My third wreck due to "issues" with bike

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sentnl

New Member
Oct 13, 2014
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Colorado
So, I was riding along as happy as can be today. Then my bikes back tire completely seized, due to my tensioner (plastic wheel POS) coming apart completely. The tensioner is going in the trash and I'm going tpo just shorten the chain Heres where my issues get complicated. I now have a hole in the crankcase cover, about the size of a Quarter (coin) in diameter. I am unsure as to whether I have lost a piece now or not. Any help is gratefully accepted.
 

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MotoMagz

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2010
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Glad you r OK... Bolt that held small gear? . Yes if you need a tensioner do it on the opposite side of the bike.
 
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sentnl

New Member
Oct 13, 2014
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Colorado
The picture of the gears posted upside down. Its the crankcase side, not the clutch side. And the engine cannot be flipped around so, its impossible to put the drive chain/tensioner on the right side. So, I did lose a part then? Any assistance locating a picture of it and a site to purchase? If I can't find it at the local hardware store..bf.
 

Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
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That is the clutch side cover, the big gear and clutch plate with the flower nut are in the picture. Under the disc or plate are the clutch pads.
 
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crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
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when you get that bolt, be sure to patch or get new cover to keep road grit from destroying the gears in there
 

sentnl

New Member
Oct 13, 2014
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Colorado
Thank You Greg, Crassius, I intend to do some dremel work on the inside of the cover plate, to clean up the burrs etc. then sand around the hole on the outside and was thinking I might grind some tiny grooves and epoxy a quarter over the hole. I think that would give it a little character and solve the issue of an unwanted sight glass. haha. I believe I can get the Machine screw needed at the local hardware store. Greg, appreciate the correction and explanation, I am clueless on small engines. Clutch side not crankcase side :). And Mags was still off about the tensioner solution they gave. Happy Thanksgiving Everyone. :). mmm turkey....
 

crassius

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Sep 30, 2012
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POS chinese h/w - just checked size & I can't tell if it is 8x1.0 with interference thread, or if it is 8x0.9 thread

hope you don't have to carry your motor to the store to find a fit
 

redneck82

Member
May 25, 2014
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concord, nh
hey man, i had the same issue, the bolt coming loose on the crank... i ended up swaping the slotted bolt for a hex, put a piece of sheet metal over the hole... put it all together with jbweld... gave it a day to dry... put a coat of paint on it and it was good to go... not the sexiest thing ever, but it did the trick in a pinch... far as the tension wheel, i replaced it with an $11 idle sprocket from ebay and it solved the problem of the cheap ass wheels...
 

crassius

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Sep 30, 2012
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8x0.9 thread??? lol

On decent quality kits the bolt is 8mm 1.0
most likely, but with so few threads, my 0.9 thread gauge seems to fit it better than the 1.0 - not sure what factory they're from as I have 25 or 30 salvaged out of dead motors all in a jar on the shelf - perhaps they've stretched a bit
 

sentnl

New Member
Oct 13, 2014
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Colorado
Crassius, Thanks for the research. I had found it is 8x1.0. And anyone who wants to waste time to jab you for it well...its their time to waste. :) And Redneck, I'm just gonna shorten the chain and eliminate the tensioner.
 

Dan

Staff
May 25, 2008
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Just glad your OK!


Really interesting thread.

Epoxying a quarter is gonna look cool and definitely interesting. The knockout seal is brilliant. And at .38 cents!

Great ideas and this happens a lot. So gonna be of great use to lots of people. Especially where the threads have even a slight amount of grease left on em after tapping and on all engines. Bores a perfect little hole.

The quarter thing. One of the local bar enthusiasts is a mason by trade. The local watering hole has a brick sidewalk up to the front door. He epoxied 3 quarters and a silver dollar to the bricks. Just never gets old watching drunk folks trying to pick em up.

Really funny, when it ain't you.
 

sentnl

New Member
Oct 13, 2014
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Colorado
Dan,
Second paragraph, third sentence. Huh? Are you saying that the machine screw in this discussion works its way out when little or any grease is left in the receiving threads after the hole is tapped? Thats the best I can make out of that sentence. Please explain.
 

redneck82

Member
May 25, 2014
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concord, nh
from experience, yeah, that's pretty much what happens... i've personally started using red threadlock on them and cranking them right down tight... and like i said, i swap out the slotted screw bolt with a standard hex head
 

Dan

Staff
May 25, 2008
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Are you saying my English speaking not so typed correctly is understand difficult?

LOL, you should see my attempts at spelling before spellcheck.

Yes, that is what I am saying. Used to drive me insane with the set screws on 4 stroke shafts until I figured it out. But is universally the same with any tapped hole. When tapping, cutting fluid is used. It is very light and likes to hide & linger in the valleys.

The best method I have found to keep a bolt from wandering out (besides wiring) is WD40. Just clean it out. Works just fine and I rarely use loctite or the like but will put a dab of muffler sealer in if a tube is close by. Is cheaper and works with out making it difficult to remove later.

Not advice, just what I do.

==========================

I'm with ya, Redneck. Slotted any thing is just a pain and really dunno why, aside from ease of manufacture,there still is or are slotted head anything. Maybe some sort of adjustments to slow ya down. But other than that, just an annoyance.
 
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crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
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USA
I've not seen this and haven't thought about it much, but that shaft turns counterclockwise and *should* re-tighten that bolt as soon as it hits the cover unless the problem is due to something other than just greasy threads, shouldn't it?
 

Dan

Staff
May 25, 2008
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Can certainly see your logic, Crassius.
But have seen it more than a few times with CC turning, RH bolts.

And as pictured, does it with enough force to bore a hole. Quite nicely in plastic covers. Comes out looking like an access hole.

So dunno. Ya make a great point.
 
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SuperDave

Member
Sep 24, 2011
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Panama City Beach, Fl. USA
I think what is meant to put the tensioner on the pedal side is to shorten the drive chain to the shortest you can get away with, adjust the wheel to fit it just right, then use the tensioner on the pedal chain to take up any slack. If your dropouts are rearward open(axle slides in from behind), I'd recommend banjo bolts to center & lock in the axle. My Skyhawk GT2 frame is set up like that & I use banjo bolts on mine. If the dropouts are forwards open(axle slides in from below diagonally), you might try grinding a flat spot on the backside for the banjos to hold, but that may weaken the structural integrity that could lead to breakage on a pothole or hopping off a curb, leading yet to another crash, not to mention the death of the frame.

I've had the nut on the magneto come loose and back off, it dented the mag cover & litterally locked up my motor. I thought it seized on me. Lucky I was only riding slow at the time, at full throttle it may have busted the cover open or lock up the back tire at speed. This was before I used locktite blue on everything.