Turnigy 10.0

Lungcookie · Jul 24, 2015

If you have to ask what kind of a battery is that? Just turn around now.
I say this for your own protection.

Looks like more alien tech is filtering down to us civilians.
They are making 16.0...if you can get it.

Black=Turnigy 5.0
Green=Turnigy 10.0

6/5.0=2/10.0 same capacity

...and no more wiring mess!

on sale HK west coast.

In the pics the single extra black/5.0 in pics2/3/4 is just for size comparison.

wheelbender6 · Jul 24, 2015

Any idea of the price of the 10.0? I didn't see them on hobbyking.

Lungcookie · Jul 25, 2015

Here yah go.
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=64439

East coast store has them in stock now too!

Full list.
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__1387__85__Batteries_Accessories-Multirotor_Lipoly.html

cannonball2 · Jul 26, 2015

Looks pretty good LC. They only come off the charger at 50.4v however. I guess I got used to the 13s Li-ion coming off at 54.6 which adds a bit more duration.
Im running 3) 4s 5ah packs that are the same voltage as 2) 6s and the initial charge drops off pretty fast to around 48v. The advantage is at 50.4v the control cut voltage is exactly right. But 10ah! WOW!

Im gonna order some!

Heres a pic of the 3) 4s 5ah sitting in place of the 10lb Li-ion pack on my old Pie/ Diamond back. What a difference! 8lbs lighter just about as fast but with less range of course. Still very usable in an area where usage is short runs(10/15mi with miserly use). The 10ah should be perfect!

I might suggest you use the wireless series connectors for the XT90 plugs on the packs it really is a simple/compact way to link them. That's whats on this bike.

Lungcookie · Jul 26, 2015

I had the xt90's off in about 10min of getting the packs.
The wireless connectors look like the way to go, it is easy to mess up how I have it...too many plugs.

A lot of time I use the LiLo setting on my charger...charges to 4.1v/cell in stead of the 4.2v/cell LiPo setting.
In theory they last longer if you don't over charge or over dis-charge them 3.5v/cell.
All this is doing is changing the cut off voltage level, really has no bearing on the type of cell chemistry, only voltage.
So basically you are charging to 90%.

I dream of a battery that's the size off one of these 10.0 but a 50v+/10ah..
Seems like I saw some 4s/10.0 on HK too.

Here is a LifePo4 48v/10ah vs. the 10.0 lipo.

cannonball2 · Jul 26, 2015

I would buy three of these in a heartbeat if they were in stock. Using 4s will allow me to use two on the 24v bike and three in the 48v bike. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...pacity_4S_16000mAh_Multi_Rotor_Lipo_Pack.html

kevyleven007 · Jul 26, 2015

I was reading about these somewhere else but couldn't find them on HK's webstore. Its kind of hard to make sense of their inventory sometimes. Those look real impressive that's the way to go if you can make sense of all the conections and charging.

wheelbender6 · Jul 26, 2015

So one of the Turnigy 10.0 packs could power a 24V motor kit at 10ah?

kevyleven007 · Jul 26, 2015

wheelbender6 said:
So one of the Turnigy 10.0 packs could power a 24V motor kit at 10ah?

I could be wrong but I think 4s lipo means 14.8v? so, you need more than one run in series.

cannonball2 · Jul 27, 2015

Yep. It would take two for the 24v bike and three for the 48v bike. These packs are 16.8v off the charger meaning the voltage is is perfect for the 48v bike and overvolted(33.6v) for the 24v bike

I love overvolted bikes!

HK is selling the hard pack 4s 5ah packs I have been running for $19+. I bought 5. Am converting my wifes 36v SLA bike to them. The bike will loose about 35lbs! I will do the charging though.

Lungcookie · Jul 27, 2015

Looks like the 16.0 are 'in transit' to east and west coast stores.

yup, 4s is a 4 cell battery.
6s=6cell
A 24v battery is generally about 26v.

These 6s/10.0 come off the charger at 25.2v.
You might be able to use 1 6s/10.0 for a 24v system but it would be weaker and I don't know if you would hit the LVC on the controller.

I could try 1 6s/10.0 on 24v setting on my Pie if anyone wants and try to give you a idea of the feel.

Have another 4s/10.0 in the mail for me!
Going for some 16s action.
Whoo Hoo!

I find it almost easier to think of these in total cell count.
3 4cell=12cell
2 6cell=12cell

12cell @ 4.2v (max charge) =50.4v
16cell @ 4.2v=67.2v

18cell @ 4.2v=75.6v
Or use the LiLo setting to squeak under, say for example a 75v controller limit.
18cell @ 4.1v(LiLo setting)=73.8v

cannonball2 · Aug 1, 2015

So LC how are the 10ah doing? Whats the charge time? My chargers time out at 120min, bet it will take at least two cycles to charge one of those puppies at 5amp.

It would appear that one 6s would run a 24v system just fine, The LVC on my controller is 21.5v, that's a pretty good span for normal cruising especially with 10ah. Its much peppier on 33v for sure though.

