sturmey archer front dynamo debaucle?!

BTW - I'm glad ya liked the copper line to hide/protect the wiring & after seeing the pics of yer ride;


http://motorbicycling.com/f45/finally-here-she-boys-20704.html

(which looks freakin' sweet!), I had the thought that if you wanted you could use stainless automotive brake lines to do the same (stainless lookin' more appropriate w/yer chrome I think), but even steel ones could be painted... heck the stuff even comes in colors these days lol

Ya'd just need a bending/flaring kit, they can be cheap like this one: OTC 4503 - Stinger Fractional Double Flaring Tool Kit OTC-4503 OTC4503 OTC 4503 (I dunno about that retailer tho) - the cheapo won't like the stainless line much, but it'll work.

Just a thought

K, that's pretty similar to my light, it does rely on the housing as a ground so that may be the problem. The "clipped" black wire you've got there is for the positive lead & looks OK (provided ofc that's the positive wire). You can solder a negative connection directly to the triangle shaped spring that holds the bezel in as it makes contact with both bulb's housings (their negative) - that's what I did with mine and it works well.

You may experience some problems with the positive, that big brass dealie that only touches the positive on the bulbs when you close the light - make sure the reflector that the bulbs are in is straight and mebbe bend the brass tabs out a bit to get good contact...

Other than that it outa work jus' fine provided you've got 6v bulbs

If your facing it and the open ports are facing up, I'm pretty sure it's the right-hand port is the ground/negative & the left is positive - but double check that with yer multimeter jus' to be sure

...but with incandescent (not LEDs) that wouldn't matter BTW, but might as well do it right - it'd make it easier to use LEDs later.

Sweet, good ta hear ya got it all worked out

...I've still not replaced my burnt-out driving light w/the LED tho, I spaced it heh