Trouble with the back sprocket lining up
- Thread starter Johnnyblaze
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Welcome to the forum Johnnyblaze,
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Would you please re-post your question so we may help you.
You will need to make a few post and become a active member before you can post any links. Sorry about that, we do this to help fight spam.
Would you please re-post your question so we may help you.
I am having trouble with the back sprocket. It doesn't fit over the wheel hub. What kinds of methods are used to enlarge the hole in the sprocket?
I use a step bit. A Dremel can be used also. Depending on how much material needs to be removed.....you can round file it....just be sure to keep it even (centered).
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
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http://motorbicycling.com/f30/coaster-brake-dust-cap-mod-1841.html
If you trim the dust cover just right it will do something, and something is better then nothing.
If you trim the dust cover just right it will do something, and something is better then nothing.
.................if there is a slight wobble in the sprocket that goes on the rear wheel, does it get better or worse after you ride for a while
Is bad idea to get on and ride if there is any wobble at all. At best it will damage parts. At worst, the rider. You really want no wobble at all! Once snugged down, loosen the low parts of the sprocket. Over tightening the high spots can lead to spoke damage and failure.
If your drive chain jumps it can lock up your rear wheel and stop you dead. Ruff on the wheel not to mention what the unexpected skidding does to you.
Sounds like it is not completely true- I had to readjust mine more than once to get it to spin straight and true before I was comfortable with riding....wanted to be sure it wouldn't cause my chain to jump off.
You did the right thing. Listen to what Dan said, he speaks the truth. Sprocket concentricity can not be overstressed. A wobbling sprocket can and usually will cause a chain to jump off the sprocket. Proper installation of the rear sprocket is probably the most time consuming part of a motor kit install. Many experienced builders rely on a screw gun with an adjustable clutch to get the bolts tightened uniformly. Set the clutch on a low torque value and run all sprocket bolts down to the same torque. Have the rear wheel elevated so it can spin freely and rotate it watching the sprocket from the sides as well as from the top. Lateral as well as vertical wobble can easily be seen and corrected using this method. Some of us use small diameter wire as a guide at the hub. Insert the wire between the sprocket and hub at 3 or 4 places. This will give you uniform spacing and assure the sprocket is centered. As for side to side wobble you need to start with a wheel that is true and the spokes are correctly tightened. Begin by snugging the sprocket bolts, alternating from side to side and spinning the wheel after each tightening to assure you're not 'bolting in' a wobble. Keep tightening and checking until the lock washers are flattened then give each bolt a very small amount of extra torque. It is a tedious process but once done correctly should provide you with many miles of trouble free riding. Hope this lengthy explanation is helpful.
Tom
I think Mathen is right. A way I check with new builds is to "walk" the bike and just watch it spin. also, I am a kinda easy way out, back yard shade tree kind of builder, but use pretty much any thing to measure the distance between the spokes and the sprocket. A 1/2 and a few inches long, hobie/balsa wood block works great. Doing it this way, you can often get it perfect. I sit in front of the TV with the wheel on my lap. Take my time as it really has to be right. I mark the sprocket with a lead pencil with 1 threw 12 like a clock. Cleans off easily.
You really want this portion of you build as perfect as possible.
(LOL Tom, I had to go measure my balsa wood piece ((I thought it was 1/4)) But wut Tom said. Took me a while to measure. Read go below, smoke and truth be told, that is where the beer is. Snork and shhhh,)
You really want this portion of you build as perfect as possible.
(LOL Tom, I had to go measure my balsa wood piece ((I thought it was 1/4)) But wut Tom said. Took me a while to measure. Read go below, smoke and truth be told, that is where the beer is. Snork and shhhh,)
I watch a test pattern tape that I run in my vcr to the T.V, tittled "Alighnment and concentricity". Watching the pattern and simultaneuosly tightening the ring of bolts always gives excellent results. I've also found having the radio on helps.
I've fitted a 20mm. mikuni carb, but this didn't make much difference.
Cheers/happy motorbicycling
I've fitted a 20mm. mikuni carb, but this didn't make much difference.
Cheers/happy motorbicycling
