Can't get new dax motor to fire-2 stroke

Hello,

Bought a Little Evil 1 Kit from Dax. Spent a lot of time making sure it is installed correctly.
The motor will not fire.
We have spark. A nice blue spark. The spark plug is a new NGK, replaced the NGK that came with the kit.
The magneto is new.
The kill switch is disconnected.
The carburetor is cleaned and the float is working fine. Took the carburetor apart and cleaned it out. Not that it needed it.
It is getting air. Made sure that the muffler is not clogged. When the pedals are turned with the spark plug out you can see a mist coming out of the hole. Not so much a mist but you can tell that it is not just air coming out.
Thought the motor might be flooded. Took out the spark plug and turned the bike upside down. Turned the motor over using the pedals so that any excess fuel would come out. Drained the fuel tank beforehand.
Even used starter fluid. Not even a hint at starting.
The conclusion I have come to is that the timing is off or there is an air leak. Everything else has been eliminated.
I have this nagging feeling that I am missing something obvious.
I know that I am this close to riding the bike. I made sure that the chain line is perfect. Have replaced both wheels with good sturdy wheels. Am using BMX caliper brakes. Made the coaster brake into a free coaster. I have spent hours putting this bike together and am not going to give up easily. I have enjoyed the challenge of getting it right. I know that Dax makes quality motors and am finally reaching out for help.
Do you have any ideas?

Thanks,

Mike

crassius said:

first 2 things I look at is the plug nice & wet, does the carb slide make a click at bottom?

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The plug is not noticeably wet. Carb does not click. The bowl is full of fuel.

2door said:

Instead of repeating a lot of advice I'll suggest you take a look at the first 'sticky' thread in this section. It covers most everything about getting an engine to run, offers things to check and ways to check them.

Since you've confirmed ignition, let's rule that out. Next would be fuel flow from the tank to the carburetor. Is the float bowl full?

Next would be compression. Have you torqued the cylinder head? 120 to 140 inch pounds is recommended.

Did you by any chance remove the magneto rotor (magnet) for any reason? If so you might have installed it backwards.

Spark plug gap? .024 to .028 is a good starting point.

Let us know what you find after reading this thread> http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=35090

Tom

Click to expand...

Defective CDI..testing All readings are approximate.
Use Ohm Meter High Scale About 200-K
Positive lead on BLUE wire and Negative lead on BLACK wire
infinite (no activity) Yes


Positive lead on BLACK wire and Negative lead on BLUE wire.
130-150 K ohms 146.7 OHMs

Positive lead on Spark Plug wire and negative lead on BLUE wire.
135-155K ohms--176.3ohms
Switch to Low Scale 20K
Measure between Spark Plug wire and Black lead. 2.5 - 2.7 K ohms--12.67ohms


Didn't test the magneto because there is not a white wire, only black and blue.

Torqued the head bolts to 11ft lbs.

Agreen said:

Fuel, air, spark, compression, and timing. You have the first three, let's see how the other 2 are doing!

How hard is it to crank the engine with the pedals? If I pick up on the seat (tire off the ground), I almost have to jump on a pedal to kick it over.

If the magnet is off by 180, you'll get nothing. With the magnet rotor horizontal (mushroom ends on the left and right) the keyway should be at the 1 o'clock position.

I also have heard of (never seen it) the magnet rotor being reverse polarity. That means North was supposed to be South and vise versa.

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Took the magneto out and made sure the key was in the 1 Oclock position. The pedals cannot be cranked by hand with the spark plug in and it is hard to crank it over with the pedal and the rear tire off the ground. Jumping on it would do it.

Took the bike to a mechanic and they got it running. Thanks to all of you for your help.

The Mechanic didn't speak English to well but what I could tell is that the clutch needed to be adjusted and something about the chain tensioner. Anyway it's running now and I'm in the process of breaking the engine in. Went for s 10 miler. The left front nut on the head was loose because there was a leak from the head and base in the same spots. Snugged the nut down to 11.5 lb ft and am now headed back out for another shake down ride.

The cylinder base gasket is ripped and that was why the base was leaking. The head leak disappeared after the bolts were returned to the correct torque spec. 11.5 ft lbs. I took the head and cylinder off to check the inside of the motor out a couple of weeks ago and must of torn it then.

Lol.. Glad I like to tinker. It's never ending. My Tanaka just ran and ran and never gave me a bit of trouble. Too bad tanaka doesn't make mb engines(in frame)

Crassius,

Using the permatex--is it as thick as the gasket? will there be any danger of the piston hitting the head? will it raise the compression?

crassius said:

I would use it to fill the crack - otherwise, there are two common types of base gasket, one is very thin and can be left out when using permatex, the other is very fat and may cause a change in port timing if left out.

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Used permatex to seal the crack. Holy crap what a difference. This motor really goes.

The motor was 4 stroking and had no power,before the leak was sealed.

I ordered a gasket and will put it on when it arrives. Until then I'll ride it with the permatex.

I also used some heavy duty 2 stroke oil for my Dolmar chainsaw, at 25:1--Dax wrote 25:1 only on the clutch cover- and it splooges everywhere. This was when the motor was 4 stroking with the air leak.

I changed the fuel to regular 2 stroke oil and sealed the air leak and the splooge stopped, mostly.

I'll have to test it with the heavy duty oil once this tank is gone to see how bad the air leak affected the splooging.

Not sure using the heavy duty oil is a good thing as it is designed to be used in engines that rev a lot higher than the CG. (The Dolmar revs to 13,500)

Now I'm rambling....Lol.

I was really discouraged thinking the motor was a mistake is it produced no power. What a roller coaster ride.

jerrywelz said:

what was wrong with it? this happened to me before, i accidentally ran my carb without a jet in it.

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The mechanic didn't speak too much English but said something about the clutch, chain tensioner and the motor. But not really sure what he was getting at.

It's nice to get the bike fixed but wish I could have learned what was wrong and how to repair it myself.