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0
Peoria, Illinois
I found a thread that explained exactly that and I tried it, but I didnt have any luck. I smacked that pin pretty fregg'n hard a couple of times and tapped around the flower nut and didn't have any luck. I can try it again when I get off of work tonight, but I have a fealling I will not get any results.

The clutch is actually functional, but very stiff so I'm not sure if I should concider that stuck or stiff. Any other suggestions???
 
Venice Motor Bikes

Venice Motor Bikes

Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
Mar 20, 2008
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Los Angeles, CA.
Don't start taking your clutch apart!!! Many clutches are hard to pull, but I've never had one so bad that it broke a cable. Just ride the bike & the cluch will loosen up over time.
BikeGuyJoe has the ultimate signature... "If it ain't broke & you mess with it long enough, it will be!"
Those are words to live by!!! You don't even know for sure if the cable will break? & your already wanting to tear apart a brand new engine??? Just ride it first. ;)
 
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panheadrider

New Member
Jun 22, 2010
6
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0
Peoria, Illinois
I hadn't planned on forcing anything. I am hesitant to pull the clutch completely apart, but I have never started one of these and the clutch is other wise always in the engaged position so I suppose I will start peddeling with the clutch already engaged???
I am 100% sure the cable will pull through if it doesn't break first and I would like to avoid pulling anything apart if at all possible.

It makes sense to get it started and hopefully things will losten up a little. I like that Idea best.
 
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panheadrider

New Member
Jun 22, 2010
6
0
0
Peoria, Illinois
I got it running last night, but the clutch is still stiff as heck and I had to reach down and push the lever with my hand just for a short trial run so I could be sure everything else was working properly. Thanks Joe, I will try what you have suggested.

Thanks again to everyone
 
2door

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
Almost without exception every newcomer to this hobby underestimates the amount of pressure it takes to disengage the clutch and the ability of the clutch cable and hand lever to do the job. You will NEVER be able to push that pin in by hand. Rapping on it with a hammer is a suggestion we offer to someone with sticking clutch friction pads, not to free up a stiff clutch. There are things you can do to reduce the amount of pressure needed at the hand lever however. Start with a well lubricated cable. Remove it from the housing and coat it with light oil and dribble some oil into the housing before reassembling. Make sure there are no sharp bends or kinks in the clutch cable. Don't secure it to the frame tightly and route it in such a way as to eliminate friction when pulled. Assure you have the cable installed correctly with little to no slack from the end of the cable to the clutch actuator arm on the engine. Do not listen to the advice of allowing some slack at that point. If you have installed the small spring on the end of the cable remove and discard it. It serves no useful purpose except to increase the pull pressure. Leave the big spring; its a heat shield.
There is a simple modification that can be done to the clutch actuator cam and that pin you're concerned with that will dramatically reduce the pressure required to disengage the clutch. PM me for details.
By all means try some of these suggestions before you start tearing a perfectly good engine apart or adjusting flower nuts. Heed the advice of Bike Guy Joe and Venice Motor Bikes.
Tom
 
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