The seller of my 250w geared hub motor indicates it will run just fine on 48v and sells a controller for it.(poor gears?) I bought a 36v controller, which will handle 48v just fine it just wont LVC at the proper time. I will surely give it a try! The common 48v controller on my 9C ran constantly on 63v off the charger with the li-ion pack. Never blew the caps. That's the only thing I don't like about the Pie controller it locks out at 60v.

Lungcookie · Aug 1, 2015

Working great!
The first couple rides they felt weak but after 5-6 charges they are fine.

I don't generally run these below 3.8v/cell.
Between 3.82 and 3.88 is more common. When I charge to 4.2v/cell(LiPo).
So it really only takes about 75mins or so, to balance charge at 5a.
2x at a time helps too.
The first balance charge took around 1h45mins.
Batteries have been delivered at 3.9v/cell.

You should not have to balance every charge, I usually go about 5-7, then a balance for the gee'wiz of it. Unless some cell go's south.

Making my charger fans work now, the fans never come on with the 4s/5.0 packs.

Just picked up the 4s today, crazy how small these are.
This 67v pack will be smaller than my old 50v pack.
Probably lighter too...will have to weigh it.
I like 50v for just pedaling so don't think I will use this 67v version all the time, unless I get up in the hills or don't feel like pedaling...will have to see.
Then again I may love it and need more...lol.

I will add a pic of the 4s/10.0 vs. 4s/5.0.
It has been 100degrees here the last 2 days...I just hide out in the cool garage.

cannonball2 · Aug 1, 2015

Wow that's crazy weather for your area!

I just got back from riding the Schwinn step thru. Its still got the stock 24v system. I converted my wifes SLA bike to lipo(36v). She didn't ride the pack long enough today to get the voltage low enough for storage so I threw the pack in the Schwinn to ride it down. WOW! I have a watt meter on this bike which accurately keeps up with usage. The pack was around 46v(15.3/cell) when I started. The little bike was pretty fast! Saw 23mph(normal is around 19). The controller limits the amperage to 17.5amps. Acceleration was still pretty brisk. I rode the perimeter road around the island, nearly 4 miles at around 18mph. It ultimately consumed 1.35ah. If the curve is pretty linear that's 12+ miles on around 4ah. Pretty good! The cruise amperage was much less on the 46v(and faster) than on 24v. I was at 44.5v at the end, 3.7/cell and the batteries not much above ambient. Perfect.

The take away is just about any motor/controller combo will handle much higher than rated voltage. The 24/36/48 controllers I have had have 60v caps. Nothing seems to suffer if you know when to cut the voltage. Cant wait to try it on a full charge(50.4v)

This is all research for the Ebike Lite build. Should be a lot of fun.

Lungcookie · Aug 4, 2015

First ride with the 16s.
NICE!

30+mph max
1000+watts max
8.0 miles dirt
3.48 ah used
ending v62.4
3.92v/cell

cooking the 9fet
Mac10t still running cool

3 days of that 100 heat sux, cooled down to 85 and that feel nice.
Normally 85 is about to hot for me.
Was about 15% humidity so that helps.

Just ran the MP3/Fito on the same ride,(minus the .4 in front of the house) at 12s/50v.
7.6 miles
4.00ah used
3.88v/cell
MP3 was fairly warm, ambient was 70f.
Guess because the control is in the hub it will allways be hotter than an external control.
Was using 20-25 amps to get not quite the same feel as the MAC10t at 16a.
I was going about 6 miles per hour slower average with the MP3.
No suspension was really beating me up.

cannonball2 · Aug 8, 2015

Not to jack the thread LC but got any insights into hooking up the CA3? I found the link to Grin, but wanted your input also.
Looks like mainly throttle, brake and power? Wont be using the aux or temp probe.

Lungcookie · Aug 8, 2015

CB2 bumped over to your 'Lite' thread.

kevyleven007 · Aug 11, 2015

I was wondering, can you use an r/c brushless ESC controller with a geared hub motor or direct drive hub motor? You see, I don't really know a lot about r/c stuff but I know some people have used R/c motors for DIY ebikes. Any body tried 24s on a gear hub? Seems to me that the cool thing about using lipos like you guys are doing is you can go off the chain with some crazy overclocking. R/c controller probably wouldn't work I bet. Have to use something like this probably http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONTROLLER-...T-BIG-POWER-/201297945074?hash=item2ede4ae1f2 Cost too much forget it

cannonball2 · Aug 12, 2015

Go to the Ebike Lite thread in hub motors. Lungcookie posted a link about over volting the 9C motors, very informative.

Also search the Sphere on using R/C controllers. Seems I remember threads on what it took to convert. These controllers are capable of some very high amperages, but not sure they will do higher voltages. They can also be more expensive. I have used them for years but not in a modded form. 24s is only 88.8v sounds easily doable. Modded 9Cs are running 120v.

LC will probably have more insight on this.

Lungcookie · Aug 12, 2015

I don't have any experience with RC controls on bikes.
I thought they were for external motors not hubs.

Like here...
https://www.electricbike.com/astro/
and...
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=64609

I think for hi-power hub you are better off with a direct drive hub like the MXUS3000 or a Cromotor.

I don't know if the geared motors like to run hi volts without some mods, metal gears and some form of cooling.
Sounds like the clutch and gears get cooked.

Just from what I read, I have not tried any big DD motor...yet.

Turnigy 10.0

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