Handlebar vibration solution!
- Thread starter toker_ace
- Start date
i fill all my handlebars and frames with expanding foam, the kind that comes in a can from lowes, it works great.
good idea on the foam. i would say the expanding. nice part with that is the stuff is bassically weightless. i am going to try it. i have used greatstuff for other things and like it. here is what it looks like
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That foam is right up there with: duct tape, bailing wire and ty-raps! But not sure if it will help in this situation.
I just isolate my engines from the frame with rubber.
Why not eliminate the source instead of trying to band-aid a problem?
Why not eliminate the source instead of trying to band-aid a problem?
I tried "rubber" mounts for my MB early on during it's prototype phase, but as the engine still wasn't broken in and was 4stroking a lot I found that although the mounts helped reduce the vibration I felt - it accented the engine's shaking and contributed to a fuel frothing problem and making it run even worse.
No - I wasn't using old bike tires for mounts or anything, I had "discovered" some nice polyurethane transmission racing mounts in the "other" pile at work and made bushings out of the cut down stock.
Only 1/8" thick I didn't think it would cause any problems, but man the motor ran a LOT better w/o them... I suppose now that I've gotten it running sweet I could put them back, but the vibration isn't really bothering me anyway what with the comfy gel seat I now have etc.
Just a thought
No - I wasn't using old bike tires for mounts or anything, I had "discovered" some nice polyurethane transmission racing mounts in the "other" pile at work and made bushings out of the cut down stock.
Only 1/8" thick I didn't think it would cause any problems, but man the motor ran a LOT better w/o them... I suppose now that I've gotten it running sweet I could put them back, but the vibration isn't really bothering me anyway what with the comfy gel seat I now have etc.
Just a thought
A flat piece of soft rubber isn't the answer.
That allows too much play for the engine to dance.
It needs to be done round bushing style, so as to capture
the engine tightly, but provide an isolation between the motor and
frame metal. Too much play and you might as well suspend your engine
in your frame with rubber bands.
That allows too much play for the engine to dance.
It needs to be done round bushing style, so as to capture
the engine tightly, but provide an isolation between the motor and
frame metal. Too much play and you might as well suspend your engine
in your frame with rubber bands.
Check out these motor mounts- Motorbike Parts - Vintage Motorbikes
They are super expensive, but I would love to have a set along with that chain tensioner next to them.
They are super expensive, but I would love to have a set along with that chain tensioner next to them.
How did that silicone caulk work out? Was there an appreciable difference? I have noticed after long rides a tingling in my hands from the vibration, which on both my Americans seems minor, but after long rides is still a factor. This is not only uncomfortable but I wonder at the long term effect for riders who put a lot of miles on daily, say a hefty commute to and from work. In my part of the world of northern Minnesota there was a time when loggers developed something called "white hand" after long hours day after day running a chain saw. Back then there was more vibration coming through the handle. Over time that breaks down the capillaries in the hands so that there is a blood circulation problem, sometimes pretty bad. The skin tone becomes more white due to the lack of blood and they are always cold from lack of warm blood circulating throughout the hand. My thinking is that the vibration coming through our handlebars could be more than just a minor discomfort, but eventually a major ailment. So while some may think this is no big deal, maybe for long riders it is. Brett, what you described with the rubber bushings sounds similar to the rubber bushings on more modern chainsaws. I know that with your quality builds if your engines walked around you wouldn't use them and I believe you when you say they reduce vibrations. I seem to remember seeing a picture of your mounts, but would appreciate looking again. Do you have a link? Thanks,
Silverbear
Silverbear
my vibration problums went away after 150 or so miles. once the engine broke in, no vibration at all. although i switched to foam grips.(popular back in the 80's) that helped alot.
I used an old inner tube to wrap the downtubes where my motor and my tank mount up, still get the vibration, but it's not as bad.... I'm studying on trying that foam in the handlebar, kind of like a dampener as described above.....
-Screws
having a slick tyre on the front might also help a bit in reducing vibration while cruising.. previously used knobby tyres, now I use slicks for a smoother ride on the road
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Take your bars to a gunsmith and have them filled with lead shot. Pour some epoxy in each end to seal and you are golden.
