Serious engine problem

GoldenMotor.com

Chaz

Well-Known Member
Jun 3, 2012
1,004
72
48
Vancouver, British Columbia
If you're trying to upload direct to the forum and it doesn't work maybe try youtube and post a link here.

Is it possible you're overheating and getting detonation?
 

El Bandito

Member
Jun 14, 2015
57
0
6
Benicia, California
Update # I don't remember. Back again eveybody, I'm here yo to report that Big Bertha is working again. One of my dad's friends who's a welder and also a mechanic and along with his son, helped me to fix the clutch problem. What we did was saw the stripped clutch screw and slightly sawing the clutch arm too. We removed the bad part of the clutch cable and got an allen screw to holdthe rest of the clutch cable that's still good. There is a little bit of clutch cable sticking out (about or around 2 mm) and a little slack but she works again! The pin ( I guess that's what it's called) that rotates the gear whoch rotates the motor chain is very loud and squeaky. There is a slight problem with the fuel line that goes to the motor. It goes on but it is moving up from the carb. I'm also kind of concern with the clutch arm because, it loose and movable and with Captain Zeldacoon's, it doesn't move at all. I will still post the videos of the bike problem before it got fixed to my YouTube channel soon(just need to figure out how to do that). If anyone has red grease or grease to make the pin stop squeaking or knows where I can get some, please let me know. El Bandito riding off (Get it? Instead of writing off, riding off. I know, silly joke.)
 

Chaz

Well-Known Member
Jun 3, 2012
1,004
72
48
Vancouver, British Columbia
Bandito, good to hear your bike is mobile again. I'm not sure what "pin" you are referring to. Could it be the bucking bar?

Anyway, all you need is some wheel bearing grease. I've not heard of red grease but I'm guessing it's from a manufacturer that colour codes grease for different applications?

In a pinch you could use vaseline but it would only be temporary.

For the fuel line at the carb you can use just about anything to wrap around the fuel line so it grabs the inlet on the carb. A piece of wire or a small zip tie. If you use wire, like a heavier guage copper wire, it doesn't have to be on too tight, just snug enough to keep the fuel line in place. And if it"s wire then go around the inlet twice. You don't want it so tight that it starts cutting into the fuel line.
 

El Bandito

Member
Jun 14, 2015
57
0
6
Benicia, California
Today is valentine's day and I don't like this day because of bad memories, getting laid off from work (2 years ago though I have a different job today) and other things. Also, I now have 3 problems maybe 4(I think the 4th problem is related to the 1st and 2nd problem and I think all these problems are related to each other) 2 of which have happened in the past.

1. The long screw that holds the cover when I drilled out the bad screws with my first problem is stuck and there is a visible gap and I am unable to loosen or tighten it.

2. Clutch problem again. half the time when I slow down to a stop and pull the clutch to go into neutral, I will either get a good pull,a bad pull or too much slack( pull the clutch down and almost not go into neutral at all) and I have to pull the brakes immediately slow down.

3. Throttle problem. I don't even know what's wrong with this problem, 20 minutes ago I'm riding and the clutch gives me a problem. After luckily getting out of neutral I give her light to mid throttle and I get 1/4 power, concerned I give full throttle and I get the same amount of power as I would get from a mid throttle. In other words I'm getting half power of what I should be getting. So I basically I pull full throttle( if it was working normally I would be relining it) and get normal power.

4. clutch arm. the clutch arm is loose and when I pull the clutch to go into neutral, the arm moves and sometimes(about 50-59% of the time) gets stuck and stays pulled in even though I released the clutch lever.

4 1/2.(I believe this problem is related to clutch and clutch arm) Clutch lever. When I pull the lever to initiate clutch, the clutch like I said earlier will be either good, bad or too much slack. Underneath the clutch lever is a spring to keep it from wobbling(which basically ultra loose and won't tighten at all) doesn't work at all. and so when I get the bad pull, I will literally feel the clutch just give out half pull and barely go into neutral. too much slack is just scary. I pull the lever and there's no resistance at all. It just falls down instantly. It's like closing your hand but with nothing there. I'm scared, confused and stressed out.

Please help. I will show pics.
 
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Chaz

Well-Known Member
Jun 3, 2012
1,004
72
48
Vancouver, British Columbia
Ok Bandito, here's some thoughts in point form cause I'm a lazy typer and my hands are cold from riding.

number 1

I think that cover needs to be flush so that the clutch arm and bucking bar work properly. You'll need to get that off and re-attach so that it is flush. The way it is now is part of the clutch problem. You can try some wd40 on those threads and let it sit overnight. You can also apply heat from a torch or heat gun or even one of those turbo windproof lighters. My local dollar store has them for 2.50

You can also try gently tapping the exposed end of the screw with a hammer while you turn the screw with a driver.

number 2 and 4

The clutch arm is loose because the cover mentioned above is not flush. Also loose because the clutch cable outer casing is too short. That casing should be close to being fixed at the clutch hand lever point and the terminal point on the motor. If your cable is long enough then fix this issue.

