It only has one screw on it. How do I tune it? It's the stick one on a RAW 80cx motor. I heard something about a needle setting in the carb. What do I do there?
How do I tune this wierd carb?
- Thread starter Sheriff John
- Start date
if you unscrew the top of the carb you'll find the black slide and the gold needle, spring, etc.
the needle has 5 slots in it and a circlip. most california riders run it at the second slot from the top. be careful you don't lose the clip if you have to move it. the cilp setting controls the mixture, towards the top runs leaner, move it down it runs richer.
you'll need to check your plug's color to find the best spot. be careful removing the plug immediately after riding. best to let it cool down so the plug doesn't pull the soft aluminum threads outta the head.
idle adjustment is simple. factory setting is 3.5 turns out, meaning, screw it all the way in till it stops (you don't have to force it tight, just screw it in till it hits.)
then unscrew it 3.5 turns.
with the bike running, you can adjust the idle a little to get it where it sounds right.
that's pretty much all the tuning you can do with the stock carb.
the needle has 5 slots in it and a circlip. most california riders run it at the second slot from the top. be careful you don't lose the clip if you have to move it. the cilp setting controls the mixture, towards the top runs leaner, move it down it runs richer.
you'll need to check your plug's color to find the best spot. be careful removing the plug immediately after riding. best to let it cool down so the plug doesn't pull the soft aluminum threads outta the head.
idle adjustment is simple. factory setting is 3.5 turns out, meaning, screw it all the way in till it stops (you don't have to force it tight, just screw it in till it hits.)
then unscrew it 3.5 turns.
with the bike running, you can adjust the idle a little to get it where it sounds right.
that's pretty much all the tuning you can do with the stock carb.
Hey Sheriff, it's the needle with the c-clip on it in the slide of the carb. You carefully unscrew the top of the carb, pull the slide out, pop the needle out and raise or lower the clip on the needle. Then re-install.
also, the slide has a slot down one side that matches up with a tiny pin inside the carb. make sure you line these up. the slide should drop all the way into the carb nice and easy. don't try to force it. if it's not going in, it's not lined up.
whats up sheriff, its Ocgopedsport on GPN, welcome to the forum. You have some good advice above^
I found I need to disconnect the throttle cable from the grip to give more slac. Cable came out of slide pretty easy, putting tight spring back in slide, not so much.
HAND TIGHTEN top of carb, fortunately my WFO sticking throttle smoothed itself out eventually.
HAND TIGHTEN top of carb, fortunately my WFO sticking throttle smoothed itself out eventually.
Also put some grease on the treads so they don't seize on you.
The other thing you can do to adjust the lean/rich condition is re-jet the carb. It uses 5mm dellorto jets.
The other thing you can do to adjust the lean/rich condition is re-jet the carb. It uses 5mm dellorto jets.
Hello, Sheriff. If you have the NT carb, like I think you do, you may also want to take a look at the That'sDax website. He has pictures there, among the instructions, of how these things go together. If you familiarize yourself with the look and function of these carburators, you'll come to see how easy they are to work with, and work on.
I believe I also saw other pictorial breakdowns out there. Taking a look at the pictures helped me a lot.
I like the NTs. Once you get the hang of them, they're really easy to tune. And they're simple and primitive enough in function that there's not a lot that can go wrong with 'em. What little can go wrong is ridiculously easy to fix. And we've got these great gentlemen a couple posts back that can tell you all about 'em. I learned some of what I know just from being here.
I believe I also saw other pictorial breakdowns out there. Taking a look at the pictures helped me a lot.
I like the NTs. Once you get the hang of them, they're really easy to tune. And they're simple and primitive enough in function that there's not a lot that can go wrong with 'em. What little can go wrong is ridiculously easy to fix. And we've got these great gentlemen a couple posts back that can tell you all about 'em. I learned some of what I know just from being here.
