That rear sprocket does look weird to me, Is that something on the outside of the sprocket, cause there aint nothing that goes there except bolt heads. Looks like a painted over rubber OR??????? whatever
please help!! I wanna buy this bike&engine tommrrow !!
- Thread starter mikeab13
- Start date
Like I said, THATS a clutch arm, BUT I noticed it came out without taking the cover off. I'm pretty sure that means yer missing the bucking bar and bearing.
The clutch will not operate without it.
fatdaddy.
Re: pleas help me change thread title an look at my used engine
fatdaddy.
Not a bad vid, BUT it didn't show the bearing for the bucking bar. And if ya don't have it the bucking bar is gonna get chewed up. A lot of times its stuck inside but ya cant count on it. He really needs to spend a day at my shop with me or at KC's or someone like that to get him off to the right start.
fatdaddy.
Hey everyone. So I was told the clutch arm is not broken. I might have an engine that the pin is glued into the arm holding it into place. So I opened the part that the arm meets the chain an their is nothing...... Is this normal? Check out pics.
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I recall that very old kits had the sprocket retaining rings for both sides rather than just the back, this may be old enough to be one of those, but it has seen many miles, so I'd say the sprocket is OK. A new petcock, new fuel filter, new air filter, some cleaning and adjusting and you may be good to go,
Always hard to tell from pics, but nothing else looks worse than just being filthy.
You'll need to learn small things like which is your clutch & which is your throttle, how to start it & how to ride it.
Always hard to tell from pics, but nothing else looks worse than just being filthy.
You'll need to learn small things like which is your clutch & which is your throttle, how to start it & how to ride it.
Also I think the carb is missing which one should I get CNS? Also I just realized a piece of the frame is missing for the 3rd screw to cover the little sprocket connected to chain. Is this bike still rideable??
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that pic you posted while I was posting looks good except that I think you dropped the bucking bar (and maybe the bearing) when you opened the cover - look on the floor
when you turn that arm, you'll find it only goes in when pointed one way because of a hidden locking pin inside the cover
when you turn that arm, you'll find it only goes in when pointed one way because of a hidden locking pin inside the cover
Your carb has been visible in several of your pics including the one this post came from. With that being said, stay away -- stay away from the CNS carb! It is definitely not for a newbie!
Good luck in your endeavours --- just be patient and you'll learn a lot!
Crassius I have it over a huge white tarp. An 2doors told me to look for the bearing an pin. Nothing. So does this mean big problems or can I buy these? I texted this guy an said wtf!! You said the fuel line was only thing missing an now I find out theirs no carb. The back tired does not spin. The clutch arm is missing pin an bearing!!!!! His response is friend owed him money so his friend drove it to his house an it's been sitting in garage for 3 months. Well the whole thing is covered in a layer of thick oil sand mixture. Thank god he emptied the gas tank but it does have rust in it. To be honest I wanted something to tinker with, but this seems like a little much.
Xseler. Your right lol. Its the air filter that's missing which is an easy fix. Thank you for clearing that up for me.
FATDADDY: it looks to me like nylon that was somehow molded to be a spacer. Here's some pics.
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The 'rag joint' looks to be assembled wrong. The rubber discs should sandwich the spokes instead of one of them being on the outside of the rear sprocket. The clip on the masterlink is also backwards (which is a very small issue considering everything else).
You may want to post more pics of your bike -- there seems to be several areas of 'concern'......
You may want to post more pics of your bike -- there seems to be several areas of 'concern'......
MORE IMPORTANT, what's the other side look like? The rag joint needs to be assembled properly to insure proper operation. I don't think that nylon thingy is hurting anything, I also don't think its helping anything. It looks like you have a flat sprocket rather than the more common dished sprocket. No biggie. they both work the same. Try to get a pic of the other side of the sprocket where it attaches to the spokes. WE'll make sure that is right then work our way up the rest of the bike.
fatdaddy.
Xseler on way. An thanks for checking into help me out. Fatdaddy 2door an you have been a huge help! Took magneto cover off. Looks lik brand new seal. No gas or oil which I read on this forum is a good thing. But it looks like the copper wire on the spool is wrapped with like tape?
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Nice deal on the bike for sure ... I've read thru the posts and it wont take much to get you up and running... and you're in good hands listening to fat daddy and 2door... they wont steer you wrong.
The mag coil looks as it should and you can test it with an ohmmeter, just check that it has somewhere between 300 and 500 ohms when measuring across the blue and black wires, if it has a white wire, this wire is preferred not to be used but some builders use this for the kill switch. Best to just wire the kill switch to the black and blue wires if its not wired that way already.
You can check for spark by removing the plug and spinning the engine while holding the plug so its touching the engine, you can spin the crank either by pedaling or with a 14mm socket on a cordless drill, just make sure the clutch is not engaged if using the drill method.. and make sure the engine turns freely by turning it by the mag with your fingers with the plug out, it should turn fairly easily, once this is confirmed its safe to spin with a drill. Don't try to start it with a drill from there tho as it can strip the nut that holds the magnet in place... but with the plug out that's an easy to check for spark.
The mag coil looks as it should and you can test it with an ohmmeter, just check that it has somewhere between 300 and 500 ohms when measuring across the blue and black wires, if it has a white wire, this wire is preferred not to be used but some builders use this for the kill switch. Best to just wire the kill switch to the black and blue wires if its not wired that way already.
You can check for spark by removing the plug and spinning the engine while holding the plug so its touching the engine, you can spin the crank either by pedaling or with a 14mm socket on a cordless drill, just make sure the clutch is not engaged if using the drill method.. and make sure the engine turns freely by turning it by the mag with your fingers with the plug out, it should turn fairly easily, once this is confirmed its safe to spin with a drill. Don't try to start it with a drill from there tho as it can strip the nut that holds the magnet in place... but with the plug out that's an easy to check for spark.
I saw they already answered that yours is assembled incorrectly but its easy to correct this... the metal 3 piece ring goes inside, then the 2 rubber rings go on either side of the spokes, then the sprocket bolts to the outer rubber ring. Then comes the fun part of setting it up so it turns straight and true... not hard to do but can be a little tedious the first time.
When setting the rag joint you'll be tightening and loosening the bolts that mount the sprocket until the side to side runout is as little as possible... less than 1/8" is acceptable, but its not too hard to get it under 1/16".... the straighter you can get it the better tho, if there's too much side to side wobble it can throw the chain.