The problem if it's not set up properly is going to give you that hit and miss effect because the outer cable casing is moving around and sometimes catching on the hand lever adjuster and sometimes not.

more later
 

Chaz

Well-Known Member
Jun 3, 2012
1,004
72
48
Vancouver, British Columbia
After seeing the videos I think that your main problem is that the clutch cable casing is flopping around. It needs to be set at both ends nice and solid. Then you can do your clutch adjustments. There's a good tutorial in here for that.

You should be able to unscrew the clutch handle lever and re-position the return spring, or bend it to make it work again. It looks a bit floppy in there so you could put a washer or two in there to take up space.


Will need more info to help with your engine performance issue.
 

El Bandito

Member
Jun 14, 2015
57
0
6
Benicia, California
Huevos dias everyone! After monthes of trying to fix my engine, I decided to get a new kit from a trusted website called bekits.com. So for the last 3 days, I worked my butt off putting on the new kit with help from captain z and my dad; and now that it's on, there has been no problems to report. I do have one question though, how do you prevent the clutch from getting stuck in place/ get it to back into unengaged postion? Pictures and maybe a video will be sook to follow
 

Chaz

Well-Known Member
Jun 3, 2012
1,004
72
48
Vancouver, British Columbia
I've heard good things about the Bekits. Those clutch springs are pretty strong so I suspect it's something about the way you have it set up. Go through the adjustment procedure and see if that does it. Also make sure your cable is not kinked or binding somewhere. It's an easy cable to lube so you should do that as well.
 

El Bandito

Member
Jun 14, 2015
57
0
6
Benicia, California
Arrriba! I'm back in business (have been since the last update to be honest). Since then, I have gotten myself a car( a classic car), got ill with pneumonia, family passed away and went through a life changing love relationship experience that I finally got over with which is why I haven't been talking lately. It's my first car and it's also a project car. But, I am starting to ride again! Also to the new people who are getting into this, WEAR A HELMET AND HAVE YOUR TOOLS ON YOU AT ALL TIMES! I always wear a helmet when I ride but here's a story of why you should.
Back in mid December, I was riding downtown at night with a full tank, it was raining. I was going almost full speed trying to do a wheelie (learned how to do a wheelie by accident a couple of weeks earlier). I knew where each stop was and how much brake pressure was needed to stop properly. At the 3rd or 4th stop sign, I managed to pop a wheelie, but stupid me was going to fast and I was practically already at the stop sign. So in an attempt to stop, I applied full pressure on both brakes and I did stop, but not how I wanted to stop. Big Bertha Mk.2 went sideways and slipped out of me hands, I on the other hand, fell on my left side at around 27 mph, with my left leg caught under the bike sliding for 10 feet in asphalt with a 10 pound backpack full of tools. There was a car behind me and thank god he stopped or it would have been worse. After I stood up, I picked her up and limped away. People asked if I was alright. So, I wore a mask and stated that I was alright. A nice woman offered me a ride home in her car but, sadly after attempting to repair my bike and trying to fit the bike in, I had to decline. It's about 9 pm or so and I'm thinking how stupid I am, while doing a diagnostics check and decide to open up the gearbox. Nothing wrong there. So I find out that both of my brakes came loose, lost a spring crew for the front brake and after 30 minutes of readjustment I figure out the reason why the bike won't start up was electrical. The spark plug came loose and the connectors came undone. Then after I start it up, 2 other problems arise: 1. I don't have fuel. The rubber fuselage fell off. 2. After test riding it for a good 20 min, the idle was extremely high. I didn't know what to do. I tried lowering the idle but nothing would change. Then I found out that where the carb was located was barely even hanging on. After tightening that up, she was back in business.
After I got home, I checked out how badly I was. nothing too bad, the gears cut into my left leg not to badly, just the first layer of skin. My ass was bruised and cut open a little(rip back pocket). Totally fine besides the headache I got.
Moral of story, don't be stupid like me and don't do wheelies at night in the rain.

Last week, I discovered that my rear brakes wouldn't spring back when pulled on and the front wouldn't close properly. I got a replacement screw and found out the that the front engine mount was restricting the brake line. As of right now, everything is working a ok.
The next thing i'm thinking of getting is a better brake stand since the one mine, which does work, is meant for a smaller bike. Hope to see you guys soon.
 
Feb 2, 2017
156
6
18
California
I don't know how people do it with coaster brakes with motorized bicycle, not saying you in this case..... but you got me thinking about brakes. Yes, don't ever half-ass on your brake setup, do it right and it will save your life. With that said, still to this day I have no clue how to correctly tighten brake pads, I have them squished soo close together and it's not ideal at all, works yes, but not ideal. I effin' hate bicycle brakes!!!! Tried over and over and over and still can't get it right.

BTW, the lady that offered you a ride after your accident..... was she cute? :)