My GX35 bogs under load/high throttle. I changed the fuel filter, cleaned the air filter, changed the oil with the proper amount. I even changed the gas cap in case it wasn't venting properly. Nothing has helped. Under load (at 3/4 or higher throttle), the engine bogs. If I lift the rear tire off the ground, the motor will run and rev to the max with zero problem. Not sure what to try??
GX35 bogging
- Thread starter Ggradtech
- Start date
I'm no expert, but I'd check the gearing calculator on this to start. Likely, someone who knows will chime in shortly.
Please keep us informed, and good luck!
Please keep us informed, and good luck!
If you are a large person and live where's there's steep hills. You'll need a shift kit. These small engines tend to have a max torque around 4500-5000 rpm and a max HP around 6750-7250 rpm.
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Cleaned the carb completely. Changed gas cap, cleaned air filter, cleaned spark arrest or, changed engine oil. Took it out this morning and it ran perfect until the last 5 minutes. Started to bog again. Is it possible the ignition coil is the culprit?
Ggradtech- That's basically a duplicate of your first post. Did you do those things again?
Have you determined that your gearing is appropriate? Have you determined that you do not need a shift kit? You have not answered either of the responses that you've gotten here.
Do you have a reason to believe that the coil is faulty? Are there other symptoms that you have not mentioned?
Using high-octane fuel has been known to cause bogging. Your replacement (second?) gas cap may also be faulty.
Have you determined that your gearing is appropriate? Have you determined that you do not need a shift kit? You have not answered either of the responses that you've gotten here.
Do you have a reason to believe that the coil is faulty? Are there other symptoms that you have not mentioned?
Using high-octane fuel has been known to cause bogging. Your replacement (second?) gas cap may also be faulty.
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That motor is just to small to do what you want it to do. It simply does not have the torque or horsepower to haul a full grown man around on a bicycle. Sell it, and get yourself a larger motor.
I have a Honda Gx35 got it in a kit from GEBE , after first 2hrs of break in,it had started bogging at 3/4 rpm sent it back to GEBE to look at about ($100.00 shipping cost) they couldn't find anything wrong said I may had bad gas or put too much oil in it (that wasn't the case )got engine back it ran good for about 10 hrs before bogging started again for about 30 minutes, If I feathered the throttle I could get it to mostly not start bogging down . Then all sudden it would run good again. I changed the gas ,cleaned tank ,replaced fuel lines and filter. I still have the bogging problem off and on contacted GEBE asked what to do and any suggestions I have not received a reply it's been 6 plus weeks. My son purchased the GEBE kit at same time and he is having same bogging problems off and on . Did you get your GX35 bogging problem resolved yet ? Any suggestions . I am about to give up ,and find a authorized Honda repair shop to look at it.
Well...........
Mine was a pain in the a..! I changed oil (to ensure proper amount), changed fuel filter (it looked SLIGHTLY dirty) swapped the fuel cap, and even put new gas in. Still bogged. I then tried removing the spark arrestor and air filter and it still bogged. I then completely took carb apart. Followed a YouTube video. It was really easy. Cleaned every part/passage with carb cleaner. I also noticed that (when doing the carb cleaning) that the fuel lines are really tucked and crimped to allow easy access to the priming bulb. I untethered them. Mine seems to be good now. I'm not sure if it's truly fixed, but seems ok so far. It's been about 100 miles without any issues. I didn't like the way the gas lines were smashed behind the holding clip. Just looked like a potential problem. Try the gas lines FIRST and let me /us know if that helps.
P.S. One small note. When following the YouTube video, the guy shows how he sprays the passages. Mine would not spray as shown in the video. I gently pried/probed the passage and a TINY, TINY black washer or some type of seal came out. I don't even know if I could ever reinstall it if I wanted to. The carb cleaner now "sprayed" freely without the washer in there. It would not spray with it installed initially though. Not sure why it wasn't even shown in the video, but it seemed like a potential problem to me.
