I have to shim my drive sprocket. Someone please tell me that this can be done and how to do it. I mounted the rear sprocket to the disc brake mount to prevent wobble but now there are chain alignment issues.
shimming drive sprocket
- Thread starter rameyjock69
- Start date
You have to shim it when you're mounted to disc brake rotor mount?
That sounds weird, usually you'd be wanting to bring it in closer to the spokes.
But, if you wanna get further away - you can use longer bolts, perfectly sized washers and definitely locktite.
That sounds weird, usually you'd be wanting to bring it in closer to the spokes.
But, if you wanna get further away - you can use longer bolts, perfectly sized washers and definitely locktite.
I used a tophat addapter that moves it in twards the spokes and keeps it true with no shims.Also they have sprockets with different offsets for the chain alinement.Check out kings sales on this page great parts.I also used the disk brake with this set up works well,look at my photos at my profile.
He mentioned that this is the DRIVE sprocket, not the rear driven sprocket. I believe he's referring to the small sprocket on the engine assembly. Correct me if I'm wrong. That would make sense though, as I'm guessing a disk brake mount would bring the sprocket further out.
To OP: Would it be possible to shift the entire wheel to the right a bit?
To OP: Would it be possible to shift the entire wheel to the right a bit?
That would make sense. I'm just really used to hearing people say drive sprocket for the rear wheel sprocket, so my mind auto corrects it.
Get a top hat adapter - you can choose one to be either 1/8" or 1/4" offset to fix alignment. That with a dished sprocket will set you straight.
I can answer that question though, as I'm on a disc hub too. You can't move the wheel - the hub is what's so far out. There is no reasonable way to do it.
Myself, I just use my tensioner to guide my 415 chain onto the sprocket and I don't go in reverse unless it's dire.
Get a top hat adapter - you can choose one to be either 1/8" or 1/4" offset to fix alignment. That with a dished sprocket will set you straight.
I can answer that question though, as I'm on a disc hub too. You can't move the wheel - the hub is what's so far out. There is no reasonable way to do it.
Myself, I just use my tensioner to guide my 415 chain onto the sprocket and I don't go in reverse unless it's dire.
Yes it is the drive sprocket on the motor itself. Is there no way to get a shim behind that sprocket...the chain alignment is not off by that much but I'd like to shim behind that gear on the motor to get the chain away from the tire as well. Need the magic answer that I've got so many times from this site? 
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Here's one way to do it. It requires some work but the sprocket can be moved to where it aligns with the engine.
Tom
Tom
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Could you just put washers between the axle and the left dropout? Seems to me that would be easy, cheap, and simple.
That's not going to do anything to solve alignment though - it'd work if you couldn't fit the driven sprocket, or if you had chain rubbing on the chainstay. He's got problems with the drive sprocket aligning with the driven sprocket.
2door has the best solution - I'm going to have to do one of those up myself.
2door has the best solution - I'm going to have to do one of those up myself.
With your frame can you weld motor mounts 1/16-1/8 over to the left?
I know that's not the cleanest fix but moving the 10t might get you to fare off the key and make it shear off
HAY MAYBE A SHIFT KIT!!!
I know that's not the cleanest fix but moving the 10t might get you to fare off the key and make it shear off
HAY MAYBE A SHIFT KIT!!!
I would think a shim would get the 10t to fare off the key and shear it-moving the hub and re-dishing the rime gets your chain strait BUT your tire will still be close to the chain - how close is the tire? maybe thinner tires or a shift kitYes it is the drive sprocket on the motor itself. Is there no way to get a shim behind that sprocket...the chain alignment is not off by that much but I'd like to shim behind that gear on the motor to get the chain away from the tire as well. Need the magic answer that I've got so many times from this site?
I gotta try the shift key!!!! Love it!! The chain is close to, but not hitting, the tire. Thanks again for all the info gang. You guys are awesome. I am talking about shimming the gear on the motor. Very important. I believe 2door you told me it wouldn't be easy if it could be done at all.
well, you must have found the way, as this post is almost a year old. but for any newbs reading this, YES-you can do it. it will garner maybe 1/8" width. remove the gear / cluthch arm cover, and use the black hardened puller tool supplied with the kit (looks like a threaded double nut thingy) to remove the 10t sprocket. it will be on there tight so get some leverage on it, and dont dent up your bearing wall behind the sprocket in the process.
now that its off, youll notice the half moon key in the spindle, remove this by picking at it. small flat head screwdriver or a dental style mechanics pick. once its removed you'll be able to slide 2 shims onto spindle. if you want more, youll have to notch the subsequent ones as they will be sitting where the stay-key is. once you've done your shimming, use vicesgrips to carefully holr the key over the channel, and a st of needle nose to press it in, and voila!! good luck!