Mine was a pain in the a..! I changed oil (to ensure proper amount), changed fuel filter (it looked SLIGHTLY dirty) swapped the fuel cap, and even put new gas in. Still bogged. I then tried removing the spark arrestor and air filter and it still bogged. I then completely took carb apart. Followed a YouTube video. It was really easy. Cleaned every part/passage with carb cleaner. I also noticed that (when doing the carb cleaning) that the fuel lines are really tucked and crimped to allow easy access to the priming bulb. I untethered them. Mine seems to be good now. I'm not sure if it's truly fixed, but seems ok so far. It's been about 100 miles without any issues. I didn't like the way the gas lines were smashed behind the holding clip. Just looked like a potential problem. Try the gas lines FIRST and let me /us know if that helps.
P.S. One small note. When following the YouTube video, the guy shows how he sprays the passages. Mine would not spray as shown in the video. I gently pried/probed the passage and a TINY, TINY black washer or some type of seal came out. I don't even know if I could ever reinstall it if I wanted to. The carb cleaner now "sprayed" freely without the washer in there. It would not spray with it installed initially though. Not sure why it wasn't even shown in the video, but it seemed like a potential problem to me.
Intermittent bogging under load tells me some kind of fuel starvation or a vacuum leak somewhere. If it works fine then bogs but can work fine sometimes it could very well be a carburetion issue or a kinked fuel line, it could also be a blown gasket between the head and intake or carb and intake, or if it has a plastic intake it could have a crack in it that can't be seen easily, but can drive someone nuts trying to figure out what's wrong. Have you tried spraying carb cleaner on the intake when it's bogging to see if things get better while the carb cleaner is being sprayed on the intake?
I'm thinking it's either air getting into the engine somewhere besides the carb or there's something keeping the fuel from getting into the carb, or something in the carb not letting the fuel get in or get out. Does the carb have a float? And does it move freely every time? Does the needle and seat valve have a little spring on the needle that may be keeping it closed when it should be open?
I would be checking out everything in the carb that handles fuel or air as well as well.
Another thing to look at is see if it's overheating, some of these smaller engines can be sensative to things like cooling shrouds or dusty/dirty cylinder fins, too much paint on the cylinder fins, etc... if it's missing any cooling shrouds or air deflectors... or any restriction anywhere where cooling air can get into or out of the cooling system.
Look at the head bolts and see if they're torqued down properly as they may be ok until the engine warms up then become very boggy if compression is lost or reduced either from too much heat causing a small warpage, or even a loose spark plug could cause the bogging, so can carbon buildup on the valves not allowing them to completely close, and in a worst case scenario, worn out rings or a scratched cylinder.
Anything that can cause a loss of compression can make the engine really boggy so if everything else looks good, it could be a loss of compression.
I'm thinking it's either air getting into the engine somewhere besides the carb or there's something keeping the fuel from getting into the carb, or something in the carb not letting the fuel get in or get out. Does the carb have a float? And does it move freely every time? Does the needle and seat valve have a little spring on the needle that may be keeping it closed when it should be open?
I would be checking out everything in the carb that handles fuel or air as well as well.
Another thing to look at is see if it's overheating, some of these smaller engines can be sensative to things like cooling shrouds or dusty/dirty cylinder fins, too much paint on the cylinder fins, etc... if it's missing any cooling shrouds or air deflectors... or any restriction anywhere where cooling air can get into or out of the cooling system.
Look at the head bolts and see if they're torqued down properly as they may be ok until the engine warms up then become very boggy if compression is lost or reduced either from too much heat causing a small warpage, or even a loose spark plug could cause the bogging, so can carbon buildup on the valves not allowing them to completely close, and in a worst case scenario, worn out rings or a scratched cylinder.
Anything that can cause a loss of compression can make the engine really boggy so if everything else looks good, it could be a loss of compression.
